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Old 04-25-2010, 11:30 PM   #1
Concrete B
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Default spraybomb problems...wtf?

OK, so I spraybombed a tank and fender and loved how it came out, except for some lifting from the tape. I made an attempt at repairing it and did not like the outcome, so I decided to try again. After all, it was easy enough the first time.

So I sanded off the graphics and scuffed the base, and applied one coat of primer. The primer scaled up and peeled in a few spots, so I sanded that off and tried to apply the base coat instead of primer, and it also scaled and peeled. It was scuffed well and wiped with pre-clean before spraying. At this point I'm sure I'll have to take it back to steel and start over. Fair enough, chalk it up to learning.

What I'm looking for is maybe a hint from a pro here, or at least an explanation of what caused it so I can avoid the problems of the paint lifting with the tape, and this scaling issue next time.

Edit: It was relatively mild temp, maybe 60ish and not noticably humid, in case that's relevant.
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:34 PM   #2
La Dolce
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

I think I've heard you want to use the green tape. What you use?
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:46 PM   #3
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

also the paints gotta cure not just dry id sand wipe with water leave a day or so wipe with a tack cloth lightly then try again
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:04 AM   #4
Destralo Roach
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Yeah, over 70 is best.......Roach.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:06 AM   #5
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

I masked the design with thin tape from the auto paint store. Filled in the gaps with some silver I got from a dupont rep, so I doubt the tape was the problem. Should I scuff the base prior to adding a graphic? Most of it adhered well.

I let the base set for about 18 hours to make sure it was dried enough, it sets kinda wet, and I didn't want the tape to mess it up. My cure all is going to be to use an exacto knife to trace the tape before I pull it.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:08 AM   #6
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Destralo Roach View Post
Yeah, over 70 is best.......Roach.
I doubt it was 70 the day I shot it the first time, but maybe. I could always fire up the heater if needed, or fire up the ol' shop lights.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:10 AM   #7
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

What kind of spray bomb are we talking about. What brand paint are you using. Some spray paint brands require you to recoat within 2 hours or wait at least 48 before recoating or in your case adding design or graphics.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Concrete B View Post
I masked the design with thin tape from the auto paint store. Filled in the gaps with some silver I got from a dupont rep, so I doubt the tape was the problem. Should I scuff the base prior to adding a graphic? Most of it adhered well.

I let the base set for about 18 hours to make sure it was dried enough, it sets kinda wet, and I didn't want the tape to mess it up. My cure all is going to be to use an exacto knife to trace the tape before I pull it.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:12 AM   #8
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Had similar reoccurring problem one time. Ended up being the result of some WD 40 from a rag touching the surface accidentally by a coworker. Learned that any oil can cause the same problem. Solved problem with soapy water bath and then bead blasting.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:17 AM   #9
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Also, make sure you aren't using two different types of paint some don't mix well. Not trying to insult you intelligence or anything but its best to stick to the same brand/type if you can through primer base and clear if you can.

Another thing I have learned with tape lines is it is always better to do 2 or 3 light coats instead of one heavy.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:27 AM   #10
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

I'm using rustoleum gold metallic over rustoleum brown. I have done lots of reading up on painting, and painted a car before. I'm still a noob, just not 100% clueless. I could totally wait 48 hours to add the graphic. I will also try to coat lighter on the graphic. I'm doing lace and the lower color could have cured to the tape.

I also painted and cleared a few other parts already and they look good. I saved the tank and fender for last.

More insights welcome.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:44 AM   #11
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

When I use spray bombs, I make shure the heat is over 70' and heaters lights and heat gun pluss torch to make shure, pree heat the peice and keep the temp for at least 12hrs, dont let condensation form or it will fog....And wait for a month befor realy sanding it smooth or waxing at temp so the paint will harden, spray bombs take longer to harden compaird to pro paint...Roach.
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:54 AM   #12
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Shagy has a good point. light coats are best. start as light as you can, wait for the paint to flash and use light coats until it has good coverage. 70 degrees is perfect conditions but 60 should be fine as long as the humidity isn't high. I don't do a lot of graphics with spray bomb, usually base, clear but the principals are similar. wd40 or anything with silicone, wax, grease, or oil on the surface or even in the air can lift or fish eye paint so be aware of whats in your garage while painting.
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Old 04-26-2010, 01:22 AM   #13
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

take the tape off after only 5 or 10 minutes or else the paint will lift with the tape
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Old 04-26-2010, 01:33 AM   #14
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Curing the paint well and scuffing is the answer. Cellulose spray bomb paints can take many months to cure fully (if you can still smell the paint - even faintly - it ain't cured). Heat will help accellerate the process but you also need a good flow of air over the surface to extract the solvents. 48 hours should be OK before recoating but check the can. Scuff the surface with grey or purple Scotchbrite and make sure it's lightly but well scuffed where your tape edges are gonna be. I even scuff pro 2 pack paint before overcoating - I always believe in giving the next layer a good 'key' to grab onto.

To be extra safe use a low tack masking tape for general masking and 3M lining tape for the edges. It's low tack, gives a really sharp edge and can be warmed up with a hairdryer or heat gun set on low, to conform to fairly tight curves.

Oh, and keep petrol or any solvents well away from that nice new paint.

Cheers Johnny

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Old 04-26-2010, 02:09 AM   #15
Charlie S
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Once you get a couple inches of tape pulled, keep that tape low and as close to the tape still there and pull it towards you. It lessens the chance of lifting the paint, actually cuts a little cleaner edge. Been doin' this for a lot of years, has worked for me. And, I've heard good things about the green. Good luck.
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:12 AM   #16
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

I've used Rustoleum several times and it did the same thing. It has an extremely long curing time and acts as its own solvent if recoated too soon. Put down your base color and wait for a couple of days and you should have much better results.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:07 AM   #17
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

You prolly are aware of this, but do not use a lacquer paint over enamel. the solvents in the lacquer will attack the enamel and cause it to lift. You can however use enamel over lacquer. In my brief experience with spraybombs if the can don't say enamel it's lacquer. Dupli-color makes some nice metallics and I found out the hard way they are lacquer base. You might be able to get away with if what your painting over has a clear coat only lightly sand without breaking thru the clear and it shoud be okay. I have had good luck with HOTSOS method above removing masking low and away from the edge after 5 or 10 mins.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:33 AM   #18
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Charlie nailed it. You must pull the tape at 180 degrees to itself. Pulling at 90 or even 45 degrees will not work, ever!

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Old 04-26-2010, 10:45 AM   #19
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

Lots of great tips here. Probably get to do this again tomorrow. I'll check out the compatability of all of my paints. I'm thinking the first color in the lace dried to the tape, so I'll move faster and pull the tape in the manner above. I used to know that, but couldn't remember the trick.

Open to more ideas, but you've all been helpful.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:46 AM   #20
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Default Re: spraybomb problems...wtf?

When I use a spraybomb, I fill a sink with hot water from the tap- as hot as it can get, then let the spraybomb sit in it for a few minutes- it heats the paint up and it flows beautifully out of the can- i know you are not supposed to heat spraybombs, so i would not advocate using this method- but it lays down a really smooth paint- i also am very careful to wipe the can completely dry when i pull it out of the sink so that no water will drop on my piece
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