1966 Bsa 650 on a budget - Page 3 - The Jockey Journal Board

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Old 11-02-2019, 05:15 PM   #41
JasonMcElroy
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

I drew some oil passage ways on your pic.

Yellow lines are drilled passages.

You can see the rear feed fitting entering the head and leading to the center boss for the intake rocker arm. That boss is drilled downward into that passage so that oil can reach the rocker arm. The top is then plugged.

The side drilling is to connect the intake rocker arm feed to the exhaust rocker arm feed. It is drilled from the from the front then plugged.

The oil makes it from the center boss to side boss (and up to the front) through the rocker arm (in purple).

Jason


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Old 11-06-2019, 09:08 PM   #42
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Had a productive day at work today. That means it was good for me and bad for my boss. I got the crank float dialed in to about .0024 after 5 shimming attempts. Honed my jug and found a little damage in the lifter valley i need to clean up. Removed all my valves and spun them in the lathe to make sure none were bent. Then lots of cleaning. Ill finish lapping the valves and check rod bearing clearance tomorrow.
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Old 11-07-2019, 06:09 PM   #43
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Plastiguaged out almost right at .002. With the better oil we have these days im confident everything should work just fine on the lower end. A lot of people skip this step but this gives me peace of mind that i didnt remove too much material when polishing the journals. Also bsa rod end nuts are absolute garbage. I will be using different nuts for final torque ill assemble the cases and lower end at home over the weekend. The shop is just too dirty for me to do assembly.Click image for larger version

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Old 11-10-2019, 04:16 PM   #44
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I goofed and dropped my head and broke a fin.
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Old 11-10-2019, 07:21 PM   #45
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Good save!
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:53 AM   #46
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So i got the lower end and cases together now im waiting on gaskets for more assembly. Are the circlips on the lifters just to hold them from falling out when mounting the jug? Out of the 6 lifters i have only 1 had a circlip on it. Are these necessary?
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Old 11-12-2019, 08:54 AM   #47
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

They aren't really necessary...out of the dozens of BSA twins I've worked on, only two still had them. Pack the lifters with grease, or temporarily slip a small O ring over each one and they ought to stay in place when fitting the cylinders.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:24 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldy View Post
They aren't really necessary...out of the dozens of BSA twins I've worked on, only two still had them. Pack the lifters with grease, or temporarily slip a small O ring over each one and they ought to stay in place when fitting the cylinders.
Ah ok. Thats what i was thinking. I was going to push some rubber fuel line over them and pull it off once the jug was mounted. Just wanted to make sure they were not necessary.
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:50 AM   #49
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So the frame had some damage on the back half like it was tweaked a bit, maybe a low speed wreck or something so this make the frame a good option for a custom frame i have been wanting to try. Im going to do a softail design with a monoshock to the backbone of the frame to the rear suspension. Heres a little sketch of the idea. If i doesnt work out ill go rigid hardtail.
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Old 11-15-2019, 02:03 PM   #50
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

The frames on these things are made of some pretty substantial stuff, so it should be able to handle the forces encountered with a monoshock set-up. If you can get your pivot bushing mounts up near the location for the swing arm pivot, it ought to work well (too low and it will play nasty games with your chain tension). You seem to be a pretty clever guy, so now that you've cut the rear end off, I say go for it!
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Old 11-15-2019, 09:34 PM   #51
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Haha thanks Goldy. Im going to give it a shot. I was thinking about trying a spring loaded chain tensioner to absorb any slack so i could make the pivot point a little lower for a cleaner look but we will see how it goes. I ordered a 900lb monoshock for $60 so when that shows up i can start doing some fab work.
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Old 11-16-2019, 11:12 AM   #52
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

A sprung chain tensioner popped into my head too, but it might cause issues when engine braking...Have a little peek at how HD does the soft tail frames..might give you some ideas. Eager to see what you come up with!
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Old 11-16-2019, 07:07 PM   #53
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And i thought i came up with a simple idea and its basically the same as the new harleys softail frames. Now im basically just going to copy that design.
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:51 AM   #54
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Maybe similar to earlier bikes:



Triangulating the swingarm is probably a good idea.
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Old 11-17-2019, 03:47 PM   #55
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Aw, yeah. Build that.
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:02 PM   #56
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Finished up the lower swing arm mounts today. Now i need to mock up the stance to figure out how long and how much of a drop to make the swing arm. And i need my monoshock to be able to half ass assemble this thing. Really hoping i dont have to end up cutting this stuff off later to do a rigid.
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Old 11-20-2019, 01:19 PM   #57
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Looks like real nice work to me. But whatta I know?
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:22 PM   #58
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Quietly following this in a jealous sort of way, looking good. Just going back to your sketch, you wrote ‘brass bushes’. These should be bronze, not brass. I can’t tell from the pics, but to be honest I can’t always tell when I’m holding the material in my hands. Chips come off brass when turned, wigglies come off bronze.
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Old 11-20-2019, 05:16 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CookieMonster View Post
Quietly following this in a jealous sort of way, looking good. Just going back to your sketch, you wrote ‘brass bushes’. These should be bronze, not brass. I can’t tell from the pics, but to be honest I can’t always tell when I’m holding the material in my hands. Chips come off brass when turned, wigglies come off bronze.
We call them brass bushings at work but they are actually oil lite, oil impregnated bushing material. When you press them in they will actually drip oil out of them. Its also important not to weld the boss with them already installed as well because it will cook the oil out and ruin your welds. (I learned to run the lathe with this material because it cuts smooth and easy at most normal speeds and feed rates)
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Old Yesterday, 03:14 AM   #60
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Wow, I just learned something. I’d vaguely heard of this stuff but didn’t know you could get machinable lumps. I knew you’d done it right reading the rest of this, just testing you.
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