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Old 09-15-2019, 02:37 AM   #21
Thunderbird
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Default Re: Norton Model 99

what tires are they, can't get enough resolution to read.
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:26 AM   #22
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Default Re: Norton Model 99

In this case they are Duro. I usually use Dunlop or Avon on my Nortons, but I have had good luck with them in the past and the price is right.
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:22 PM   #23
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Default Re: Norton Model 99

The rear tire looks like a TT100 (I can't remember what the front Dunlop looks like).

Goldy do you ride your old bikes pretty hard? I wouldn't mind knowing about a cheapish tire that is also pretty good.
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Old 09-15-2019, 03:14 PM   #24
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I don't baby my machines (they are all old), but I don't ride 'em hard ether. A 6-9 hour day in the saddle is pretty standard for me (with a butt-break now and then to get the blood flowing), but most of that time is spent on those twisty-turny secondary roads. To be totally honest, I've never had the skill, or the cajones to ride like I was on the track. The rear tire is quite a different tread pattern from the TT100 (that's what I run on my Commando), but they are somewhat similar to the K70. For the sort of cruising around I do, they're just fine. Dunlop used to make a ribbed front tire with a similar pattern to this Duro. I've used Duro a lot over the past ten years or so, IMO they are pretty standard, as far as performance and longevity goes.
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:28 PM   #25
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That tinfoil trick really is amazing when you try it the first time, but I haven’t tried it with oil. I understand there is some sort of chemical reaction with the chrome as the ‘slurry’ builds up...come to think of it I probably read that in one of your previous threads.

Keep going, I have lots to learn.
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:51 PM   #26
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Default Re: Norton Model 99

I've used tin foil with Coca Cola - worked well enough - but not as well as these - brass brush is a good idea also
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Old 09-15-2019, 10:54 PM   #27
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Whatever "these" are, I can't see 'em. I shall file a grievance.
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Old 11-10-2019, 12:27 PM   #28
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Man, this forum used to be a real busy spot...I wonder why it seems to be getting 'sleepy'?
Anyhow, with Halloween in the rear view mirror, it's time to get going with the winter projects...so I have finally gotten started on the Norton again. Managed to bash out a set of fork shrouds and headlight mounts that are pretty hard to tell from the original equipment. It was good practice acetylene welding and brazing...fact is I think they are somewhat sturdier than the stock equipment. Also fabricated a new instrument bracket. Those old speedometers are only there to fill in the holes. New instruments are en route and that scabby old headlight will be replaced as well.
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Old 11-10-2019, 02:24 PM   #29
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Them certainly is some fine shrouds. Thanks for showing us them, and for resuming work on the Nortoon, and for sharing it with us. (Us, a.k.a. the Lonesome Few.)
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:11 PM   #30
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Oh frabjous day, I got the crankshaft back! Time to get busy again.
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:01 AM   #31
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Looking good. Keep going!
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Old 11-22-2019, 05:31 PM   #32
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This is a very cool project. I have never even seen one of these in person. My dad always talks about how he wants another one but keeps ending up with commandos.
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Old 12-01-2019, 04:32 PM   #33
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Made some pretty good progress this week...started by putting the flywheel back between the crank halves, giving it a really good cleaning up and finally slathering it with oil. I had to clean up the oil seal journal since it had been damaged by water, in the past I have had to repair these by machining the journal down to accept a sleeve and then machining the sleeve down to the original size again, but this time I got lucky: I only had to shave about 0.003" off to get a smooth surface this time, and since there is still plenty of stretch on the crank seal, I'm sure it will be fine. The connecting rods were cleaned and polished and I checked the clearance with Plastigauge before fitting them. The cases needed a lot of careful cleaning, as some of the lower passages had become completely clogged with aluminum oxide (more water related problems), but eventually I was satisfied with the results. After that I heated the cases in the BBQ to remove the old ball and roller bearings (they fell right out on the grill, YAY!!!), then a new set of Superblends were fitted. An end play of 0.005" was easily established with only one 0.010" shim. The breather plate and camshaft were slipped into place along with the crankshaft assembly. Following a light coat of Threebond on the mating surfaces the timing side case was slipped on over the whole lot and the cases were bolted together. Next will come the pistons and cylinders.
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Old 12-01-2019, 06:40 PM   #34
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I like the BBQ idea, I use the wife's oven and she always gets upset...BBQ would be better. Are you using the same pistons or were they to damaged?
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:23 PM   #35
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I'm just flaunting my ignorance here, to make everyone feel good about themselves because more knowledgeable than me; but in pic #4 in the post above, are we seeing the crank and flywheel as if from behind the engine? I mean: If the assembly were surrounded by all the bits and pieces that make a motorcycle, would we be looking at it as if (sort of) from the bike's back end, with the imaginary front forks, wheel, etc., on the crank assembly's far side?

The threads on both crankshaft ends look just a little bit smeared. Is that just an effect of the digital image, or are those threads rough? And if so, will they require a cleanup or will they do as is?
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:41 AM   #36
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looking tidy, out of interest what grade bearing did you use C?
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:53 AM   #37
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Default Re: Norton Model 99

To answer some questions:

No Stormin, the old pistons were totally shagged. Water got in there and seized everything up...shagged the cylinders too. I don't trust those old 'pop-top' pistons anyhow. Got a replacement set of nice Gandini pistons and rings.

Ratso, you're looking at what would be the back side of the crank with the timing side on the right and the drive side on the left. The threads are fine, you might be getting fooled by the oil I sprayed all over everything. I usually do that after cleaning in varsol to prevent corrosion...a real problem around these parts especially this time of year and in the spring.

Thunderbird, they are FAG bearings with what I think is indeed a 'C' class rating if I'm reading the numbers correctly. They were a common upgrade to the later Norton 750 twins after they had so much trouble with crank flex on the Combat engines.
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:27 PM   #38
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Does "pop top" = domed, with cutaways for valve clearance? Was the Atlas designed to run flattop pistons instead?

Do you happen to know, or to have a guess at, stock Atlas CR? Maybe 8.5 or 9.0:1? Thanks for your patience.
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Old 12-02-2019, 06:35 PM   #39
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Stock compression for the Atlas was only around 7.5 : 1.

Lol! No, the Norton twins generally used use flat top pistons...when I say 'pop-top' I literally mean the top can pop right off the piston under severe use. There is was a large cutaway in the old Norton pistons under the oil ring to allow oil scraped off the cylinder walls by the rings to return freely to the sump (I'll post a photo in the next update). I've seen it happen more than once and the results ain't pretty, or cheap to repair.
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Old 12-03-2019, 12:26 AM   #40
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Yessir, I'd like to see that photo whenever you feel like posting it.

Have you owned/run an Atlas in the past? Seems like I've heard a lot of whimpering about them being rather fierce shakers, but c. 7.5:1 sounds as if it could unfiercen things.

Pal of mine had a Mercury, a really very nice bike for all that it was chronically a mite shabby. He claimed, rightly or not, that it was one of those models introduced so as to use up the factory's superceded leftovers -- the 650SS engine, slimline FB frame, '50s/'60s mufflers, tanks, so on and so forth. Any truth to that, as far as you know? I believe it had been sold as a '69, which kind of supports my buddy's claim I think. Supernice bike to ride, leftovers or not.
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