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Good/bad idea: putting vacuum on Shovel case?

9K views 40 replies 14 participants last post by  TigerAlex 
#1 ·
I am getting get bad plug fouling in my 75 Super Glide. Both before and after rebuild. She runs/starts OK more or less despite the fouling, mostly thanks to the Daytona Twin Tech 1005 ignition (which I am very happy with).

She always fouled plugs before the rebuild, regardless of my riding habits. Post-rebuild (went from very worn 86" stroker crank and jugs to stock late-shovel 80" setup) she did not foul plugs so much. Then I moved houses (got a garage, finally!) and started a longer commute which involved higher speeds, i.e. using the HOV lanes. I thought high-speed runs would get her hot and help burn out fouling, but it seems like the opposite.

I have been told the fouling is typical in shovels, and it's because of the loose tolerances letting oil by, better to have too much than too little. I compensated in years past by using straight 70W in the summer months. It seems to seep by less. I am about to buy some more. I was using 20W-50 since the rebuild. (OK, I was being lazy and getting my oil two blocks away at Advance Auto, who carry 20W-50 and 10W-40 now in most stores.)

I've made good progress on reducing leaks on the ground, dealing with the usual leaks prone to shovels, and trying to do what I can. The breather hose puffs and chuffs, and drops oil, but that's not unusual, though I wish it didn't.

The issue of HP, leaks and fouling have all been on my mind for a while. I ride a Shovelhead after all...

After reading some of the ideas in KCgran's thread on Horsepower ideas, http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178234 I wonder, has anyone noticed less fouling after putting vacuum in the bottom end? More HP is nice, but I've got enough to get to work. But helping rid fouling, that would be nice. And it seems easier than trying to set up a water vapor rig, which I've also been led to believe will help.
See comment in this thread from servi53 http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127657&highlight=vacuum&page=2

At this time, she eats over a quart of oil a month. I had already stopped up the chain oiler mind you, and use PJ1 on the chain. Nearly all this consumption is internal. I'd like to stop that.

If vacuum on the lower end will help with oil in the combustion chamber, I'm game to try it. However, it occurs to me that the leaks could be from the top end, in which case I doubt vacuum would help.

I'm interested in opinions. It'll be a while before I undertake this even if it promises to work, mostly because of summer work to do and other repairs around the house. (This never happened when I didn't have a garage...)

Alternatively, I could spring for a spark plug cleaner attachment for my air compressor, some extra sets of plugs, and just make replacement a monthly maintenance check. But that is treating the symptoms...

Thanks for your feedback in advance.

Alex
 
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#35 ·
Weekend update: I checked the front cyl. pushrods yesterday and they are textbook perfect so now I'll see about putting together a leakdown test. Thanks for the idea HD7974, I'll see what I can clooge together.

johnjzjz, thanks for the pictures. Neat stuff.

I also need to grab my inspection camera and see what I can see in the valve stems and cylinders. Will go ahead and clean the air breather while I'm in there.

All the tips and comments are much appreciated. Thanks again.

TigerAlex
 
#36 ·
If you have the intake and exhaust off, you can put a light in the spark plug hole and if the valves are bent, you should see light in the intake or exhaust port.....if the shop is dark enough. With your inspection camera in the ports you should see it also.

I would do this with the pushrods out to assure the valves are closed.
 
#37 ·
Update: I plan to do some inspecting and leakdown this weekend.

New question: why has my oil pump pressure sensor started leaking heavily, the second one in just under a year? Is it possible to have TOO much oil pressure? Could that be contributing to my oil fouling? Is it even possible to adjust the pressure on an S&S oil pump? It's only about 2 years old, was replaced with new during the rebuild I mentioned.

Confused, and mad that I blew out two quarts of oil on the short ride home yesterday... I've got a 1/4" NPT brass plug in the hole now, which leaks far less...

Alex
 
#38 ·
Update: I plan to do some inspecting and leakdown this weekend.

New question: why has my oil pump pressure sensor started leaking heavily, the second one in just under a year? Is it possible to have TOO much oil pressure? Could that be contributing to my oil fouling? Is it even possible to adjust the pressure on an S&S oil pump? It's only about 2 years old, was replaced with new during the rebuild I mentioned.

Confused, and mad that I blew out two quarts of oil on the short ride home yesterday... I've got a 1/4" NPT brass plug in the hole now, which leaks far less...

Alex
the fitting at the top to the far right side of the oil pump is the pressure relief valve, and its spring - pull the cap off pull out the spring and with a pen type magnet, see if the relief valve is free when removing it - clean re replace it all if its is free, just note what color is the spring they have stronger ones usually you need a stronger one not a weaker one -

MY guess the china pressure switches you have bought are garbage as they always are, and leaking it what they seem to do best
 
#39 ·
I'm so tired of being force fed junk parts. I'm willing to pay for quality yet the suppliers/dealers aren't interested in selling good parts. The amount of time I spend seeking out quality pisses me off sometimes because the counter people haven't a clue what a quality part is.

And the saddest thing of all is even if it says Made In USA that's no longer a guarantee that's it's quality. Fucking heartbreaking if ya ask me.

Sorry but I just had to say that.
 
#40 · (Edited)
johnjzjz, thanks, I will look at that.

geezer, I hear ya'. I think this dead one is an Accel, I got it from that same shop that "fixed" my bike last time. I was in a bind then, and they had it in stock. I just bought a US-made sensor switch online a few minutes ago, hoping it holds. It's from Standard Motor Supply, I think. The other choice was V-Twin, and I'll buy theirs next if this one fails. Before the new oil pump, the last sensor lasted about 8 years... jeez.

Have a great 4th!

Alex
 
#41 · (Edited)
Well, doesn't look like a leak down test is needed. A view into the cyl with my digital inspection camera shows about 2 dozen deep vertical scores in the walls. I have no clue how it happened, but now I'll have to go have her bored out. So much for an easy fix. Probably related to refitting the helicoil of the plug threads. Despite very careful cleaning. It was just putting the thread insert back in, no cutting. Still maybe something got knocked loose during the swaging. There is a local Indy shop I'll call and see if they might be able to get her done while I'm out of town for a week later this month. I hate losing riding time.
Once we get this sorted, I'll resume this thread, if I have any money left!
Alex
 
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