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Need help with my stroker shovel build

2K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  johnjzjz 
#1 ·
Hi! Haven't posted in a while. I'm balls deep into a stroker shovel project and just realized that my cylinders are too short. Where the heck can I buy stroker plates at? Did a few google searches but didn't find much... Here's what I'm working with.... S&s 4 3/4" wheels with 3 5/8" jugs = 98"! Only problem is my jugs are stock length not .200 over. Any help is apriciated, sorry I kinda suck at typing and my only computer acess is a iPhone . Dragon would be pissed! Ha! So I guess my two questions are where to buy stroker plates (or should I have a machine shop make them? Do I need to worry about the hole drilled in the cylinder skirt? And how thick should they be? Thank you! Dan Warner.
 
#2 ·
I'm in the planning stages of stroking my 45. After doing the research I've decided that I'm going with stroker pistons rather than having to monkey with plates, Valve covers, etc. Just seems cleaner and you won't be able to tell from the outside it's been stroked.
 
#3 ·
Have stroker plates made at machine shop .200" thick and yes you do need those holes. High grade aluminum or stainless works. Pay attention to case stud protrusion when nutting down cylinders. After warming engine a minute or so retorque base nuts as well as head bolts. Keep retorquing until theres no more movement. May take 3 times or may take 10.
 
#4 ·
to answer both questions - shovel stroker plates are availablke from S&S and will exactly fit the combo you have - you will need the numbers off the crank shaft for correct dating and size as well as the piston numbers you will be running - the directions also call for a brass pipe to be installed in the bottom of the oil drain of the barrel, so the return does not flood the lower piston rings causing it to smoak for no mechanical reason - this has to be done

45 question --- the first stroker kit the small one for a 45 allows a stroker piston to be used so you dont have intake issues and it keeps the stock look to the engine - its been a while but i think its a 856 CC kit and with a # 6 head and a dupe of the WLDR or THE WR cams works real well and lasts for street driving as well as easy starting - it is well known the fastest of the 45 strokers use a pop up piston ( over deck height - not a dome piston ) into the head area but it makes it ORNERY to drive in traffic - using the - 36 cylinders is fine but limits the cooling so 7.7 or 8 to one is about it for the flat head 45 motor -- just my take some may have a different experence -- jz
 
#5 ·
S&S has a stroker piston which will eliminate the need for stroker plates. This will save money on a new intake manifold [from S&S] as the port height will remain the same. As you know when you sit the jugs higher you will need longer int manifold.Stroker plates without changing out to longer studs is stretching it. It also adds another gasket surface into the mix . The whole top end is tighter to the crankcase without the plates as far as ripping out base studs etc. Don't braze the brass tubes into the cylinder. If the brazing comes loose it will stick up off the cyl wall and destroy the piston lower skirt. Just loctite as per S&S instruction. If you have stroker questions ask T&O as they make good flywheels too. { and sell stroker plates].
 
#7 ·
they the evos are not long enough and a different size - the very thin brass tube is the best deal for this app - once drilled and red loc tited they dont move and all they do is dirvert the oil to a lower location in the block
 
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