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Tech: Making a seat

6K views 47 replies 35 participants last post by  fastbastard 
#1 ·
So I crafted up a seat this past weekend. I've used this method a few times. usually trying to perfect and improve every time. I am by no means a pro, I never learned this from anyone, I just tried it out and it has worked for me over the past couple years. So here we go......

I like to use a fiberglass pan. they are really light, easy to make and fit really tight to the frame.

Supplies, everything is readily available at any auto parts store.


First you need to take off the area that you want to pour the fiberglass. This layer of take is going to keep it from sticking to your frame. use a good 3 to 4 layers, as the resin dries it will soak through just one layer so don't be stingy. Also some plastic sheeting protects the rest of your bike. This stuff gets nasty. WEAR GLOVES!





I like to cut the fiberglass blanket so i have one piece that will cover the whole seat pan. I lay that down first, soak with resin using a brush, then I put all the little 2" strips I cut up on top, making sure to cross them in all different directions. If you haven't used fiberglass resin, it gives you about 20 minutes of work time before it starts to set, so work fast. The key is to keep all the fiberglass tight fitting to the frame. Don't let it pucker up, that will create big air pockets in your pan. Use your brush to blot it back down and keep it sticking to the layer below it.











Let that puppy dry over night and pop it off! As you can see, I didn't put enough tape down, the resin reacts with the tape adhesive and makes a sticky mess. Nothing a little paint thinner or goo-gone can't handle.





Now mark draw out your outline and cut away, I think a jig saw works best. Once its cut out, hit all the rough spots and edge with some sand paper.





For foam I like to layer up these floor mats for a hole gym or play rooms. You can get them at Lowes. It's the same type of closed cell foam that you can get one the internet or kayak stores in thicker pieces. These are thinner so i just glue them together, its much cheaper than buying the thick 3" stuff. This pack of 4 was only 20 bucks plus I don't have to wait for shipping.



Make your pattern, then cut up a few layers. We will shape it later so it doesn't have to be perfect, but the more accurate it is now, the easier it is to make them stick when you tie it together.





Apply your contact cement between the layers and tie it all up tight. With contact cement more doesn't mean better, it actually slides around a whole lot when you gob it on. I like to stick some nails through it to keep it from doing so. Be sure you get it pressed really tight around the edges. Let this dry at least a day as well. You don't want it peeling apart.



Remove the string.



I wanted my seat pretty square. I just use a serrated knife from the kitchen to shape and trim the foam. If you want to round your seat more or put some more blended shaping to it a really toothy rasp works very well.



And just to keep you interested, this is the finished product.



To be Continued.... i'll finish up posting the upholstery process tonight or tomorrow.
 
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#6 ·
Great tech!
I do them about the same but with a couple differences.
I add a layer of foil tape over the masking tape then spray a few coats of wax or mold release which helps the fiberglass get off easier. I also like to use the chopped strand mat on top of the fabric, (it makes the pan stronger).
When working with the chopped strand mat, or cutting / sanding the pan wear a long sleeve shirt, gloves, dust mask, goggles and a blacava. Tape off any exposed skin unless you want to itch for 3 days.
For materials, West Marine has a really nice pump system for the resin and hardener which is a bit more expensive but it makes the job a lot easier especially if you run out of resin and need to make a quick batch.
 
#16 ·
A trick for using contact cement is to take and brush a coat on each layer of foam let it set up then take a lint free rag with some touline on it and lightly rub the layers of cement to reactivate it (will be stickey as hell) them press the pieces together. This will keep things from sliding around. Just make sure that you have everything lined up good before you press them together for they will stick. A good thing also is take a couple of scrap pieces of foam and try it to get your technique down.
Dawg
 
#18 ·
ANother thing that can be used for the padding is carpet padding. My cousin owns a carpet store and you wouldn't believe how much "scrap" he throws out. there are a few different grades of current padding, notably a yellow colored stuff and a purple colored stuff (actually both are made up of various colors of foam chunks) the yellow stuff is less dense, and wears out faster.

ya might check with a local carpet store for some scraps
 
#22 ·
To answer a few questions....

my pans are usually about 1/4" thick. Since they are all rigid mounted, there is really no place for them to flex so thats all you need. mostly a place to mount the foam and attach the upholstery, the frame and fender take all the weight load.

Attaching it to the frame....On this seat I riveted a tab on the back then bolted it to the fender which I'll touch on at the end. Since they follows the deep contours of the frame it holds very tight. I ran my old seat for 5 years without any "mechanical" attachment to the frame. I try to sit on my seat when I ride so I don't really worry about it flying off. This is why I like fiberglass, you can make it more 3 dimentional so it holds around your frame rails as opposed to a steel pan that would just sit on top of the rails and slide around unless you bolt it down.

The aluminum foil trick many of you suggested is nifty, never thought of that and will be sure to use it.

I will finish up the tech this afternoon.
 
#23 ·
Oh and as far as carpet padding some works well. I have two problems with it though. one is I think its too squishy. I might go back with this one and put one layer of carpet padding and only 2 layers of closed cell foam, it's a touch too hard.

The other problem is if you use normal carpet padding (the un-coated stuff) and your scoot gets rained on, that shit takes forever to dry out, and will most likely mold. I once found a padding that was yellow and coated with a layer of plastic film on both sides that worked well. It wasn't the typical glued together foam peices type, it was more like a closed cell foam. I couldn't find it at the big box stores for this seat so I said screw it. I think i'll try a specialty carpet store and see if they have it.
 
#31 ·
The other problem is if you use normal carpet padding (the un-coated stuff) and your scoot gets rained on, that shit takes forever to dry out, and will most likely mold.
My trimmer uses Neoprene (wet suit material) for the top soft layer. In the case of my seat it was 20 millimeters of closed cell foam, and then 10 millimeters of Neoprene for the nice soft part.

If you're want to do it on the cheap, maybe keep an eye out for old wetsuits in garage sales etc.
 
#25 ·
nice stuff,but i saw one thing that disturbed me a little,the wires entering your frame tube has no protection against sharp edges and scuffing (spelling??) worries me when i see stuff like that after a nasty fire caused by shortcuts behind a gastank,

thanx for all the pics and tech

//janne
 
#27 ·
So here we go with part two. This will require some sewing skills. Its really not that hard, ask your sister, girlfriend, wife, grandma or the lady down the street. I did this all with a hand me down sewing machine my mom mom purchased in the 70's. SUPER basic, nothing fancy needed at all.

My seat cover is going to have a definite top, and sides. If this was more rounded and less complex of a shape, you could get away with just a top piece and stretch it down to the pan.

first make your top pattern , then you need to make the side patterns. cut the top pattern exact to the foam, but when you lay it out on the fabric to cut the fabric, you will leave some extra to sew. to get the clean edges we will be sewing everything inside out.

Do the same with the side pattern. To get the sides to be exact, again i used some nails. A soda or beer box is great for pattern making. better than paper and corrugated cardboard is a little too rigid.





 
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