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Old 04-03-2019, 11:26 PM   #1
NZT100
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Default NZ Shovelhead build

We’ll, I thought it time for me to post a build thread on my shovelhead. I’ll give you the backstory from my first days of ownership.

So, I live in New Zealand and round here old Harleys are few and far between, so in 2014 I went looking to import a bike from the US. After a few months scouring Craigslist I found one I was pretty keen on, the money was right, I got it checked out and pulled the trigger. This is the pic of the bike on Craigslist, it had a few nice bits on it such as belt drive primary, early swingarm, juice drum brake, 21” front wheel, 3.5Gal tanks etc, rebuilt heads (apparently), I was pretty happy. I put it on a boat to NZ and after a 4 month wait it turned up.

All was good with the bike, it matched the pictures, was quite tidy, and ran. I had seen video of it run by the guy who picked the bike up and freighted it for me, but this was a relief to see it in person. The day I got it I changed the oil out, got it running, gave it a quick once over, and was off for a ride. Bear in mind this is the first time I’d ever ridden a HD….I was stoked and headed round to my mate Steves to show him. @Straightleg_steve on Instagram, he has a heap of cool old stuff and has been a mentor with the old HD big time for me. Cheers Steve for all your time and wisdom.

Here’s me arriving at Steves, this is about 30km from my house. Bike ran great on the ride over.

We hit the road, my shovel and Steves shovel. About 15 mins down the road i hear a faint tapping, just enough of a noise change to make me wonder, I pull over, we check It out, still running “fine”, but head back to check pushrod adjustment etc just in case. All checks out and we cant find anything obviously wrong, so back on the road. Noise goes away. So we make it about 30kms further from Steves to the pub, have a beer and then decide to head back. About 5kms back down the road the noise of a spanner being shaken in a tin can and a dead Shovelhead fills the air.

This is what we found. Dropped exhaust valve, lunched head. Bad times.






So we pulled the bike down immediately. At the end of the first day of Shovelhead ownership this is how my bike looked.



I rebuilt the motor, sent the whole thing to a specialist shop up North here in NZ. New bottom end to factory specs (it was well shot according to the builder), new S&S heads, a complete freshen up top to bottom. While it was apart i polished the rocker boxes and cam cover up too. I also did some research, motor should be an 80”, however, had 74” gear inside. We suspect the PO swapped out some good bits and slapped whatever he had laying around in for sale…lucky me. The motor was a real mismatch inside, different pushrods, wrong rotating assembly, valve retainers were different, not to mention the Timkens were knackered, apparently a rarity….yikes.






Got the bike running again after about a month, re-jetted the carb for the 74”, it ran mint, put new stainless bars on, got rid of some of the horrible bits on it, removed the dead electric start system and made some blanking plates up At this stage it looked like this..



Life was good again. 500km later and I go to start it and the kicker goes to shit. Right, gearbox overhaul time. Pulled it down and found this..





stripped kicker gears, worn bushing…big time. However, found some good, full Andrews gearset (like new) , Andrews mainshaft (stuffed), Jims countershaft. G-Box case is Custom chrome. It’s a bitsa. So, rebuilt that, machined the mainshaft spacer for an O-ring, new Andrews mainshaft and kicker gears, all new gaskets. Back in action.






Couple more miles down the road, wiring goes bad. I’ve learnt to always have tools on me riding this thing, had enough electrical tape to get me home. Partial re-wire was no major.

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Old 04-03-2019, 11:26 PM   #2
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Right now this is how the bike looks. It was a bit of a “troublehead” for a while there.



Anyways, the bike now runs great and I love it, learnt a lot, but I’ve always had a plan and a purpose for this bike. This is the next part of the story and one that I’ll be keeping you up to date on. Chopper time.

I’ve been collecting parts for a few years now. Some of them as below, HCI axle plates for the hardtail which we are building from scratch (Steves working on the jig right now, its a masterpiece), re-pop springer with Jammer top clamp (not using the long one, i built that for fun/another project, if you want the plans ask away!!), GME folded oil tank, 21” x 1.6” front wheel with Star hub (needs lacing) & drum brake, Wassell mid tunnel tank, NOS Avon Speedmaster 21” x 2.75”, Tin-primary setup etc, plus a heap of other bits as you can see.






I’ll be keeping a build thread going on here, I hope its interesting and fingers crossed I can put something cool together. This isn’t going to happen overnight, the bike will be at Steves and I now live in another city 4 hours drive away and don’t have a garage, I’ll be doing the 4 hour commute regularly to do this so bare with me. Luckily i work for a large engineering company so can potter with stuff here between weekends wrenching. I’ll do my best to capture all the cool small details of a project like this for you all.

Thanks for reading
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:27 PM   #3
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Mostly just copying this from the other forum for those that dont frequent there, sorry about some of the larger images.

So, ive been working away in the background getting bits and pieces buttoned up before the bike gets pulled down.

First thing I needed to do prior to lacing the front wheel was rebuild the star hub. Rather than rebuild to factory specs (even though the bearing races were in good condition) I decided to fit sealed roller bearings. I’ll detail the process and give some insight as to how I did this as I see people ask from time to time.

I used this link for the base of the work I did and made changes as i saw fit http://www.shovel-head.com/tech/fahr...conversion.pdf.
First, I machined the hub for 3x sealed bearings. I did 3 (2x at the brake end, and 1x at the star end), as by adding a 2nd at the star end I would have had to machine through to inline with the flange which I didn’t like the idea of, I used the widest bearing for the star end I could get my hands on so the load rating wasn’t drastically reduced. I used bearings 6204-2RS x 2 and 63004-2RS x 1.




Next, I machined the middle spacer, again, just a modified version of the above link to work with my 3 bearing setup. This was quite tricky as there is a double step portion to accommodate the steps in the axle which took some careful boring work. Also critical was getting the fits for the ID of the bearings to the sleeve right, and the width between the bearings so when its all snugged up the bearing can run fine. Got this all within 0.02mm.





Next, I did the axle spacers. I quickly modelled everything in Solidworks to get base dimensions, then tuned for "as built". I sat the hub on the axle with only the star side bearing in place, I then machined a dummy spacer from scrap tube as per my model to get things centred, and adjusted accordingly. Once this was done I took to the brake side. I knew I would have to shorten the drum sleeve, but by how much…same process as above accept now I have all bearings and the centre spacer installed in the hub. Measure and machine a dummy spacer, bolt all together and check centre. All was good so machined the star side from aluminium to finish length, and shortened the brake side sleeve to the spacer length I dummied. All done and ready to be laced to the rim.



Next, I’d seen the Wargasser juice drum anchor plates before and thought it a really nice solution for the juice drum brake stay. I had a couple of these cut from 6mm stainless at work on the laser. Oh yeah, I work at a really big engineering shop so have access to all sorts of cool gear….you name it we have it. I then machined a small lug out of SS and fused it in. Still needs a polish and some finishing work but its worked well.





Also, Steve gave me this sweet folded GME oil tank a few years back and I always knew I wanted to use it on this Shovel build. It needed an oil cap which I had laying around which fit perfectly, this will see a polish in the future. Originally it had the HD fittings on the tank with the odd flare and I wanted to make this more standardized for ease of making/buying lines and fittings, I came up with a plan.

I cut off the original HD fittings from the tank and replaced these with run of the mill JIC 37 degree flare fittings. I bought these with a thread on both ends so machined one end down to a weld prep and TIG’d them on. Hardline fittings for these use a cutting ring to seal the tube to the flare, so no flare is needed, just bend and cut the SS tube to length and assemble…easy. Furthermore, braided oil line and fittings are readily available for this flare type so getting flexible lines is a simple task now. Win win.



The tank had a bit of surface rust on both inside and outside. I bought blanking fittings for the JIC threads and oil drain, filled it with white vinegar and salt and left it for 2 days. Rinsed it out the next day and it was like new inside. Left all the plugs in it and gave a spray with CRC to stop any flash rust until it gets oil someday. Cleaning up the outside was a simple job with some a 240 grit pad on my orbital sander.
I’m super stoked with this oil tank and can’t wait to see it on the bike!!

I'm heading back to where the bike is located for the upcoming long weekend so will strip it down and drop the front wheel to be laced up while im at it. Pics to come.

By the way, if im being too wordy, or not enough pictures please let me know, trying to make this is enjoyable a read as possible.

Last edited by NZT100; 04-03-2019 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:27 PM   #4
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

The weekend been saw the last days of the bike as it was, i snapped a few pics before it pulled it down. I truely did love how this bike looked...one day ill have another the same.




I pulled it down to a bare frame. Honestly it was good i did, i found alot of small issues that would have made it unsafe too ride and/or casued me gried given more miles. Here where we are at now..




Frame has been dropped for an acid bath to remove all the paint and crud, front hub and rim are being laced up, about a fortnight away for both. Today i had the new rear tyre fitted and did some cleaning work on the rear rim. The PO has painted the nice SS nipples blue which had to come off, luckily a good knife and some scotch bright were all that was needed to scrape it off. The crhome on the hub and rim was just sweetened up with some tin foil and water. Came up nice.





When i pulling the rear drum apart i found the brake shoes were stuffed, so will be ordering new ones there. Also, the rear sprocket is missing teeth and needs replacing, luckily i have a new one so today i ordered a 10-24UNC Helicoil kit to do the swap to capscrews as per Saddlebgrails method. http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/2011...ead-of-rivets/
Need to get a allen key for the drum bolts so that will be this weekends mission, will clean the drum up while im at it.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:28 PM   #5
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Front wheel came in early so managed to get it all buttoned up. It's a 21" x 1.60" chrome steel rim that i had laced with SS spokes and nipples. Dropped it to the local bike shop and had them fit up the NOS 2.75" Avon...so the wheel set is officially done and im fizzing about how they've both come up!!




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Old 04-03-2019, 11:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Some updates.

Well things have been going slowly but surely..which is good. Rushing never results and a nice finished product. The big news is a pick my frame up from Steves this week...I'll come back to that.

In the meantime my trans was leaking so i ripped it down...this was the culprit.


I'd previously machined the MDG spacer for the o-ring, however it had picked up and torn. Upon closer inspection i wasn't happy with the machine work and expected this same issue would happen again as i dont believe i quite got the groove spot on when i first machined it.

So, in the gearbox i found -

-MDG end play way out of spec
-Countershaft thrust way out of spec
-MDG Bushing to mainshaft way over spec

So i machined a new MDG spacer, made a press tool and replaced the MDG bearing and honed ot size, added an O-ring to the groove present on the Andrews main drive gear, and re-assembled after a full clean down of everything. Good as new now.

IMG-6025
IMG-6050
IMG-6038
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:35 PM   #7
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

I love pic heavy build threads.

You're in full control, keep going.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:36 PM   #8
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

The interesting part here is the frame. I always planned to hard tail my frame and Steve said he wanted to do it, so of course off we went.

In order to do this we first needed a frame jig, so Steve built one. This is the ducks nuts of frame jigs. Built off of an original Panhead frame in mint condition, everything was machined from high grade aluminium and doweled for factory HD positions, as well as having full adjustability for the varying frame changes.

IMG-5827
IMG-5826
IMG-5825
IMG-5824
IMG-5822

Next, in order to get the lower rail bends the same as the Panhead frame Steve made a custom large radius former, and came up with a tricky bend solution to match the chain clearnace bend.

IMG-5823IMG-5817
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:39 PM   #9
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So got the frame home and did the last of the trimming, removed the factory dash mounts as well as a few other brackets and unnecessary tabs, came up good.

IMG-6085

I then test fitted the tank and cut off the front bracket as ill be using the split tank mounts at the front to mount this.

IMG-6088

I liked the way the lines were looking so i fitted up the front end and rear wheel to see what work was needed. Two small issues in the front...
1) The "Roller bearing conversion kit" had one incorrect bearing being it was too big on the ID and had no bottom bearing dust cover
2) The crown nut is incorrect and for loose bearings so causes clearance issues with the top clamp.
Both easy fixes and will suss in the coming weeks, no major hurry on these

IMG-6103
IMG-6105

Rear wheel fit good but will need some adjusting. The frame has pulled in just on the left meaning we are just off line, a bit of tweaking will have the rear wheel and brake on with no offset lacing to the wheel needed which is ideal. Will take care of this in a two weeks when im back at Steves.

Had to sit on it and test the Bluetooth handlebars out....risers are being worked on ATM, got something cool going on...if it works...

IMG-6108


In the meantime will be sorting the oil and gas tank mounting as well as gathering up fasteners for everything.
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Old 04-04-2019, 02:24 AM   #10
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Mother of God.

That's some frame jig. And everything else. Wild, thanks.
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Old 04-04-2019, 02:46 AM   #11
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

I approve of this build...

I really dig the shit out of it.

Wish I had a frame jig.

For a minute there I thought you were going to make a long bike...
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Old 04-04-2019, 02:53 AM   #12
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

The Paughco top clamp and its various chinese copies is not designed to work with a factory crown or in HD lingo Cone nut, you know the 'sprocket on top" kind. Paughco has its own crown nut with a hex on top.
Now here is where it gets tricky. Once you set the preload on the timkens there is nothing that keeps the crown nut from turning loosening the preload.
On the Paughco nut you can use the hex to jam the crown nut against the bottom of the top clamp but the sprocket needs the stock HD type of securing.
A stock HD top clamp has a little hole on the headlight side of the clamp and a sheetmetal cap covers the rear legs and has a pin that goes through that hole and engages the sprocket and keeps it from turning.
With the Paughco clamp and a sprocket crown nut you need to drill a hole to push through a dowel pin or thread it and use an allen screw, anything that keeps the sprocket from turning and losing the preload on the bearings.
The pics show a factory HD top clamp which is actually one piece with the handlebars but having the bars cut off and the HD center piece with the pin that engages the sprocket. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-04-2019, 04:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VonWegener View Post
The Paughco top clamp and its various chinese copies is not designed to work with a factory crown or in HD lingo Cone nut, you know the 'sprocket on top" kind. Paughco has its own crown nut with a hex on top.
Thanks for the information VonWedgener. I'd since realized this through speaking to a few people and doing some reading. Plan is to make a new top nut that will not only allow the clamp to sit at the correct position but also lock the nut in place and secure the bearing pre-load.
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:51 AM   #14
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

geeezzzz.. I've never seen a frame jig like that!! looks like a frikin tank!
hahaha awesome!!
good read up on this, not far off from what I done on my 76 shovel. rode swing arm and sprung struts for a year, then chopped her!
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Old 04-06-2019, 01:10 PM   #15
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Been down that road of buying a shiny piece of shit and finally saying fuck it. Chop it and redo everything. I have frame jig envy. Oh yeah, bike is looking killer and love all the large detail pics.
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Old 04-08-2019, 05:28 PM   #16
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Started making small bites of progress on mounting the oil tank and gas tank.

I found that once i actually sat the oil tank in the frame and bolted up the front mounts there were a number of issues.
-The factory oil tank mount plate caused the oil tank to hit the upper rear frame rails so would need modifying, not good due to chrome on it
-Making a new plate for the bottom was not an option due to clearance issues with the clutch arm
-The shifter plate on the trans fouled the bottom front corner of the oil tank
-The front mount on the oil tank was welded on crooked and offset so the tank sat further toward the kicker side than should be which made the line looking down from the top of the bike horrible

So this was my solution. I made up a spacer plate (apparently factory spacers are 8mm) out of 5mm plate, then made a new front mount plate for the oil tank. I also made 2 threaded bungs and tabs to mount of the frame rear cross bar, these are just dummied in in the pics and will have plates welded in before being welded to the top of the tank to prevent cracking.








Next up was the gas tank mount. I wanted to use the split tank mounts on the front and one at the rear giving effectively 3 mounting points which is much stronger, so i cut of the front tank made and made this up. Still needs final welding but should work well.





Lastly, i started playing with headlight mounting. Going to mount at this height by turning a stepped bar that will mount between the lugs on the springer, should look cool.




Another issue (if you can call it that) was that my rear tyre always bugged me, something just never looked right. Well Steve pointed out my rear rim looked off, after giving it a measure it is not the factory Harley 16" x 3" as i thought, its closer to 4.5" wide meaning the tyre was stretched on...Bingo, problem found. I've got a new 16" x 3" on the way as well as a new Avon SM MK2 to suit, do it once do it right.

Oh yeah, as you can probably see now im literally building this in my lounge and on my deck...where theres a will theres a way right
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:46 PM   #17
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Slowly continuing onward.

Spun up a headlight mount, still need a tab welded to the back that bolts to the springer bridge to stop it rotating, but it works well...only bugger is i discovered the unity headlight i'd bought had an issue with the decorative piece at the top of the bevel not being center which really looks bad, i may change it out for something else...





I also machined up the riser part of my risers, these are a slow work in progress with a lot of work to come, you may get some idea of where im headed with these now though.



As i mentioned in my last post too i was changing my rear rim and tyre out, got that all buttoned up and am much happier. Have moved on to getting the rear fender widened to suit now and am cutting some strip to do so today at work on the guillotine.





We have a 10 day holiday here in NZ coming up so will be spending this at Steves place, hoping to have the roller locked down, tins finish welded and mounted, rear wheel spacing sorted, and the rear fender/sissy bar made.....wish me luck

Last edited by NZT100; 06-24-2019 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:08 PM   #18
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What a delight to see this build. Aside from being visually pleasing I applaud the basic fabrication guidelines being applied. I can tell that you are no stranger to working with metal. Very nice.
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Old 04-28-2019, 03:10 AM   #19
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Took a ten day break here in NZ and managed to get a solid few days on the bike with the help of friends.

First job was to take a look at the springer. In eyeing up everything when installed on the frame it was obvious that the wheel was cocked left and lent over so we knew something wasn't right. Upon investigating we found -

1 - The front leg right side had been welded on crooked meaning the rocker was on an angle causing rocker bind
2 - The front legs were miss-aligned front to back meaning the axle was not running square with the frame
3 - The rear legs were miss-aligned front to back
4 - The rear leg rocker holes were at different lengths from the lower tree by 1.5mm

Front leg we made a tool to fit the rocker tab and simply clamped the leg down and tweaked back to place.



Rear leg we clamped down, checked the miss-alignment with rods, and again tweaked back into place.






We chose to leave the 4th point as it was minor and would have been more trouble than it worth for the minor difference. All back together it was running sweet but the changes meant some offset lacing is now needed to the front rim as everything has moved and its of centre by 2mm now.

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Old 04-28-2019, 03:11 AM   #20
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Next was sorting the rear wheel and spacing out.

I had clearance issues with the brake plate and axle plate and really wanted to keep the mech brake tap, so first had to linish down the back of this down for clearance, this was simple and didnt get a pic but only a few mm came off the casting high spots.

Due to running the 67-72 juice drum and axle we were always going to have a few chain line issues to sort, i know its been done before plenty of times but always with a slightly different answer on how.

The simplest fix for us was to spread the rear axle plates slightly (about 3.5mm) to get the chain line spot on. We clamped the crap out of the frame to the welding table, welded on a beam to push off of that sat hard against the right side axle plate so as not to move that, and then ran a piece of round bar that located against the front down tube (we clamped some angle to act as a fixed point) and rear motor mount. This bar allowed us to take measurements to both axle plates so we knew which were moving and by how much.



All in all by doing it this we were able to use all of the brake side 67-72 axle components, the only right side change will be shortening the spacer a few mm.

End of day it was all buttoned up.




Next i wanted to weld in the oil tank mounts. It had been about 5 years since touching a TIG so figured it a good place to start as it will all be hidden by the seat. Came out really good and i think this will be a good long term mounting solution that will prevent cracking.







We also machined and welded in these small sleeves. These are 1-1/8" OD and 1" ID, they are simply to hide the step in the tubing due to the hardtail. Being we put in a trans bridge plate the step in the tube is now almost in-perceivable.






And lastly for the day, Steve made me up a stem nut to the correct length needed. We tried a Paughco one but it was still too long.





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