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Old 05-14-2020, 09:49 AM   #21
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Default Re: Case stud question

Studs into the smooth part, stud and hole clean and dry, use Loctite 609. Will fill gaps of .005, you need this as the threads have some damage, from being removed with out heating. Removal of any Loctite is just add heat above 300f no big deal, as the studs are a class 5 interference fit and case should be heated for their removal anyway.
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Old 05-14-2020, 03:55 PM   #22
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Default Re: Case stud question

Use a shop vac to suck any debris that will fall out of the bottom of the stud holes before, during and after. Yes there will be all sorts of bad things fall onto the flywheels when doing this. Be aware that if you use brake cleaner or some other sort of spray cleaner, DON"T squirt it to the side, only forward or back. A side ways squirt will wash the debris over pinon or sprocket bearings.

A mid 70's shovel should have 10 fin cylinders with the thinner base flanges. Mid 78 or so they changed the castings to have 9 fins and thicker base flanges. Look for a casting number that ends with -66 for the thinner base flange or casting numbers that end with a -78 for the later thicker base flanges. The older engines had shorter cylinder studs than the later did. Only the later engines used the triangle shaped washers. Those later cylinders with the longer studs, thicker base flanges, triangle washers used a flanged nut the has a 9/16" hex. The older engines with the shorter studs, thin base flanges, no washers used a tall 5/8" outer hex size. Mix and match or even placing the washer upside down is a risk of cracking a cylinder base flange. If the washer don't fully seat flat on the base flange expect bad things soon.

I like the red or green high strength bearing or sleeve retainer types on the case end of the studs. There is no need or good reason to use Loctite on the cylinder base nuts to the studs. I use either an anti-seize compound or the ARP brand thread lube. Properly torqued base nuts will not work loose providing the base gaskets don't crush, split and spit out. Yes a few retorque sessions will be needed as paper base gaskets conform and shrink with time and use. Coated metal base gaskets are much less likely to crush down and loose base nut torque. The last 6-8 years I have only used an anaerobic type sealer without base gaskets for the cylinders on shovelheads and have far fewer oil leaks and zero retorquing needed. If you use sealer only and no gaskets, a little sealer is good and more is not better. Clean and dry surfaces without any oil film is a must for a sealer only without a gasket joint.
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Old 05-18-2020, 06:59 AM   #23
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Ok, stud is in. Our steps were as followed

1. Clean case hole with Q tips soaked in brake clean.

2. Used a small amount of cotton ripped of of a cotton ball to stuff down to the bottom of the case hole so it sat on top of the fly wheel. Used a pic to continue cleaning the threads. Clean out debris accordingly.

3. Slowly ran a tap through the hole to really clean up the threads. (They came out very nicely).

3. Used a long pic to remove the cotton I stuffed down the hole (which caught little junk that came out of the threads)

4. Once again, used q-tips to soak and clean up anything else left on the threads.

5. Duct taped a straw to a shop vac end, and used that to suck out any left over debris as well from inside the hole. (Maybe over kill but who knows). Worked nicely.

6. Cleaned up the stud that was pulled out, used red loctite, and sunk it back in to the depth that was needed. Letting it sit for 24 hours before assembling the jugs, heads, etc.

Thank you for all the advice. I used all that I had and am very confident in the repair.
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Old 05-18-2020, 05:09 PM   #24
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Default Re: Case stud question


For next time . . . don't run a tap down a hole where the threads are good. It only removes material and makes for a looser fit.

Buy a thread-chaser tap instead. These are for cleaning/straightening threads but don't remove material. Perfect for stud bosses and the like.

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