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Shovel start issue

3K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  76shuvlinoff 
#1 ·
Bike is warm or hot.

I kick start and it sputters. If it doesn't start on that kick but sputters I'm looking at taking my helmet off and breaking a sweat to get it to light again.

This weekend it did the sputter thing and I removed the air cleaner. The accelorator pump is throwing NO fuel. ( S&S Super E )

Is that "normal"?

If the bike is hot does it somehow prevent the pump from working to avoid flooding? Is it vapor locked? . I don't get it. Throws fuel fine while running or cold starting.

 
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#2 ·
it should pump all the time you open the throttle.hot or cold....
, you may have a bad pump plunger, ....or an air lock in ya fuel line,.....or a blockage in fuel flow,...even a blocked vent in the gas cap.
check each one by one ....if you have an inline fuel filter, it could be either blocked or restricting flow.....
I personaly dont like S&S carbs, piss poor carb from the stone age in my book, but many seem to like them and get them running well enough for most uses.... if ya can, I'd say fit a Mikuni or a Harley CV carb, so much easier to start with than an S&S...$00.02 ........
 
#3 ·
As Pete said dude it could be a blockage or it could be the plunger isn't being actuated, check for the adjustment. My pan starts hot and cold first or second kick with a shorty E. I don't like the E I'll be honest, it's too big for a standard 74CI. As a starting point I wind my accel pump screw out 3 turns. My pan seems to like it there with no flat spots.

Rhys
 
#11 ·
Yeah about 3 turns out dude, runs sweet for me. I mean the tester is to do about 50 MPH let off the throttle in 4th and snap it full open, if the bike doesn't cough or die and picks up, it's set pretty good. I want a Link 74B on mine. Once I've bought my springer forks I'll be on the hunt for one.
 
#13 ·
I just cleaned my carb after not touching it for years
bike was getting hard to start and a little cough here and there.
Nothing was blocked inside but all brass bits(jets etc were green and furry)
i cleaned all with scotchbrite on tooth picks replaced in line filter and rubber boot on acc. pump arm(CV)
now runs perfectly (I'm amazed)
 
#14 ·
The crap and ethanol in petrol now. I looked in my tank the other day and all I could see was bits floating in it from the eth. Awful stuff now there's no lead in it. As Rich said above it's handy to clean it and 100% use a filter.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Is the fuel line running between the jugs? If so it has to be pretty much dead nuts centered to keep it from overheating. Running it through a piece of bigger hose or the corrugated tubing that comes with the E carb (used to come with the Es anyhow) will prevent the locking up. Do you have the heat spacer between the carb and manifold? Apparently it's not the case here but I've been told often that external filters are a point for vapor lock. They seem to attract heat.

My shovel is not a kick start bike but it likes a CV so much mo better than the two Es I ran on it.
.02

edit: You can get a hard press-on adapter for a CV to bolt to a stock or S&S manifold. I have only seen them on eBay. I have used them on 40 and 44mm CVs. Slick as shit, no rubbers to leak.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I usually fold a sheet of beer can around the fuel hose where it goes between da jugs. Works fine.

BTW only use "fuel injection hose" because the garbage sold as generic "fuel line" is not ethanol resistant. It gradually crumbles and cracks. I won't use it on my lawn mower.

Cut lengths of injection hose are cheaper via Ebay than local auto stores.

I've run external plastic 90-degree filters for decades in hot weather. No vapor lock or other problems. The amount of crap they stopped is scary.

I started using Hengst H103WK filters off Ebay since they are slimmer than the old Toyota filter style I used to run. They were originally for Mercedes but work nicely on Harleys and they are like 8 bucks a pair shipped. Brass screen instead of pleats so you can look at ALL the trash. :eek:

Not thread crapping because it may help the original poster: Any suggestions for CV jetting for an 80" Shovel with a mild cam (grind unknown, late wife built the motor) and (probably Cycle Shack) turnout pipes? It didn't have any issues with an E but I like to experiment.
 

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#21 ·
You could just mod a manifold rather than lose fuel capacity and hassle with a tank swap.

Very cool to see one still in the box. I never got the chance to run a Lectron.

If you want to try just extending the rubber hose, you could bring manifold and carb to an industrial hose shop and likely find hose that's plenty rigid and tough for the job. Retail auto store customers never see the variety of industrial solutions available, and they'll cut to length if needed. (An abrasive disc in an angle grinder does a neat job too.)
 
#24 · (Edited)
Bike has been a fucker to start from day one. It takes like ten pumps to get fuel in.

If I pump it like 4 or 5 squirts kick it and then pull a plug they are bone dry yet I can see the accelerator pump throwing fuel..

Let me also ad Im no mechanic. I built the bike but I don't really know fuck-all about motors. Im not gonna front. I have a guy who does my motors.

My fuel line does a serious loop . Its way long, goes between the jugs and then up to the carb. Theres no other way to run it .

Bike is hard starting but runs like a champ on the road.

Crazy it seems to start when I take the air cleaner cover off. Pain in the ass... I wanna sell the fucker
 
#30 ·
Bike has been a fucker to start from day one. It takes like ten pumps to get fuel in.

If I pump it like 4 or 5 squirts kick it and then pull a plug they are bone dry yet I can see the accelerator pump throwing fuel..

Let me also ad Im no mechanic. I built the bike but I don't really know fuck-all about motors. Im not gonna front. I have a guy who does my motors.

My fuel line does a serious loop . Its way long, goes between the jugs and then up to the carb. Theres no other way to run it .

Bike is hard starting but runs like a champ on the road.

Crazy it seems to start when I take the air cleaner cover off. Pain in the ass... I wanna sell the fucker
My pan is exactly the same man, EXACTLY. But I give it a few pumps and it always kicks up. Thing is from what I gather the E is for bigger CI than stock big twins. My 74" Pan doesn't need all that ass. Thanks for the CV stuff too guys, I want a linkert, my heart is set on one. Mine only coughs a little at 80 MPH if you try and crack throttle. On the flip she starts first kick cold..
 
#25 ·
It's easy enough to try a CV. Usually simple things are what cause frustrating problems.

There are MANY CV swap threads with pics and there are always carbs on Ebay if you can't score one locally. I'd check Craigslist first. Lots of people sell leftovers after they buiild a chobber.
 
#27 ·
Have a look on places like HDForums - heaps of low mileage take off parts

There is a guy that's really well known for providing complete set ups for shovels - for some reason I cant access the shovelhead us site at the moment - maybe someone else knows him?
 
#28 · (Edited)
When I had my E I had the fuel line as short as I could make it so it was high, like damn near rocker cover high. It had a piece of corrugated tubing around it, think wire loom but farmall may have the trick with a beer can shield. I also made a piece of heavy wire into a double ended loop that the bottom bolt on the manifold went through one one end and the fuel line went through on the other, again this was to keep it centered between the jugs. Right now all I have on it is the 6-8" piece of corrugated tubing around the fuel line. Works fine.

Again, the insulator block between the manifold and carb might matter.

40mm CV with CV backing plate and filter. My old 7" round cover slips over it and no one is the wiser. Yeah I know, you guys like those the little air cleaners as to show case the mill and I don't blame you. I am sure one could be fitted.

 
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