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Old 10-17-2019, 05:21 PM   #21
Ratso
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Just for the pleasure of wrassling this thread a little off-topic:

Aren't you supposed to always replace rod bolts? Are they not designed to stretch, first time they're correctly torqued?
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Old 10-19-2019, 09:04 AM   #22
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Yeah every engine ive ever rebuilt, motorcycle, automotive, or marine suggests you replace rod and head bolts for reassembly. (I dont unless im building something radical or ot looks to be damaged) I think the machine work may have been the culprit or the rod bolt was defective. I doubt the rod bolts have significant stretch with the torque they require. I did notice that all of the hardware for this motor seems to be low quality steel and threads damage very easily. I ordered a couple 5/16 26 tpi taps at work so ill be threading some hex shaft and making new nuts for most of my hardware including my rod end nuts. I'll also be making some nuts with that thread in 7/16 hex so that one impossible nut in the center of the motor to split the cases will be easy to deal with next time.
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Old 10-19-2019, 10:57 PM   #23
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Cool.

I suppose that if that central nut is nearly inaccessible, it's also nearly unphotographable. I don't know BSA twins (or much else, really). If it's no great inconvenience, would you somehow show the soon-to-be-7/16" nut you're talking about?
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:34 PM   #24
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So I have been cleaning, a lot. Got the crank journals polished up and it appears that every oil port is completely clogged (compressed air isnt even getting through the ports) so ill be getting small pipe cleaners to clean those a little better. I measured everything today and i will be using the old cam bushings and timing bushing because they have very little wear and measured within the correct tolerence. The crank and cam are also in good shape after a hand polish.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:42 PM   #25
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The speedo on this bike said it had 6785 miles on it. You never really know if thats true or not but most of what ive found to be damaged in the engine is due to rust and sitting oil that turned to hard crud. But i did find that one rocker nut was different than oem and eventually found the oem nut jammed between the lifter and cam. This caused the valve to kiss a piston and bend a pushrod and wipe out a cam lobe. Thats why the bike got parked and hasnt been registered since 1977. (The cam im using for the engine now came out of a spare case that came with the bike. It had an extra crank, cam, set of rods and a few little parts left bolted to it)
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Old 10-22-2019, 03:44 PM   #26
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Very good
Nice to diagnose the fault and progress confidently
Nice job
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:23 PM   #27
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Mike and Ratso,

Thanks for tips on re-use of rod bolts. I won't make that mistake again ;-0

Jason
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Old 10-28-2019, 12:42 PM   #28
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Got the crank polished up and installed to check the crank float, it had one .005 thick shim already so it looks like one more .005 shim and i will be right at the acceptable .003 float. I wish i would have ordered a shim pack with the seals that just came yesterday.
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Old 10-28-2019, 01:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratso View Post
Cool.

I suppose that if that central nut is nearly inaccessible, it's also nearly unphotographable. I don't know BSA twins (or much else, really). If it's no great inconvenience, would you somehow show the soon-to-be-7/16" nut you're talking about?
This is the nut im talking about. A 1/4 w socket fits the nut but wont clear the casting of the engine for the socket to fit. So i ended up machining a 13mm socket down to basically paper thin and tapping it on with a hammer to remove the nut. Now I drilled and tapped standard 7/16" hex bar to make a 5/1626 nut that a 7/16" socket will fit easily with no clearance issues
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Old 10-29-2019, 11:34 AM   #30
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Looks like you're doing it right! Nice work.

Are you using the steel cup/washer that guards the shim(s) from rubbing on the case? I think the .005" shim wouldn't last long otherwise. Are these the same pieces you took out when you disassembled?

That nut is a pain. I also skimmed down a socket to get that one off. Also just like you, I've made new nuts with less "meat" in them to use a normal socket in obstructed positions like that one.

Looks like you're having fun.

Looking forward to seeing the end result.

Jason
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Old 10-29-2019, 04:10 PM   #31
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Thanks Jason, yeah it had the cup with a .005 when i disassembled it. Ive gotta order the shim kit from classic British spares friday. The only .010 or .005 material i had at work has already been cut into circular shims but they're too big. I still have to repair the crank sludge trap plug threads and plastiguage the rods to make sure all is well before assembling the lower end for good.

What are you guys using to seal the case halves??

I was thinking gray rtv silicone because i love that stuff and if i have to split the case again later i know they will separate.
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Old 10-29-2019, 05:20 PM   #32
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Thanks for showing us your intractable nut. Criminally odd engineering there (BSA's, not yours).
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:07 PM   #33
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Yes to RTV
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:42 AM   #34
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

RTV works nicely, but I have taken a liking to Threebond myself.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:07 PM   #35
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Another vote for Threebond or the equivalent (#1104).

Jason
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:58 AM   #36
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Ok ill look into getting some threebond. What kind of rod bearing clearence should i look for with these motors? Should i still follow the .001 per inch journal size so i would be looking for about .0016-.0020? Or does bsa have a different clearance spec. I couldn't find this info in my workshop manual.
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Old 11-01-2019, 12:02 PM   #37
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Are these sheered off bolts in the head that need to be removed or what? I cant tell from my parts book but it doesnt look right to me. I dont have another head to check.
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Old 11-01-2019, 06:00 PM   #38
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeJustice55 View Post
Ok ill look into getting some threebond. What kind of rod bearing clearence should i look for with these motors? Should i still follow the .001 per inch journal size so i would be looking for about .0016-.0020? Or does bsa have a different clearance spec. I couldn't find this info in my workshop manual.
BSA manual spec for big-end radial clearance is .001" to .0025".

Here's the full shop manual for you to download: BSA Twin Shop Manual

Jason
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Old 11-01-2019, 06:02 PM   #39
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

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Are these sheered off bolts in the head that need to be removed or what? I cant tell from my parts book but it doesnt look right to me. I dont have another head to check.
Those look like welch plugs to me. Look at the rocker arm feed bore. It's directly in-line with one of the plugs.

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Old 11-02-2019, 02:03 AM   #40
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Ok nothing to worry about there then if the plugs are supposed to be there. Thanks for the info Jason, hopefully my parts will come over the weekend and i can actually start making some forward progress now.
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