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Old 04-05-2015, 11:30 AM   #1
Krause95
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Default S&S Super E tuning question

Just got my bike running and it starts good, idles good, no problems there. After I get up to speed while riding still no problems until I stop. Once I come to a stop the engine snubs out like it's not getting enough fuel. After that it starts fine and rides fine until I stop again where the same thing happens. What's going on and what needs to be ajusted?

Thanks guys!
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Old 04-05-2015, 11:44 AM   #2
johnjzjz
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

i would like a little more info on the bikes set up -

shovel - pan knuckel - evo - sporty ?????

waay to many things to type all possables -- but it sounds vacuum leak maybe - or ignition retarding way to much - or even the float level drounding it on the brakes
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:36 PM   #3
Krause95
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It's a shovelhead running an electronic ignition. It could very well be out of time because I just put the ignition in but it sounds, runs, and starts nice so I think it's a carb issue. And it starts fine after it dies so I don't think its flooding.
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:40 PM   #4
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

What happens if you pull the enrichener when coming to a stop?
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:58 PM   #5
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

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Originally Posted by Krause95 View Post
It's a shovelhead running an electronic ignition. It could very well be out of time because I just put the ignition in but it sounds, runs, and starts nice so I think it's a carb issue. And it starts fine after it dies so I don't think its flooding.
what type of electronic ignition remember your asking foir help with really no real info about what you have to answer questions with

2 did you follow the directions or what when installing the new ignition

3 if its a dyna magnet type with an advancer behind it did you also replace the advanser ??? kind of thing ???
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:20 AM   #6
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

I had a similar issue, turned out to be a corroded ignition wire connection that would intermittently kill the bike when it warmed up…just saying…sounds 'lectrical…
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:44 PM   #7
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It's the dyna type. Have not replaced anything. When I had it in my bike before it ran fine. I followed instructions when putting it in.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:05 PM   #8
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

Could the dyna be heating up and dying like the older hi-4's used to do?
If you think it's ignition, it's probably fuel and visa-versa... At least in my experience.

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Old 04-09-2015, 08:07 AM   #9
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

I think john is on the right track. Could be the advance unit opens it doesn't shut back down when it idles until the motor dies and the centrifugal force stops. When the motor stops spinning it relaxes to its normal idle position then you can fire it right back up and start the process all over again. Is this where you were going john?
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:24 AM   #10
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

interesting, that that makes sense for sure, should I just loosen up my ignition then so it spins more freely?
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:40 AM   #11
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

You'd want to grease up the posts and weights. Not to chide, but you should know how to do this; it's a maintenance chore that needs to be performed every once in a while. The ignition plate itself stays locked down on the standoffs; don't loosen that up!

You could also have egged-out holes affecting things. I was at buckman50s shop last night, picking over some parts he was going to 86. One of the items was a weights assembly, and the holes were so oval-ed I couldn't believe it would have gone that far. The posts damn near wore through the thin part of the weights.

You need to double check all that shit before you try to troubleshoot carb, IMO.
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Old 04-09-2015, 03:49 PM   #12
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Default Re: S&S Super E tuning question

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Originally Posted by KCgran View Post
I think john is on the right track. Could be the advance unit opens it doesn't shut back down when it idles until the motor dies and the centrifugal force stops. When the motor stops spinning it relaxes to its normal idle position then you can fire it right back up and start the process all over again. Is this where you were going john?
every bike like that, that comes in the shop with runing issues the weight arms are loose or has a weak and or broken spring - i keep the cyn units in stock and the ones i only buy come with small ball bearings for the arms, as they swing on the posts and they the bearinged units last Waaay longer then the china tin crap most sell
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