So I crafted up a seat this past weekend. I've used this method a few times. usually trying to perfect and improve every time. I am by no means a pro, I never learned this from anyone, I just tried it out and it has worked for me over the past couple years. So here we go......
I like to use a fiberglass pan. they are really light, easy to make and fit really tight to the frame.
Supplies, everything is readily available at any auto parts store.
First you need to take off the area that you want to pour the fiberglass. This layer of take is going to keep it from sticking to your frame. use a good 3 to 4 layers, as the resin dries it will soak through just one layer so don't be stingy. Also some plastic sheeting protects the rest of your bike. This stuff gets nasty. WEAR GLOVES!
I like to cut the fiberglass blanket so i have one piece that will cover the whole seat pan. I lay that down first, soak with resin using a brush, then I put all the little 2" strips I cut up on top, making sure to cross them in all different directions. If you haven't used fiberglass resin, it gives you about 20 minutes of work time before it starts to set, so work fast. The key is to keep all the fiberglass tight fitting to the frame. Don't let it pucker up, that will create big air pockets in your pan. Use your brush to blot it back down and keep it sticking to the layer below it.
Let that puppy dry over night and pop it off! As you can see, I didn't put enough tape down, the resin reacts with the tape adhesive and makes a sticky mess. Nothing a little paint thinner or goo-gone can't handle.
Now mark draw out your outline and cut away, I think a jig saw works best. Once its cut out, hit all the rough spots and edge with some sand paper.
For foam I like to layer up these floor mats for a hole gym or play rooms. You can get them at Lowes. It's the same type of closed cell foam that you can get one the internet or kayak stores in thicker pieces. These are thinner so i just glue them together, its much cheaper than buying the thick 3" stuff. This pack of 4 was only 20 bucks plus I don't have to wait for shipping.
Make your pattern, then cut up a few layers. We will shape it later so it doesn't have to be perfect, but the more accurate it is now, the easier it is to make them stick when you tie it together.
Apply your contact cement between the layers and tie it all up tight. With contact cement more doesn't mean better, it actually slides around a whole lot when you gob it on. I like to stick some nails through it to keep it from doing so. Be sure you get it pressed really tight around the edges. Let this dry at least a day as well. You don't want it peeling apart.
Remove the string.
I wanted my seat pretty square. I just use a serrated knife from the kitchen to shape and trim the foam. If you want to round your seat more or put some more blended shaping to it a really toothy rasp works very well.
And just to keep you interested, this is the finished product.
To be Continued.... i'll finish up posting the upholstery process tonight or tomorrow.
I like to use a fiberglass pan. they are really light, easy to make and fit really tight to the frame.
Supplies, everything is readily available at any auto parts store.
First you need to take off the area that you want to pour the fiberglass. This layer of take is going to keep it from sticking to your frame. use a good 3 to 4 layers, as the resin dries it will soak through just one layer so don't be stingy. Also some plastic sheeting protects the rest of your bike. This stuff gets nasty. WEAR GLOVES!
I like to cut the fiberglass blanket so i have one piece that will cover the whole seat pan. I lay that down first, soak with resin using a brush, then I put all the little 2" strips I cut up on top, making sure to cross them in all different directions. If you haven't used fiberglass resin, it gives you about 20 minutes of work time before it starts to set, so work fast. The key is to keep all the fiberglass tight fitting to the frame. Don't let it pucker up, that will create big air pockets in your pan. Use your brush to blot it back down and keep it sticking to the layer below it.
Let that puppy dry over night and pop it off! As you can see, I didn't put enough tape down, the resin reacts with the tape adhesive and makes a sticky mess. Nothing a little paint thinner or goo-gone can't handle.
Now mark draw out your outline and cut away, I think a jig saw works best. Once its cut out, hit all the rough spots and edge with some sand paper.
For foam I like to layer up these floor mats for a hole gym or play rooms. You can get them at Lowes. It's the same type of closed cell foam that you can get one the internet or kayak stores in thicker pieces. These are thinner so i just glue them together, its much cheaper than buying the thick 3" stuff. This pack of 4 was only 20 bucks plus I don't have to wait for shipping.
Make your pattern, then cut up a few layers. We will shape it later so it doesn't have to be perfect, but the more accurate it is now, the easier it is to make them stick when you tie it together.
Apply your contact cement between the layers and tie it all up tight. With contact cement more doesn't mean better, it actually slides around a whole lot when you gob it on. I like to stick some nails through it to keep it from doing so. Be sure you get it pressed really tight around the edges. Let this dry at least a day as well. You don't want it peeling apart.
Remove the string.
I wanted my seat pretty square. I just use a serrated knife from the kitchen to shape and trim the foam. If you want to round your seat more or put some more blended shaping to it a really toothy rasp works very well.
And just to keep you interested, this is the finished product.
To be Continued.... i'll finish up posting the upholstery process tonight or tomorrow.