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Old 09-16-2015, 02:15 AM   #61
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

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Originally Posted by Path Thirteen View Post
Hello Lester! Im doing the shield on the only part of the exhaust that reaches my leg, Maybe for aesthetics is better do a full shield, but im trying to keep the bike simple and clean so for me that small shield works!
Sorry Path I was unclear..... No need for full shield.... I meant to cut out the shield of a piece of pipe the same size you have now... just to get a curve on it following the exhaust pipe but bigger diameter. Yes aesthetics only.

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Old 09-16-2015, 08:16 PM   #62
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Looking real good. Though I think that extension off your brake pedal is going to give you trouble. More pictures.
Well, yes, i tested the bike on the floor and that hub was a piece of shit, also i didn't like the cable feel on the break, it feels like it squeezes but it nevers stops. so today i threw away that shitty hub and put another one i had, like the one i have on my other gilera in the front and it really stops. Check the pictures i'm about to upload!

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Sorry Path I was unclear..... No need for full shield.... I meant to cut out the shield of a piece of pipe the same size you have now... just to get a curve on it following the exhaust pipe but bigger diameter. Yes aesthetics only.

Lester
Allright Lester, I see what you say, if i have the time to do it before i have my deadline for drop things on the plater, ill do something like you say. For now on, as i went backwards with some things on the bike it may remain as it is now, funtional but not pretty haha. thanks for your comment man!
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:02 PM   #63
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

Well, today did a test rolling the bike with the rear brake and i wasn't happy at all, shitty brake power and the damn cable gave me the feel i had a bungee cord instead a steel cable, so i got rid of that damn russian hub and instead used a sachs (german) i had laying arround, i used this same hub on the front of my other gilera build and it stops and works fine, knowing this, and without will of fighting this other hub to make it brake decently, i started all over.
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Made a very short bent rod, cut some threads on the en for the adjuster, and on the lever side, instead of having this super long rod to pull the cable i used a shorter round axle where the rod pivots freely.
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Also made a two position end of travel for the lever on the rearsets.
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once i had the brakes finished i made on the lathe the wheel spacers.
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I need to put the other tire on the rear wheel as this one is tiny and makes the bike looks weird, theres a chainguard i have, thinking in fitting this maybe. whay do you guys think ? or maybe im going to make one in aluminum.
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Old 09-17-2015, 02:05 AM   #64
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

Looking sweet Path, great fab work. Are you going to machine and weld "caps" to the tube ends of your hard tail tubes? Or leave then as is. Regarding the heat shield, you can make it out of stainless and polish it youself.
Cant wait to see the tins done. Keep up the hard work.

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Old 09-20-2015, 03:05 PM   #65
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Well. Killed the damn girder fork. As it was bent and reinforced after the crash. But looked like shit so started to make one from scratch using the original yokes. Also moved the lower yoke a little to the back so i can correct the negative angle of the fork and use same rocker length.
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:26 PM   #66
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

Hubs painted, and polished. Ready to put new rims. I may use some aluminum rims to match all the other aluminum details
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Old 09-20-2015, 11:30 PM   #67
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

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Looking sweet Path, great fab work. Are you going to machine and weld "caps" to the tube ends of your hard tail tubes? Or leave then as is. Regarding the heat shield, you can make it out of stainless and polish it youself.
Cant wait to see the tins done. Keep up the hard work.

Lester
Hey lester, Yes im gonna cut the tubes and i think ill make a slant cut then make a "cap" to weld on it!
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Old 09-21-2015, 06:18 AM   #68
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

A scratch built girder, thats fuckin awsome!
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Old 09-21-2015, 06:41 PM   #69
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

Do you really like the rear fender thing?
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Old 09-21-2015, 06:53 PM   #70
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

You really need to revisit your rear brake linkage again. That thin, bent, push rod set up will fold like a weak poker hand when you really need it to work. Not a good design there. I'm liking most of what you're doing though.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:24 PM   #71
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

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You really need to revisit your rear brake linkage again. That thin, bent, push rod set up will fold like a weak poker hand when you really need it to work. Not a good design there.

I completely agree. Gussets or something. That's going to be like using a piece of spaghetti when you slam it hard in a panic stop. Your pushrod needs to be straight inline with the levers. Meaning they, the levers, need to be inline with eachother also.

I would make a secondary bracket and lever with a pivot on the other side of the tube where your foot peg mounts. Mirror your lever and mount, minus the peg and brake pedal.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:44 PM   #72
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

Connect the two with a bolt, a long one with a tube spacer and sandwich a new linkage rod thingy next to the inside lever. Run that straight back to the lever on the brake.

Or make a new setup where your pedal moves a lever inline with the brake lever on the drum. That would be cooler for sure and more complicated, but more rewarding.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:30 PM   #73
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Default Re: Rigid Gilera Racer - #2 project

I think if your brake rod linkage was straight, and you had a shaft maybe 14mm diameter , 50mm long and drilled and tapped from both ends. Bolt it to the inside of your foot lever where the linkage is bolted now, then bolt the straight linkage into the other end of the 14mm shaft and the levers would be in effect inline like Jaws is saying. The whole lever brake pedal assembly looks really cool and well done btw, that's why I would keep what you have and basically make a jack shaft to move the position over.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:36 PM   #74
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Wait a minute, is that drum mounted backwards? Usually you push the brake pedal down on a manual drum it PULLS the lever on the drum, not pushes it like yours is going to. Maybe not an issue but if it IS mount backwards the drum will be spinning in the opposite direction in relation to the shoes than intended. The whole shoe assembly could come apart inside the drum, maybe?
I guess my point is on the farm I grew up on we had a couple of Farmall 300 M tractors, while they had adequate brakes rolling forward, they were a death trap if you let them go backwards over a hill. If that drum is spinning in the wrong direction you may have shitty brakes going forward.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:36 AM   #75
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Do you really like the rear fender thing?
Hello jaws, yes of course i like it, you dont?

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Originally Posted by WhizzbangK.C. View Post
You really need to revisit your rear brake linkage again. That thin, bent, push rod set up will fold like a weak poker hand when you really need it to work. Not a good design there. I'm liking most of what you're doing though.
Thanks, I really tested it, put almost all my body weight to see if it will snap and it didnt, not even got bent or something, i think before the linkage will snap it whould rip the aluminum on the rearset lever, but for what i tested, it holds up good. i didnt like neither to have this bent rod, but it was the only way i found to make it work, keep in mind this is a very small and light motorcycle, this rod is about 4 inches long, so its pretty tough besides it looks like not.

[quote=JAWS;1738273]I completely agree. Gussets or something. That's going to be like using a piece of spaghetti when you slam it hard in a panic stop. Your pushrod needs to be straight inline with the levers. Meaning they, the levers, need to be inline with eachother also.

Hello again jaws !!

Read my answer to WhizzbangK.C, i tested this once i finished it, i got rid of the cable driven thing because is was really shitty set up. the lever position can be adjusted to match the rearset level as the lever on the hub has an square hole so theres only 4 positions to choose.



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Connect the two with a bolt, a long one with a tube spacer and sandwich a new linkage rod thingy next to the inside lever. Run that straight back to the lever on the brake.

Or make a new setup where your pedal moves a lever inline with the brake lever on the drum. That would be cooler for sure and more complicated, but more rewarding.
I whould love to make something like that, but, as I am very complicated with the times to finish this bike, thats gonna be the final version of the linkage, maybe if i have some spare time before i finish the bike ill make something like you suggested, if not, its a very cool idea for a next build!

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I think if your brake rod linkage was straight, and you had a shaft maybe 14mm diameter , 50mm long and drilled and tapped from both ends. Bolt it to the inside of your foot lever where the linkage is bolted now, then bolt the straight linkage into the other end of the 14mm shaft and the levers would be in effect inline like Jaws is saying. The whole lever brake pedal assembly looks really cool and well done btw, that's why I would keep what you have and basically make a jack shaft to move the position over.
Thanks for the advise, I really appreciate it. but it sounds like the same i did with the previous cable driven set up and, but just with a rod instead of pulling a cable. that setup was not good at all, also was very rough on the lever as the forces that pulled from the rod was making the lever want to twist it, hard on the bushing too. this was the only way i found to make it work, and it works very well too!

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Wait a minute, is that drum mounted backwards? Usually you push the brake pedal down on a manual drum it PULLS the lever on the drum, not pushes it like yours is going to. Maybe not an issue but if it IS mount backwards the drum will be spinning in the opposite direction in relation to the shoes than intended. The whole shoe assembly could come apart inside the drum, maybe?
I guess my point is on the farm I grew up on we had a couple of Farmall 300 M tractors, while they had adequate brakes rolling forward, they were a death trap if you let them go backwards over a hill. If that drum is spinning in the wrong direction you may have shitty brakes going forward.
Nope, it isnt backwards, is in the same position it goes in the original bike, the only difference is that on the original bike the brake rod pulls and in my setup it push, but i dont see any problem as the brake shoes are expanded the same no matter wich side you crank the lever, heres a picture of a original bike with the same hub im using!
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:48 AM   #76
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Okay, thanks for considering my input, and like I said, I really like the foot peg/pedal assembly,thanks for posting all this and have fun with it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:05 AM   #77
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Make gussets at the very least. Do them with speed holes or something so it looks racey. Make them for the insides of the two bends on the linkage rod. 1\4" or 3\16" plate steel or metric equivalent laid horizontal. Something to keep that from collapsing...cause it will.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:10 AM   #78
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Make gussets at the very least. Do them with speed holes or something so it looks racey. Make them for the insides of the two bends on the linkage rod. 1\4" or 3\16" plate steel or metric equivalent laid horizontal. Something to keep that from collapsing...cause it will.
Indeed. And when you need it most.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:59 AM   #79
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Okay, thanks for considering my input, and like I said, I really like the foot peg/pedal assembly,thanks for posting all this and have fun with it.
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Make gussets at the very least. Do them with speed holes or something so it looks racey. Make them for the insides of the two bends on the linkage rod. 1\4" or 3\16" plate steel or metric equivalent laid horizontal. Something to keep that from collapsing...cause it will.
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Indeed. And when you need it most.
Thanks guys for the input, will do the gusset thing as soon as i can.
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Old 10-09-2015, 11:13 AM   #80
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Well, after a long time without posting here, i finished the bike, it was a pain in the ass, had to run and work past the midnight almost everyday. painted and prepped the bike myself, had my friend Diego to hand paint the Logo on the tank and the thirteen on the tail. changed the handlebars design as i didnt like the previous version i made, used and old bubble visor to make the windshield, and had to fabricate lot of shit on the go, time got very tight so i couldn't build the engine, but finished all the aesthetics on the bike, it was crazy to finish this bike in a month and a half, this is my second build and i made some mistakes, avoided some of the mistakes i made in the first one, but i have a long long road to keep learning about building bikes, Thanks to the guys, specially jaws and his good eye who helped a lot in mistakes i made, and lester, who always followed the build from the first post.

Ill make another rear brake rod with gussets as i get the bike back from the exhibition, need to start the bike too, just need to throw the clutch and piston in, and wire the generator.
Also i didnt had time to finish the girder from scratch so i found another, but this is a second generation sachs, so its more stronger, not as good looking as the first but now i learned not to chop shit if you have a tight schedule.

Hope the bike sells, as i invest the little savings i had in this, more than a gamble i feel it like a test for myself and my future building bikes.

Hope you guys like how the bike turned out, and thanks for following the build, im going to take better pictures, so keep tuned!!

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