1966 Bsa 650 on a budget - Page 5 - The Jockey Journal Board

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Old 12-08-2019, 12:31 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Larry Ritchey View Post
That's a lot of work to get HD bearings on the neck. I have a 68 TR6 and have a sporty front end on it. I machined off the brake and fender tabs and welded a tab on the right leg to fit the Triumph brake drum. Lobrow sells adapters for the neck bearings to install the sporty trees. Is your Beezer different?? Thought they might be the same.
I think it is the same and i could have bought a kit but i dont mind making stuff like that on my breaks at work. Plus i wanted to do the spacer to help lower the front a bit more.
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Old 12-09-2019, 10:14 AM   #82
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So I took the oil pump apart marked all of the gears cleaned and inspected everything very well and reassembled it. Now if i tighten the 4 bolts on the rear more than finger tight it gets very hard to turn. Now i did clean all mating surfaces and base surface with 1000 grit wet sandpaper with wd 40. I dont think i removed any material but maybe i did and the assembly is too tight now? Any ideas? It was too tight before i started to roll over with my fingers but a straight slot screw driver did it fairly easily.
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Old 12-09-2019, 10:31 AM   #83
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Update, if it gets tight, dont try to turn it with a screwdriver. I broke it. Now i have to look when I get home from work and hope i have another oil pump or parts for one.
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Old 12-09-2019, 01:51 PM   #84
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Are you going to use a tachometer on it? If not you don't need both drive tabs to be there and you can still use the same drive gear.
This has happened to me almost every time I have taken apart one of these for cleaning. Sometimes you have to fiddle with the gears to get it to turn smoothly. Other times it may be necessary to lap the face of the gears slightly to get things to loosen up...generally speaking they are a little stiff to turn when they are set up properly anyway.
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:21 AM   #85
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Are you going to use a tachometer on it? If not you don't need both drive tabs to be there and you can still use the same drive gear.
This has happened to me almost every time I have taken apart one of these for cleaning. Sometimes you have to fiddle with the gears to get it to turn smoothly. Other times it may be necessary to lap the face of the gears slightly to get things to loosen up...generally speaking they are a little stiff to turn when they are set up properly anyway.
I dont plan on running any guages on it but i did find another oil pump in my shed. I remember i took one apart before and it had a piece of hardened metal jammed between 2 gears. This is probably the one. I may take the tach drive out of that one and put it on this one. Im going to try to face the gears as well, maybe .0005 will make it spin a little easier. Even with the bolts finger tight spinning it with a screwdriver it pumped very well. I wanted to replace the oring and make sure it all looked good. The oring cracked when i took it out so it definitely needed to be replaced.
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Old 12-10-2019, 06:06 PM   #86
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Hmm. I had posted about oil pumps but can't find it now . . .

If you can, replaced this pump with a later model "D" or "DD" pump (as identified by stamp on body/nose). These are doweled to ensure proper alignment between body and nose which could cause binding of tach shaft or pump gears.

The early ones are a sketchy collection of loose parts that depend entirely on precise assembly and torque down to ensure free operation.

I think the later ones came out in '67 or '68 but am not sure.

There is a later cast iron version but I'm told they are rare as hen's teeth. I've never seen one in real life.

I have no experience with the SRM pump.

Jason

p.s. - if commiseration salves your state of mind, take comfort in knowing that breakage of the tach drive is super common. I'll leave this here to make you feel better ;-0

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Old 12-10-2019, 09:29 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by JasonMcElroy View Post
Hmm. I had posted about oil pumps but can't find it now . . .

If you can, replaced this pump with a later model "D" or "DD" pump (as identified by stamp on body/nose). These are doweled to ensure proper alignment between body and nose which could cause binding of tach shaft or pump gears.

The early ones are a sketchy collection of loose parts that depend entirely on precise assembly and torque down to ensure free operation.

I think the later ones came out in '67 or '68 but am not sure.

There is a later cast iron version but I'm told they are rare as hen's teeth. I've never seen one in real life.

I have no experience with the SRM pump.

Jason

p.s. - if commiseration salves your state of mind, take comfort in knowing that breakage of the tach drive is super common. I'll leave this here to make you feel better ;-0

Lol thanks. I took it apart again today and faced the gears with 600grit then 1500 grit wet paper and reassembled and it rolls over nice now. Still a little too tight to do with my fingers but easy with pliers. Not running a tach anyway so its ready to bolt up. I looked to see if i had a later dowel style or a cast iron one but no luck. I have the worst design but it seems to pump really well.
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Old 12-23-2019, 04:57 PM   #88
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Made good progress last week, put new bearings and races in the wheels, new fork tube seals, Shaved the fender mounts off of the legs. Bought some shinko super classic tires and mounted them on the rims after i sandblasted and etching primed them. Now i have it where i want it ill make a jig to mount the rear axle plates where i want them and tack them in place and bring the back half home and tig it up. I dont have correct axles so i need to make some or find some at the local bike scrap yard. Not buying stuff like that new when $5 can get one in good shape.
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:56 PM   #89
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

I was wondering about the length, but now that you have the wheels/tires on it looks good. Still wondering about the flex though...going to be interesting.
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Old 12-24-2019, 08:39 AM   #90
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I was wondering about the length, but now that you have the wheels/tires on it looks good. Still wondering about the flex though...going to be interesting.
Yeah. I want to keep the rear open so it looks like a hardtail but im worried about flex too. I am going to put a cross brace in to stiffen it up just in case. Plus the original plan was a 6" stretch but this tire was bigger than i thought so its going to end up being a 7 1/2" stretch.
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Old 12-24-2019, 11:18 AM   #91
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

If it isn't already clear that I think your BSA is going to come out good, and that I admire your eyeball and skills, I do. So this question from the peanut gallery is asked with due respect and no intention to snipe at your decisions.

Does it seem maybe kind of backwards to predicate a big decision (length of rear frame) on the dimensions of a single, consumable, relatively cheap thing like a tire?

I'm asking because to my mind, it's easy to go too long with a hardtail on a British bike or any vertical twin. Too much empty space around it, and the engine (properly, I think, the bike's focal point) begins to look runty and insignificant. I was sweating the 6" extension; 7.5" is making my nose run as well.

Honest, I mean no criticism and obviously my aesthetic opinions are worth every dollar I'm charging you for them. And again, could be I'm missing something major about what you've got planned. As long as you like the result, that's what counts, to the exclusion of every other consideration or opinion.
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Old 12-24-2019, 08:09 PM   #92
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If it isn't already clear that I think your BSA is going to come out good, and that I admire your eyeball and skills, I do. So this question from the peanut gallery is asked with due respect and no intention to snipe at your decisions.

Does it seem maybe kind of backwards to predicate a big decision (length of rear frame) on the dimensions of a single, consumable, relatively cheap thing like a tire?

I'm asking because to my mind, it's easy to go too long with a hardtail on a British bike or any vertical twin. Too much empty space around it, and the engine (properly, I think, the bike's focal point) begins to look runty and insignificant. I was sweating the 6" extension; 7.5" is making my nose run as well.

Honest, I mean no criticism and obviously my aesthetic opinions are worth every dollar I'm charging you for them. And again, could be I'm missing something major about what you've got planned. As long as you like the result, that's what counts, to the exclusion of every other consideration or opinion.
I think itll still look good because the tire takes up the other 2 inches. And no worries about criticism. I am impossible to offend and like to hear other peoples point of view. I do plan on putting a nice battery box, coils, and an custom oil tank behind the motor to fill the gap. It should look good but if I dont like it ill change it.
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Old 12-27-2019, 02:56 PM   #93
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So i finally finished the rear portion of the frame today. It too 2 tries though. First time i welded the axle plates in i didnt do enough tacks and when i did my first stitch it picked up the other side about 1/8" so i had to cut it off and do it again. I got it just about perfect now. So then i welded in the supports to make sure it doesnt flex and it feels very rigid now. I should be able to mount the wheels now and make it a roller to start assembling. I cut a ball bearing to cap the ends of my frame i think it turned out cool.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:08 AM   #94
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Made an oil tank and tig welded it up this week at work and made some rear axle spacers.
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Old 01-11-2020, 08:58 AM   #95
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Nice looking piece of work!
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:08 AM   #96
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I havent been getting as much done as fast as i would like but im slowly making progress. I made this chain tensioner throughout the week on my breaks. Its a simple design but i havent really seen any like it. It has 2 inches of stroke and cost me $14 in materials. (The brass was something i used as a big punch for putting in bearings and races. Sacrifice worth the reward) the wheel material is teflon left over from an old job we did a while back in the shop.
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Old 01-18-2020, 06:27 AM   #97
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

Do rigids need tensioners?
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Old 01-18-2020, 07:44 AM   #98
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Do rigids need tensioners?
No, the suspension doesnt move so its not necessary unless you stretch it. Then you can put one on to help control chain flop. I have had a few hartails with 2"-6" stretch and never needed a tensioner.
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:45 AM   #99
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Default Re: 1966 Bsa 650 on a budget

I believe you would want the tensioner on the low part...
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Old 01-21-2020, 08:25 PM   #100
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I believe you would want the tensioner on the low part...
With the shock mounted topside when it compresses it creates slack on the top of the chain when the subframe pivots. Im hoping this will stop that.
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