Home made workshop tools

[crawler07]

that looks great! Are those just bearing your using for dies?

[knuckleworks]

Originally Posted by crawler07

that looks great! Are those just bearing your using for dies?

yes of the shelf parts

the lower die is curved but i would like tho have one with even more radius on,still trying to figure out how to do them (regarding material and hardening)

i can post a how to if people like it so you can make your own,in the tech board i guess??
i'm new here and still figureing stuff out on this awesom site

[Dragon]

Originally Posted by knuckleworks

i can post a how to if people like it so you can make your own,in the tech board i guess??

i'm new here and still figureing stuff out on this awesom site

"Sticky" threads, though seemingly invisible, are there for a reason.

Like, advising one to search first for existing topic-threads before starting a new one.

And, the one on tech that explains it's an Archive board, where one can neither reply nor post new threads.

Feel free to share a home made tool how-to.....right on this thread here.


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[wathomas]

Towards the end of last winter I built a tire hammer (power hammer uses a spare tire with an electric motor pivoting against the spare as the drive clutch mechanism; dupont linkage and a crank pin to raise and lower the "hammer")

view as it was being built but shows mechanism better than other photos I have.

almost finished and standing upright

I built and use the power hammer for hot forging. Mine looks a bit rough as I used a stack of "short drops" for the anvil base and never painted or dolled it up. Oh yeh, before building the hammer also built the gas forge its in the upper right corner of first picture (when hammer was lying on its side and again in the second photo sitting on that yellow cart that i weld on).

Its just a scrap cannister linned with ceramic wool refractory fiber. Cannister I found at the scrap yard, cut opening in both ends and mounted a pipe fitting burner mechanism. Use a $5 flea market actelyene welding regulator (these threads also fit propane).


Got the inspiration to build these off the web seaches for propane forge and tire hammer on blacksmithing sites. I did n't have any justifiable need for a power hammer but realized I already had the material so decided to put it to use. The way it moves hot metal its impressive...[hope my garage floor survives].

[Cotten]

Folks,
Here is my Hone from Hell.

Powered by an inverted floor scrubber, the tank was an ordinary water pressure tank with a flip-over carriage made of 1" nylon plate to allow cylinders with torqueplates to be attacked from both ends with a minimum of compression stress.

A stainless salad bowl beneath holds honing oil and a Little Giant hydroponics pump. The Art Deako step was a kitchen table, and the tombstone shroud at the top was cut from a patio table.
The shift knob and foot pad are true billet aluminum that I cut and ran decades ago.
The vertical ram is internally spring-loaded, manually reciprocated by handlebars, what else. The effort involved is how the machine got its name.

And of course, it drives a Sunnen AN honing head.

Thanks for your indulgence,

....Cotten

[ChopperArn]

Originally Posted by cretin

I'm not understanding what's going on here. What am I missing?

its a ring compressor

[Frank D]

yes, yes, yes...a how-to on this English Wheel would be awesome!

[knuckleworks]

ok this is a WERY simple english wheel that i have made a bunch of now,there are no interchangeble dies,instead the dies are standard bearings (SKF) and the frame are standard box tubing,i'm a simple man with simple tools so have some tolerance ;D
all measurments are in millimeter (1inch=25,4mm) so you'll have to get your calculators to change the numbers
frame base,100X50X3-4mm
1= 490mm cut 45'
1= 530mm cut 45'
1= 400mm 90' both ends
weld the 45' bits together to form an L at 90',then weld the 400mm pice on the 530mm at 260mm from underneath the 490mm piece,now you have the base frame

cut a piece of 40X40X4 tubing to 250mm, i choose to do the ends in my lathe to make sure they are perfect,
,drill a 5mm hole 80mm from one end to tap 6mm tread and one 12mm hole 30mm from the other end countersink the edge on the 12mm

cut a piece of 32X32 solid bar to 170mm,

again do the ends on the lathe,

as you can see i have rounded the edges of the solid bar,this in tha lathe to make it fit inside the 40X40,drill one end with a 6mm drill 10mm rom the end and 7mm from the edge,after that drill one 18mm hole in the end of the bar,this for the up and down control of the lower die,

cut a treaded 20mm bar to 230mm and do one end like shown in the pic,outer diameter 18mm ,match the groove to the 6mm hole in the solid 32X32,


from a 90mm long M20 nut cut a a 30mm bit of then drill 3 holes to tread 8mm,

cut 3 pieces of 8mm bar and tread both ends to 8mm,10mm and 15mm long,

fit a 8mm nut to the 15mm end and a plastic knob to the 10mm,you now have 3 of these,

mount them to the 30mm M20 nut to create this,it's the handle for adjusting the lower die

[knuckleworks]

drill and tap a 6mm hole in a 90mm M20 nut 40mm from one end

match these peices and put them together like this,32X32,treaded bar and M20 nut and slide it in to the 40X40mm

make sure to cut a groove in the end of the treaded 20mm bar or else you cant dismantle the unit later on

put the pieces togehter and line them up like this and tack weld the 20mm nut make sure you can turn it and it don't bind,

remove the treaded bar and weld the nut firmly and grind your welds down (if wanted),i again used the lathe to make this tidy finish to the bit,and here it's assembled again with treded bar and handle,

now it's time to make a simple jig fo make sure the upper and lower dies align,and for this i cut a bit of the 40X40 tube to 250mm,drill a 12mm hole 170mm from one end and cut an acces hole on the opposite side to gain acces to the hole from inside,

put the adjusting bit inside the jig,

cut a piece of 50X10mm flat bar to 100mm and drill and tap a 12mm hole 20mm from the edge

bolt it to the jig with the grease nipple holes in the adjuster facing you and align it to the frame base


if your happy with the alignment weld the adjuster and the 50X10 piece to the frame and grind down your welds (if needed)

now it's time to machine the bits that holds the bearings,one bit 25mmX35mm (widhtXdia) with 2 grooves 3mm from the edge for the locking rings,drill and tap a 6mm hole trouh it



and one bit 35mmX50mm (widthXdia) with a 12mm hole,NO grooves for locking rings yet!!

cut 2 pieces of 40X5mm 55mm long and drill and countersink a 6mm hole 15mm from one end in booth,
mount the lower bearing to the first bit machined and use 2 M6 by 16mm countersunk hexbolt to secure the unit to the 40X5 flat bar pieces,looking like this


fit the upper bearing to the 50mm bit and bolt it to the frame in the treaded hole using a M12X40 hex bolt

[knuckleworks]

adjust the adjuster so that the lower bearing assembly barely cleares the upper and align it as good as you can,


then spot weld the lower bearing mount to the adjuster

and remowe the bearings,use a scrap piece cut to 25mm to make sure the lower brackets stay in place,weld solid,and grind to desired finnish,now you can measure the upper bearing for the grooves
and machine them

desmantle and paint and refit all components
it shoul look something like this (maybe better)

[knuckleworks]

this 4 have the later adjuster in the how to

[knuckleworks]

it might look like it need stiffening but it's sturdy enough to make beaad marks in 1mm steel and then your applying to much force anyway,hope you like it and build your own version and post the result,maybe it will look alot better than mine so we all can learn more

//janne

[Lucky59]

//janne

Awesome tool/design, thanks!

Have a question. How good a fit do you need between the 32x32 bar and the 40x40x4 tube that it slides into, and how do you get the inside weld seam out of the 40x40? I've taken the seam out of square tube before, but it was a bitch.

Guy

[knuckleworks]

Originally Posted by Lucky59

//janne

Awesome tool/design, thanks!

Have a question. How good a fit do you need between the 32x32 bar and the 40x40x4 tube that it slides into, and how do you get the inside weld seam out of the 40x40? I've taken the seam out of square tube before, but it was a bitch.

Guy

thanx
i have a wery complex way of dealing with that,,,,,,,, just kidding i use a 2,2 mm or similar cutting disc and make a groove in the 32x32 along it's entire length

when fabing the peices detirmine how you are going to put the 32 in the 40 right away and stick to that i tried to remove the weld first but to no need,the 32 fits firmly enough inside the 40

[knuckleworks]

i think the groove is slightly visible in one pic

[Lucky59]

The eyes aren't what they used to be I guess .

I know I won't find that tubing down at the steel yard here and since we don't make anything in this country anymore I'm afraid to order some anyway, so I'll most likely fit the bar to what ever I find, just wanted to know how nice it should fit more than anything. I remember when we made 4130 in this country and was so accurately drawn it didn't need any machining to correct for size, it was what they said it would be. As you probably know, not any more with the import stuff.

[knuckleworks]

Originally Posted by Lucky59

The eyes aren't what they used to be I guess .

I know I won't find that tubing down at the steel yard here and since we don't make anything in this country anymore I'm afraid to order some anyway, so I'll most likely fit the bar to what ever I find, just wanted to know how nice it should fit more than anything. I remember when we made 4130 in this country and was so accurately drawn it didn't need any machining to correct for size, it was what they said it would be. As you probably know, not any more with the import stuff.

well the less movement in the adjuster the better,there's allways a way of getting it to allmost zero,and if you're buildeing for your own time doesn't matter
good luck with the wheel and post a pic of it when finished,have you Q's i will try and help

//janne

[DANGER]

Twisted twister
1/2" to 1-1/4" adjustable for up to 30" of twist, 1/2" cold. Made from iron bar and a old pipe threader.

[knuckleworks]

low comment ratio i think

[crawler07]

that twisted twister is the shit!!Keep the pics rollin in fellas, this is a cool thread...