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Old 11-29-2018, 10:17 AM   #141
joe49
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Check our rod movement with the crank pin to the front of the engine were the most thrust is generated. As the play maybe greatest there, as wear is greatest on the power stroke side of the crank pin.
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Old 11-29-2018, 04:24 PM   #142
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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Check our rod movement with the crank pin to the front of the engine were the most thrust is generated. As the play maybe greatest there, as wear is greatest on the power stroke side of the crank pin.

I went to the local shop that has been recommended for Mid-Century bikes.
When he asked if he could help me, all i said was "panhead cylinders" and he shook his head and said " No". I explained that I have cylinders. I showed my jugs to him(insert bad joke) and he said "lower end problem". I explained my rod shake(insert bad joke) issue which he took me to a bench with fresh shovel short block. After lightly wiggling those rods(insert bad joke) I do believe a case splitting is in order.
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Old 11-30-2018, 02:51 PM   #143
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

The tab on the frame under the tanks you asked about is the throttle cable stop boss. Bike originally had hard push wire throttle. There was a clamp there to hold the outer cable. Depends on running a Linkert with the throttle plate arm at the top.

It's your frame, do whatever the fuck you want with it.

People that are inclined to bitch can go out and buy their own bike to preserve.

No real benefit to cutting it off though.

Jason
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:27 PM   #144
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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The tab on the frame under the tanks you asked about is the throttle cable stop boss. Bike originally had hard push wire throttle. There was a clamp there to hold the outer cable. Depends on running a Linkert with the throttle plate arm at the top.

It's your frame, do whatever the fuck you want with it.

People that are inclined to bitch can go out and buy their own bike to preserve.

No real benefit to cutting it off though.

Jason







"May" run sporty tank. Tab would have to go. I know...gremlin bell. Could be the real problem.



Solo seat so I "may" cut off rear peg mounts to clean up that part of the frame. This is what happens when you cant ride it and sit around smoking cigs and stare.
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:16 PM   #145
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My swing arm frame has that same gusset added and weld repair, I knew exactly what you were going to find under the cloth. My frame also has a repair just below that gusset. Follow straight down to the bottom of the frame then move about an inch towards the front of the bike. You might want to check your frame in that location.
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:52 AM   #146
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Good to know somebody is looking at this bucket of bolts.




Frame looks good, at least in the gusset/forging area. Thanks for the heads up (or heads under).




Slow going on my end. I did manage to "wander" into a friends shop that has a lathe. Having only watched someone turn a couple of things for me, I was hoping to get some time on the machine myself. Was shown how to turn it on and left to figure it out.


The results...Pan shock bolts nibbled to 1/2". Axle spacers. 1st spacer is a bit rough but next was far better.







I also picked up an oil tank. Well aged Santee. No provision for drain. Also has a bit of steel into the fill neck.








Any ideas on drain and neck? Shovel style dipstick/plug will not seat until neck is addressed.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:23 AM   #147
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Hello TATER, I have the same oil tank too. For the drain just take off the lowest line. The dipstick/plug that was with my tank was loose so im using one of those with a temp gauge, it fits nice and tight.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:50 AM   #148
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Nice. You cut threads on a manual lathe w/o instruction? Damn.
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:57 AM   #149
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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Hello TATER, I have the same oil tank too. For the drain just take off the lowest line. The dipstick/plug that was with my tank was loose so im using one of those with a temp gauge, it fits nice and tight.



I have been following your build and hoped you might chime in. I can only assume the battery tray you made was due to the frame not having the same mounts as BT frames. Thanks for the advise.



As far as dipsticks go, Most new aftermarket units fit great for about 1K miles and then the rubber hardens up and shrinks enough to leak. Cutting a portion off may allow that to happen sooner. I'm thinking of running a 1-1/8" hole saw down the filler to cut out the offending piece. It may be possible to pressurize the tank from 3/8's outlets to blow the "glitter" out while cutting. As long as I dont get cheap perfume on me, the wife wont think I've been at the titty bar.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:05 AM   #150
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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Nice. You cut threads on a manual lathe w/o instruction? Damn.



Cut threads ? No freaking way. Just trimmed the shank from 5/8 to 1/2.


BTW, the lathe is a 6 jaw, 3 phase monstrosity. 3/4" is as small as it will chuck up. I only fucked up 1 cutter running machine the wrong direction while beveling the inside edge of 1st spacer. What I really want to learn is how to radius.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:05 PM   #151
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

I hear what your saying, they can leak & if your lucky it will fly off ...mine did. They're cheap, I try to keep a spare in the saddle bag. Same with gas caps
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Old 01-13-2019, 01:26 PM   #152
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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Cut threads ? No freaking way. Just trimmed the shank from 5/8 to 1/2.


BTW, the lathe is a 6 jaw, 3 phase monstrosity. 3/4" is as small as it will chuck up. I only fucked up 1 cutter running machine the wrong direction while beveling the inside edge of 1st spacer. What I really want to learn is how to radius.

Damn and I thought we had a real savant.


Learn to grind a tool at the desired radius. Only way to do it clean and well the first time on a manual machine. Speed is crucial to a clean chatter free finish. Learn speeds and feeds for different materials. Generally the harder the material the slower speed/feed. There are exception as always. Using aluminum for awhile until you feel comfortable is best. Watch chips as they'll rip your flesh like a hot knife through butter. Respect the machine and you'll always have ten fingers for it has no respect for you.


If the radius isn't critical you can use a file and some sandpaper.



Here's a link to my dropbox. it's a small general instruction manual on hpw to use a lathe. You can print or save it as a PDF.
Click me
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:08 PM   #153
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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Cut threads ? No freaking way. Just trimmed the shank from 5/8 to 1/2.

BTW, the lathe is a 6 jaw, 3 phase monstrosity. 3/4" is as small as it will chuck up. I only fucked up 1 cutter running machine the wrong direction while beveling the inside edge of 1st spacer. What I really want to learn is how to radius.
You can do a lot with files and abrasives for starters.

Beyond that, there are many radius cutters that can be bought. You can also grind cutters to whatever radius you want, etc.

There are also attachments to create full spheres.
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:51 PM   #154
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

I was given a cylindrical aluminum oil tank that had once had a threaded cap, long since vanished. Somehow the internal threads in the tank spigot had gotten slutted out. To get to the point: I used a freeze plug for a cap, with a wingnut for ease of use. It lasted me for tens of thousands of miles without leaking or going AWOL, and is probably still working fine for the turd who stole the bike. Cost about $4.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:13 PM   #155
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

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Originally Posted by Just Passin' Thru... View Post
I hear what your saying, they can leak & if your lucky it will fly off ...mine did. They're cheap, I try to keep a spare in the saddle bag. Same with gas caps

I used a freeze plug for a cap, with a wingnut - Ratso


After looking again I decided to cut the plug. Better to wrap a bloody cut w an oily rag than fling the tank and splint a broken finger. All good, no wounds.


Freeze plug was the backup for the Shovel. Now that I am an expert machinist I bet some crazy idea for alum freeze plug/nut will come soon.
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:21 PM   #156
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Keep an eye on those shock studs when in use.

I've had them bend over time, especially the repop ones.

Did you cut those down from real oem parts (rock hard "harley metal" . . . try cutting a on old rear wheel spacer down some time to see what I'm talking about) or repop?

Your doing great work with this bike.

Nice.

Jason
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:26 PM   #157
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Speaking of lathes and threading . . . I just put this in my garage over the weekend. 1944 Navy South Bend Heavy 10. Amazing condition for its age.

Can't wait to get cutting again. VFD is in the mail.

Jason

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Old 01-14-2019, 03:31 PM   #158
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Beautiful! That's one for the Lathe Museum.
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Old 01-14-2019, 03:56 PM   #159
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Nah that's a perfectly usable light duty lathe.
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:41 PM   #160
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Default Re: Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

Damn, Jason. did you get it from an old lady who only drove it on Sundays ?


To answer the question.... re-pop shock stud. Replacing a bent re-pop shock stud. But its chrome and shiny. Thats the important part.
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