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Fat bob ignition switch grounding to dash?

3K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  intogloryride 
#1 ·
Hi, I've been chasing what I believe to be a parasitic draw on my pan/shovel. In the process I noticed that when turned on it shows continuity from the battery cable to the dash. This doesn't seem right to me. It's an OEM Harley 6 post switch. Am I being crazy?

Also, can't find any amperage draw when turned off except for the generator that functions perfectly. What am I doing wrong?
 
#2 ·
To check for draw, I usually disco the positive terminal from the battery, and bridge the gap with the multimeter. Anything over 30mA or so means I left something on, or I got some tracin' to do...

You don't mention what cable is giving you continuity to the frame. I'll assume it's the hot side, so no, that does not sound right at all. If it is the neg side, that's fine, because the dash does indeed bolt to the frame, which is a ground.

I would start by pulling fuses/breakers one at a time to see which one causes that continuity to go away. That should at least get you started on a circuit.
 
#3 ·
Sorry, the hot lead from the positive terminal to the switch was showing continuity to the dash only when the switch was turned. Because the dash is attached to the frame, it would also show continuity to the frame ground.

Previous owner did the wiring and it's very very basic. I had followed the procedure described and the only circuit showing draw is the seperate lead from the CR Regulator to the positive battery terminal. There is currently only one circuit breaker on the main ignition switch circuit, which I wired in yesterday.

Thanks for the help!
 
#4 ·
By "CR Regulator" I will assume you mean voltage regulator. I am fairly certain that your reg should not be drawing any amperage.

Unplug the reg and see if that stops the draw.
 
#6 ·
Ive had several dash key switches go bad over the years. HD are without a doubt the only way to go. You can also check switch by checking it for shorts in different positions for ohms. Aftermarket switches just dont have that quality. Thats my opinion and i know 10,000 people have their own.
 
#7 ·
The oil lite or Neutral lite sockets are causing this...They are actually wired hot, with the key on..The neutral switch and the oil lite sender both apply ground to the socket to lite the lite.
Something is amis with one of those sockets.
 
#8 ·
you did NOT give any info on what it is your working on - EXCEPT it has a generator if it does than your issue is in the dash bulbs - but who knows you did not say what you have and if its totally stock and or it has a different dash two light not a 3 or what year you have all makes a difference

you need to explain to get a real answer
 
#9 ·
Working on a generator shovelhead in a straight leg frame, std cases. Like I said the PO did the wiring and it is very very basic. Lights and ignition off of the switch and a separate lead from the regulator to the battery, 1 ground wire from battery to frame, an auto advance points timer, and a pressure style brake switch.

No accessories, and no bulbs or wires connected in dash, so I don't think that is the issue.

Switch does not show continuity with itself when removed from the bike. As far as I can figure there is a wire grounding to the frame. Yet still the bike runs fine. Going to continue chasing wires tomorrow.

Thanks for the replys.
 
#12 ·
Govmule called it. The regulator must be shorting because the draw jumped up drastically since last checking, and is the only draw I could find.

Still not sure about the dash thing, no wires appear to be rubbing.

Is there any way to definitively test a Cycle Electric regulator or can I just assume its bad? I searched extensively and couldn't come up with a solid answer.
 
#13 ·
Govmule called it. The regulator must be shorting because the draw jumped up drastically since last checking, and is the only draw I could find.

Still not sure about the dash thing, no wires appear to be rubbing.

Is there any way to definitively test a Cycle Electric regulator or can I just assume its bad? I searched extensively and couldn't come up with a solid answer.
Hey-o! Even blind squirrels find acorns, my friend.

Why not call CE and see? They're super-cool; if anyone can tell you how to test it, they can! Worst come to worst, you buy a new reg; they're not really expensive.

Incidentally, it sounds like this is a stripped-down chopper. I heard something from an old fart once, and I have not forgotten it. I ate a few regs real quick on a bike, and the oldtimer asked me if I ran a headlight during the daytime. I was not, at the time, and said as much. His theory was that since the reg is then forced to shunt almost all of the 22, 32 (however many amps your stator makes) to ground, it works the shit out of the reg, and they fry. I started using my headlight, and I haven't put a reg on that bike since.

Food for thought.
 
#15 ·
It has been doing this since I bought the bike 6 months ago, it looks like its been a bad regulator the whole time. I generally always run a headlight, except for when the battery is low.

Cycle Electric confirmed that the regulator is bad, but miraculously it's date code had it squarely within the 2 year warranty period, so it's on it's way to Ohio. Fantastic customer service.

Thanks again for the help.
 
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