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Old 04-03-2019, 10:26 PM   #1
NZT100
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Default NZ Shovelhead build

We’ll, I thought it time for me to post a build thread on my shovelhead. I’ll give you the backstory from my first days of ownership.

So, I live in New Zealand and round here old Harleys are few and far between, so in 2014 I went looking to import a bike from the US. After a few months scouring Craigslist I found one I was pretty keen on, the money was right, I got it checked out and pulled the trigger. This is the pic of the bike on Craigslist, it had a few nice bits on it such as belt drive primary, early swingarm, juice drum brake, 21” front wheel, 3.5Gal tanks etc, rebuilt heads (apparently), I was pretty happy. I put it on a boat to NZ and after a 4 month wait it turned up.

All was good with the bike, it matched the pictures, was quite tidy, and ran. I had seen video of it run by the guy who picked the bike up and freighted it for me, but this was a relief to see it in person. The day I got it I changed the oil out, got it running, gave it a quick once over, and was off for a ride. Bear in mind this is the first time I’d ever ridden a HD….I was stoked and headed round to my mate Steves to show him. @Straightleg_steve on Instagram, he has a heap of cool old stuff and has been a mentor with the old HD big time for me. Cheers Steve for all your time and wisdom.

Here’s me arriving at Steves, this is about 30km from my house. Bike ran great on the ride over.

We hit the road, my shovel and Steves shovel. About 15 mins down the road i hear a faint tapping, just enough of a noise change to make me wonder, I pull over, we check It out, still running “fine”, but head back to check pushrod adjustment etc just in case. All checks out and we cant find anything obviously wrong, so back on the road. Noise goes away. So we make it about 30kms further from Steves to the pub, have a beer and then decide to head back. About 5kms back down the road the noise of a spanner being shaken in a tin can and a dead Shovelhead fills the air.

This is what we found. Dropped exhaust valve, lunched head. Bad times.






So we pulled the bike down immediately. At the end of the first day of Shovelhead ownership this is how my bike looked.



I rebuilt the motor, sent the whole thing to a specialist shop up North here in NZ. New bottom end to factory specs (it was well shot according to the builder), new S&S heads, a complete freshen up top to bottom. While it was apart i polished the rocker boxes and cam cover up too. I also did some research, motor should be an 80”, however, had 74” gear inside. We suspect the PO swapped out some good bits and slapped whatever he had laying around in for sale…lucky me. The motor was a real mismatch inside, different pushrods, wrong rotating assembly, valve retainers were different, not to mention the Timkens were knackered, apparently a rarity….yikes.






Got the bike running again after about a month, re-jetted the carb for the 74”, it ran mint, put new stainless bars on, got rid of some of the horrible bits on it, removed the dead electric start system and made some blanking plates up At this stage it looked like this..



Life was good again. 500km later and I go to start it and the kicker goes to shit. Right, gearbox overhaul time. Pulled it down and found this..





stripped kicker gears, worn bushing…big time. However, found some good, full Andrews gearset (like new) , Andrews mainshaft (stuffed), Jims countershaft. G-Box case is Custom chrome. It’s a bitsa. So, rebuilt that, machined the mainshaft spacer for an O-ring, new Andrews mainshaft and kicker gears, all new gaskets. Back in action.






Couple more miles down the road, wiring goes bad. I’ve learnt to always have tools on me riding this thing, had enough electrical tape to get me home. Partial re-wire was no major.

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Old 04-03-2019, 10:26 PM   #2
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Right now this is how the bike looks. It was a bit of a “troublehead” for a while there.



Anyways, the bike now runs great and I love it, learnt a lot, but I’ve always had a plan and a purpose for this bike. This is the next part of the story and one that I’ll be keeping you up to date on. Chopper time.

I’ve been collecting parts for a few years now. Some of them as below, HCI axle plates for the hardtail which we are building from scratch (Steves working on the jig right now, its a masterpiece), re-pop springer with Jammer top clamp (not using the long one, i built that for fun/another project, if you want the plans ask away!!), GME folded oil tank, 21” x 1.6” front wheel with Star hub (needs lacing) & drum brake, Wassell mid tunnel tank, NOS Avon Speedmaster 21” x 2.75”, Tin-primary setup etc, plus a heap of other bits as you can see.






I’ll be keeping a build thread going on here, I hope its interesting and fingers crossed I can put something cool together. This isn’t going to happen overnight, the bike will be at Steves and I now live in another city 4 hours drive away and don’t have a garage, I’ll be doing the 4 hour commute regularly to do this so bare with me. Luckily i work for a large engineering company so can potter with stuff here between weekends wrenching. I’ll do my best to capture all the cool small details of a project like this for you all.

Thanks for reading
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:27 PM   #3
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Mostly just copying this from the other forum for those that dont frequent there, sorry about some of the larger images.

So, ive been working away in the background getting bits and pieces buttoned up before the bike gets pulled down.

First thing I needed to do prior to lacing the front wheel was rebuild the star hub. Rather than rebuild to factory specs (even though the bearing races were in good condition) I decided to fit sealed roller bearings. I’ll detail the process and give some insight as to how I did this as I see people ask from time to time.

I used this link for the base of the work I did and made changes as i saw fit http://www.shovel-head.com/tech/fahr...conversion.pdf.
First, I machined the hub for 3x sealed bearings. I did 3 (2x at the brake end, and 1x at the star end), as by adding a 2nd at the star end I would have had to machine through to inline with the flange which I didn’t like the idea of, I used the widest bearing for the star end I could get my hands on so the load rating wasn’t drastically reduced. I used bearings 6204-2RS x 2 and 63004-2RS x 1.




Next, I machined the middle spacer, again, just a modified version of the above link to work with my 3 bearing setup. This was quite tricky as there is a double step portion to accommodate the steps in the axle which took some careful boring work. Also critical was getting the fits for the ID of the bearings to the sleeve right, and the width between the bearings so when its all snugged up the bearing can run fine. Got this all within 0.02mm.





Next, I did the axle spacers. I quickly modelled everything in Solidworks to get base dimensions, then tuned for "as built". I sat the hub on the axle with only the star side bearing in place, I then machined a dummy spacer from scrap tube as per my model to get things centred, and adjusted accordingly. Once this was done I took to the brake side. I knew I would have to shorten the drum sleeve, but by how much…same process as above accept now I have all bearings and the centre spacer installed in the hub. Measure and machine a dummy spacer, bolt all together and check centre. All was good so machined the star side from aluminium to finish length, and shortened the brake side sleeve to the spacer length I dummied. All done and ready to be laced to the rim.



Next, I’d seen the Wargasser juice drum anchor plates before and thought it a really nice solution for the juice drum brake stay. I had a couple of these cut from 6mm stainless at work on the laser. Oh yeah, I work at a really big engineering shop so have access to all sorts of cool gear….you name it we have it. I then machined a small lug out of SS and fused it in. Still needs a polish and some finishing work but its worked well.





Also, Steve gave me this sweet folded GME oil tank a few years back and I always knew I wanted to use it on this Shovel build. It needed an oil cap which I had laying around which fit perfectly, this will see a polish in the future. Originally it had the HD fittings on the tank with the odd flare and I wanted to make this more standardized for ease of making/buying lines and fittings, I came up with a plan.

I cut off the original HD fittings from the tank and replaced these with run of the mill JIC 37 degree flare fittings. I bought these with a thread on both ends so machined one end down to a weld prep and TIG’d them on. Hardline fittings for these use a cutting ring to seal the tube to the flare, so no flare is needed, just bend and cut the SS tube to length and assemble…easy. Furthermore, braided oil line and fittings are readily available for this flare type so getting flexible lines is a simple task now. Win win.



The tank had a bit of surface rust on both inside and outside. I bought blanking fittings for the JIC threads and oil drain, filled it with white vinegar and salt and left it for 2 days. Rinsed it out the next day and it was like new inside. Left all the plugs in it and gave a spray with CRC to stop any flash rust until it gets oil someday. Cleaning up the outside was a simple job with some a 240 grit pad on my orbital sander.
I’m super stoked with this oil tank and can’t wait to see it on the bike!!

I'm heading back to where the bike is located for the upcoming long weekend so will strip it down and drop the front wheel to be laced up while im at it. Pics to come.

By the way, if im being too wordy, or not enough pictures please let me know, trying to make this is enjoyable a read as possible.

Last edited by NZT100; 04-03-2019 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:27 PM   #4
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The weekend been saw the last days of the bike as it was, i snapped a few pics before it pulled it down. I truely did love how this bike looked...one day ill have another the same.




I pulled it down to a bare frame. Honestly it was good i did, i found alot of small issues that would have made it unsafe too ride and/or casued me gried given more miles. Here where we are at now..




Frame has been dropped for an acid bath to remove all the paint and crud, front hub and rim are being laced up, about a fortnight away for both. Today i had the new rear tyre fitted and did some cleaning work on the rear rim. The PO has painted the nice SS nipples blue which had to come off, luckily a good knife and some scotch bright were all that was needed to scrape it off. The crhome on the hub and rim was just sweetened up with some tin foil and water. Came up nice.





When i pulling the rear drum apart i found the brake shoes were stuffed, so will be ordering new ones there. Also, the rear sprocket is missing teeth and needs replacing, luckily i have a new one so today i ordered a 10-24UNC Helicoil kit to do the swap to capscrews as per Saddlebgrails method. http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/2011...ead-of-rivets/
Need to get a allen key for the drum bolts so that will be this weekends mission, will clean the drum up while im at it.
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:28 PM   #5
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Front wheel came in early so managed to get it all buttoned up. It's a 21" x 1.60" chrome steel rim that i had laced with SS spokes and nipples. Dropped it to the local bike shop and had them fit up the NOS 2.75" Avon...so the wheel set is officially done and im fizzing about how they've both come up!!




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Old 04-03-2019, 10:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Some updates.

Well things have been going slowly but surely..which is good. Rushing never results and a nice finished product. The big news is a pick my frame up from Steves this week...I'll come back to that.

In the meantime my trans was leaking so i ripped it down...this was the culprit.


I'd previously machined the MDG spacer for the o-ring, however it had picked up and torn. Upon closer inspection i wasn't happy with the machine work and expected this same issue would happen again as i dont believe i quite got the groove spot on when i first machined it.

So, in the gearbox i found -

-MDG end play way out of spec
-Countershaft thrust way out of spec
-MDG Bushing to mainshaft way over spec

So i machined a new MDG spacer, made a press tool and replaced the MDG bearing and honed ot size, added an O-ring to the groove present on the Andrews main drive gear, and re-assembled after a full clean down of everything. Good as new now.

IMG-6025
IMG-6050
IMG-6038
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:35 PM   #7
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

I love pic heavy build threads.

You're in full control, keep going.
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:36 PM   #8
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The interesting part here is the frame. I always planned to hard tail my frame and Steve said he wanted to do it, so of course off we went.

In order to do this we first needed a frame jig, so Steve built one. This is the ducks nuts of frame jigs. Built off of an original Panhead frame in mint condition, everything was machined from high grade aluminium and doweled for factory HD positions, as well as having full adjustability for the varying frame changes.

IMG-5827
IMG-5826
IMG-5825
IMG-5824
IMG-5822

Next, in order to get the lower rail bends the same as the Panhead frame Steve made a custom large radius former, and came up with a tricky bend solution to match the chain clearnace bend.

IMG-5823IMG-5817
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:39 PM   #9
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So got the frame home and did the last of the trimming, removed the factory dash mounts as well as a few other brackets and unnecessary tabs, came up good.

IMG-6085

I then test fitted the tank and cut off the front bracket as ill be using the split tank mounts at the front to mount this.

IMG-6088

I liked the way the lines were looking so i fitted up the front end and rear wheel to see what work was needed. Two small issues in the front...
1) The "Roller bearing conversion kit" had one incorrect bearing being it was too big on the ID and had no bottom bearing dust cover
2) The crown nut is incorrect and for loose bearings so causes clearance issues with the top clamp.
Both easy fixes and will suss in the coming weeks, no major hurry on these

IMG-6103
IMG-6105

Rear wheel fit good but will need some adjusting. The frame has pulled in just on the left meaning we are just off line, a bit of tweaking will have the rear wheel and brake on with no offset lacing to the wheel needed which is ideal. Will take care of this in a two weeks when im back at Steves.

Had to sit on it and test the Bluetooth handlebars out....risers are being worked on ATM, got something cool going on...if it works...

IMG-6108


In the meantime will be sorting the oil and gas tank mounting as well as gathering up fasteners for everything.
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Old 04-04-2019, 01:24 AM   #10
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Mother of God.

That's some frame jig. And everything else. Wild, thanks.
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Old 04-04-2019, 01:46 AM   #11
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

I approve of this build...

I really dig the shit out of it.

Wish I had a frame jig.

For a minute there I thought you were going to make a long bike...
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Old 04-04-2019, 01:53 AM   #12
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

The Paughco top clamp and its various chinese copies is not designed to work with a factory crown or in HD lingo Cone nut, you know the 'sprocket on top" kind. Paughco has its own crown nut with a hex on top.
Now here is where it gets tricky. Once you set the preload on the timkens there is nothing that keeps the crown nut from turning loosening the preload.
On the Paughco nut you can use the hex to jam the crown nut against the bottom of the top clamp but the sprocket needs the stock HD type of securing.
A stock HD top clamp has a little hole on the headlight side of the clamp and a sheetmetal cap covers the rear legs and has a pin that goes through that hole and engages the sprocket and keeps it from turning.
With the Paughco clamp and a sprocket crown nut you need to drill a hole to push through a dowel pin or thread it and use an allen screw, anything that keeps the sprocket from turning and losing the preload on the bearings.
The pics show a factory HD top clamp which is actually one piece with the handlebars but having the bars cut off and the HD center piece with the pin that engages the sprocket. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-04-2019, 03:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by VonWegener View Post
The Paughco top clamp and its various chinese copies is not designed to work with a factory crown or in HD lingo Cone nut, you know the 'sprocket on top" kind. Paughco has its own crown nut with a hex on top.
Thanks for the information VonWedgener. I'd since realized this through speaking to a few people and doing some reading. Plan is to make a new top nut that will not only allow the clamp to sit at the correct position but also lock the nut in place and secure the bearing pre-load.
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Old 04-05-2019, 07:51 AM   #14
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geeezzzz.. I've never seen a frame jig like that!! looks like a frikin tank!
hahaha awesome!!
good read up on this, not far off from what I done on my 76 shovel. rode swing arm and sprung struts for a year, then chopped her!
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Old 04-06-2019, 12:10 PM   #15
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Been down that road of buying a shiny piece of shit and finally saying fuck it. Chop it and redo everything. I have frame jig envy. Oh yeah, bike is looking killer and love all the large detail pics.
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Old 04-08-2019, 04:28 PM   #16
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Started making small bites of progress on mounting the oil tank and gas tank.

I found that once i actually sat the oil tank in the frame and bolted up the front mounts there were a number of issues.
-The factory oil tank mount plate caused the oil tank to hit the upper rear frame rails so would need modifying, not good due to chrome on it
-Making a new plate for the bottom was not an option due to clearance issues with the clutch arm
-The shifter plate on the trans fouled the bottom front corner of the oil tank
-The front mount on the oil tank was welded on crooked and offset so the tank sat further toward the kicker side than should be which made the line looking down from the top of the bike horrible

So this was my solution. I made up a spacer plate (apparently factory spacers are 8mm) out of 5mm plate, then made a new front mount plate for the oil tank. I also made 2 threaded bungs and tabs to mount of the frame rear cross bar, these are just dummied in in the pics and will have plates welded in before being welded to the top of the tank to prevent cracking.








Next up was the gas tank mount. I wanted to use the split tank mounts on the front and one at the rear giving effectively 3 mounting points which is much stronger, so i cut of the front tank made and made this up. Still needs final welding but should work well.





Lastly, i started playing with headlight mounting. Going to mount at this height by turning a stepped bar that will mount between the lugs on the springer, should look cool.




Another issue (if you can call it that) was that my rear tyre always bugged me, something just never looked right. Well Steve pointed out my rear rim looked off, after giving it a measure it is not the factory Harley 16" x 3" as i thought, its closer to 4.5" wide meaning the tyre was stretched on...Bingo, problem found. I've got a new 16" x 3" on the way as well as a new Avon SM MK2 to suit, do it once do it right.

Oh yeah, as you can probably see now im literally building this in my lounge and on my deck...where theres a will theres a way right
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:46 PM   #17
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Slowly continuing onward.

Spun up a headlight mount, still need a tab welded to the back that bolts to the springer bridge to stop it rotating, but it works well...only bugger is i discovered the unity headlight i'd bought had an issue with the decorative piece at the top of the bevel not being center which really looks bad, i may change it out for something else...





I also machined up the riser part of my risers, these are a slow work in progress with a lot of work to come, you may get some idea of where im headed with these now though.



As i mentioned in my last post too i was changing my rear rim and tyre out, got that all buttoned up and am much happier. Have moved on to getting the rear fender widened to suit now and am cutting some strip to do so today at work on the guillotine.





We have a 10 day holiday here in NZ coming up so will be spending this at Steves place, hoping to have the roller locked down, tins finish welded and mounted, rear wheel spacing sorted, and the rear fender/sissy bar made.....wish me luck

Last edited by NZT100; 06-24-2019 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:08 PM   #18
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What a delight to see this build. Aside from being visually pleasing I applaud the basic fabrication guidelines being applied. I can tell that you are no stranger to working with metal. Very nice.
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Old 04-28-2019, 02:10 AM   #19
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Took a ten day break here in NZ and managed to get a solid few days on the bike with the help of friends.

First job was to take a look at the springer. In eyeing up everything when installed on the frame it was obvious that the wheel was cocked left and lent over so we knew something wasn't right. Upon investigating we found -

1 - The front leg right side had been welded on crooked meaning the rocker was on an angle causing rocker bind
2 - The front legs were miss-aligned front to back meaning the axle was not running square with the frame
3 - The rear legs were miss-aligned front to back
4 - The rear leg rocker holes were at different lengths from the lower tree by 1.5mm

Front leg we made a tool to fit the rocker tab and simply clamped the leg down and tweaked back to place.



Rear leg we clamped down, checked the miss-alignment with rods, and again tweaked back into place.






We chose to leave the 4th point as it was minor and would have been more trouble than it worth for the minor difference. All back together it was running sweet but the changes meant some offset lacing is now needed to the front rim as everything has moved and its of centre by 2mm now.

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Old 04-28-2019, 02:11 AM   #20
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Next was sorting the rear wheel and spacing out.

I had clearance issues with the brake plate and axle plate and really wanted to keep the mech brake tap, so first had to linish down the back of this down for clearance, this was simple and didnt get a pic but only a few mm came off the casting high spots.

Due to running the 67-72 juice drum and axle we were always going to have a few chain line issues to sort, i know its been done before plenty of times but always with a slightly different answer on how.

The simplest fix for us was to spread the rear axle plates slightly (about 3.5mm) to get the chain line spot on. We clamped the crap out of the frame to the welding table, welded on a beam to push off of that sat hard against the right side axle plate so as not to move that, and then ran a piece of round bar that located against the front down tube (we clamped some angle to act as a fixed point) and rear motor mount. This bar allowed us to take measurements to both axle plates so we knew which were moving and by how much.



All in all by doing it this we were able to use all of the brake side 67-72 axle components, the only right side change will be shortening the spacer a few mm.

End of day it was all buttoned up.




Next i wanted to weld in the oil tank mounts. It had been about 5 years since touching a TIG so figured it a good place to start as it will all be hidden by the seat. Came out really good and i think this will be a good long term mounting solution that will prevent cracking.







We also machined and welded in these small sleeves. These are 1-1/8" OD and 1" ID, they are simply to hide the step in the tubing due to the hardtail. Being we put in a trans bridge plate the step in the tube is now almost in-perceivable.






And lastly for the day, Steve made me up a stem nut to the correct length needed. We tried a Paughco one but it was still too long.





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Old 04-28-2019, 02:12 AM   #21
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Had to dummy everything up and see where we are sitting. A lot of work to be done now but having the roller locked in is a major milestone for sure.






Had to try on a couple of seats and the rear fender im planning to use for good measure.

Genuine Bates solo and P-Pad




And another that my friend had made a long time ago.



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Old 04-28-2019, 12:09 PM   #22
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I like to try and get them rideable in this state. Put a few hundred miles on it and the change stuff that needs it....


Looks killer.
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Old 04-28-2019, 04:05 PM   #23
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I like to try and get them rideable in this state. Put a few hundred miles on it and the change stuff that needs it....


Looks killer.
Thanks Jaws. The plan will be to get it rideable and put some test miles on it before paint and chrome. Cant bloody wait!!
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Old 05-12-2019, 07:44 PM   #24
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Have continued chipping away at things. Heaps of work going down on the primary side which ill do a post about once finished.

One thing i have buttoned up was the gearbox mounting. Being i am using a tin primary with belt setup i had to use a trans adjuster plate. The adjuster plate takes up some thread from the gearbox studs and i wasn't happy with the amount of engagement left on the nuts, so i made these longer studs up and this washer plate. Trans is securely mounted now with the baering support on. I also had to space the bearing support a few mm to clear the sprocket nut so i cut some spacer plates on the laser rather than juts using washers.






I also got the headlight mount all welded, i added a tab that bolts to the spring bridge so it cant rotate, works really well.




Dummied the exhaust up too. I was originally going to make these pipes but considering time, material + chrome vs the Paughco price, i opted to buy, i planned to build them identical so this made life a lot easier. Really good quality and great fit from Paughco so kudos to them. Still need to make mounts yet.

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Old 06-13-2019, 05:15 PM   #25
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Hasn't been swarms of progress as of late due to other commitments. Have ordered a last haul of parts needed from the US so they're on their way, other than that i did a heap of work getting the primary side to work.

I wanted to run a belt drive in the factory tin primary setup which i knew could be done. Setup i had was BDL 1.5" belt drive, 5 finger clutch hub, Sifton Diaphragm clutch, and re-pop Tin primary covers for inner and outer. A fair bit of work had to happen to get all this to fit so here's what was involved for anyone looking to do a similar setup.

- Drilled out the inner primary to motor case holes (A LOT) to get the inner primary to pivot at the clutch end and clear the clutch hub
- Clearanced the inner primary a few mm right around the front pulley for belt clearance as it fouled
- Drilled clearance holes for the nuts on the outer bearing support for the primary
- Ground the lip on the inner primary where the two pieces of sheetmetal are welded together down as this hit the belt, then fused it back together
- Machined the clutch basket OD down to just above the rivets for added clearance

So overall a fair bit of drilling, grinding and welding. Pics below including indoor welding setup...the joys of indoor chopper building







In the above pic you can see the area i had to fuse back together after grinding the lip down from where the factory joined the sheetmetal.



And below is what it looks like mostly assembled. Still need to make the bottom rear mount, but found a nice rubber vibration isolater to connect the top mount to the oil tank which has worked great.



In other unfinished news, got the clutch cable adjuster mount all made, and began work on mounting the exhaust.





I'm using a Paughco exhaust system and Emgo shorty slip on muffler tips. The tips are supposed to slip on but i found there is around 1.6mm difference in the OD of the Paughco pipe and the ID of the Emgo mufflers. What i did was get some 0.7mm copper sheet and roll it to make a gasket/spigot ring. This now means the mufflers are a really good fit to the pipes. I will cut slits in each muffler and use SS clamps to secure the joins. Just need to weld in my mounting points which ill do next week and the exhaust will be on.




Thats all for now
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Old 06-24-2019, 03:25 PM   #26
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Got busy over the weekend locking in the primary side...ran into an issue unfortunately.

After getting the inner primary cover welding finished, welding the lower inner primary mount, and welding in a new upper inner primary mount on the oil tank, i fitted the Sifton diaphragm clutch up only to find it fouls the outer cover by a bucket load....bugger. Simple fix is to go back to the stock clutch...oh well.

Pics tell the story.

Upper and lower primary mounts with vibration isolaters (still need to sort the hardware)


New oil tank mount as the old one was offset to far inward. Id show my welding but i had a mare on this and im not proud lol



Inner primary fitted up, as well as the new clutch, also showing some of the footpeg/shifter side which is just mocked up for now



I also ended up cutting off the JIC oil tank fittings as my fitting and hose options weren't going to work out due to limited clearance from the top exhaust. I bought some Swagelok weld in fittings, fizzed them in, then polished and bent up some 316SS tube...still more to do here.

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Old 06-24-2019, 04:52 PM   #27
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Just wondering if anyone has said that you do nice work...
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Old 06-24-2019, 05:03 PM   #28
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Just wondering if anyone has said that you do nice work...
Thanks Jaws, bit by bit its coming together
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Old 06-24-2019, 05:05 PM   #29
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Im still wondering... it needs to be said. Im not gonna say it now cause that would be awkward.
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Old 06-24-2019, 05:37 PM   #30
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I must echo Jaws. That's really nice work
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:44 PM   #31
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Sure 'nuff.

The solo seat looks perfect.
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:28 AM   #32
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Only one other person, that I know, does work that nice is Jimmy and he does work for Ness.
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Old 06-27-2019, 02:14 PM   #33
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Awesome build and great looking bike! I did a double take on the Swagelock fittings... I did the same to mine a few years ago, not a fan of the usual hose clamps and rubber lines.
Cheers!
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:37 PM   #34
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Thanks everyone for the kind words, pretty humbled to be honest.

I'm looking forward to getting the back wheel back on and the bars mounted so i can move this thing outside for a look....hard to get a good eye on it when you're building it your lounge!!
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:14 PM   #35
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Made some more progress on the oil lines and rear brake over the weekend.

The oil lines were going really well until the tube bender failed...have ordered a new Rigid brand bender from the USA as i wanted to get one that had the same radius so i didnt have to re-make everything, should be here in a week or so.

Now for pictures!!

First i pre-polished the tube. I got this form a different supplier and it polished up a lot nicer than the first lot i had. I may end up remaking the oil feed yet.




Then began the bending. I scribbled down dimensions so i could replicate the top 150 degree bends.




My inner de-burring tool.




One done, needs trimming back.


And this line finished.




Got most of the way thorugh the last oil ine then this happened...dont buy cheap tools people!!



So this is where the lines are at.




I also fitted my new oil pressure gauge which is really nice.



I've also made a start on my speedo mount which is going to be all part of the top motor mount. Having a speedo is a legal requirement here so want to make this as discreet as possible.


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Old 07-01-2019, 09:31 PM   #36
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Stupid tubing bender!
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Old 07-01-2019, 10:02 PM   #37
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I love the paint staging, platform and the welder in the living room. You can fab when you're watching the (insert sports team) play. Ha ha

That second piece od thing fron the oil bag, do you have to start over again or can you cut and re-bend? It looks like our might be too close just make the bend into the tank.
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Old 07-01-2019, 10:29 PM   #38
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That second piece od thing fron the oil bag, do you have to start over again or can you cut and re-bend? It looks like our might be too close just make the bend into the tank.
TBH the unfinished piece was just a test run as it has some gauges in the tube i couldn't polish out. Rather than just scrap the whole piece i used it to map out the lower bends for this oil line. When my new bender arrives ill work from the top down, ive still got a few metres of tube left yet.
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:21 PM   #39
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Little bit more done, mounted my speedo (have to have one to be road legal over here).

Eyed things up then did a quick drawing -




Drew things up and cut them on the laser




The some cutting/linishing to fit the top motor mount shape



TIG welded into place and some metal finishing work its come out perfect.




In other news, my risers are nearing completion so ill do a post on those soon, lots of work in em and something ive never seen before which is cool. My rear fender is nearly finished (made from scratch), and ive nearly got my gas tanks mods all done....things are motoring along

Should have some more posts soon once i get to roll it outside for the first time which im amped about.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:16 AM   #40
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Rad thread man! Bike is looking bitchin
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:56 PM   #41
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That is an outstanding speedo mount (I hope you have space to put a little rubber between the instrument and its possibly vibratory bracket though, or that that is not an issue). You guys with talent and ability make me cranky.
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Old 07-15-2019, 08:01 PM   #42
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Rad thread man! Bike is looking bitchin
Thanks Jason, appreciate that!!

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That is an outstanding speedo mount (I hope you have space to put a little rubber between the instrument and its possibly vibratory bracket though, or that that is not an issue). You guys with talent and ability make me cranky.
TBH Ratso i hadn't considered vibration or the longevity of the speedo being mounted here. Its primarily to tick the "laws" box and so that it looks cool/is hidden away. Thanks but I dont believe i'm the most talented fabricator TBH, just try to take my time and do things right the first time round. I probably spend 5x as much time thinking about how to do something vs actually doing it...i think thats my trick haha.
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Old 07-28-2019, 05:46 PM   #43
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Fair bit of progress the last few weeks.

I completed the oil lines with the new tube bender i got. I ended up remaking them all as this bender left a far better quality bend. The result was really nice and i took some time to polish the tube fittings while i was at it. These lines will get a re-polish before final assembly.




Next job was to take care of the gas tank. I'm not a fan of the dual petcock at the rear. these re-pop tanks come with. The original stle wassell tanks weren't setup like this for a start but also it makes fuel line routing pretty bad as your fuel lines need to run in front of the heads, it also bugs me due to not allowing any fuel crossover....so i fixed it.

Cut off the original petcock mounts, fill with weld and linish (just roughed in for now)




Next, drill holes for the fuel crossover, new petcock bung, polish and bend the 1/4" SS tube for the crossover, sand machine the Swagelok fittings to be welded in.






Weld em up using 309 filler wire and done (dont have a pic of the done up close..my bad)



Next was exhaust mount time. Im using Paughco shotgun exhaust and Emgo's mufflers. Id previously made up these copper spigot seals ot get the mufflers to sit nice as the ID on the muffler was a fair bti bigger than the OD on the exhaust tube.



I then designed some mounts and made them up. Rear mount uses the two holes on the axle plate with CSK screws and a plate to attached to the mufflers.







Tacked in place and then welded up.





Front lower mount is juts a simple tab welded to the frame. Managed to keep a bee's dick of clearance between the frame exhaust and motor...stoked.


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Old 07-28-2019, 05:46 PM   #44
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The i rolled it outside for the first time to take a look at everything.







Will be a bit quiet the next few weeks as have a bit on but be back into it soon enough!!
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:46 AM   #45
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Looks great man!! that tank work is killer.

Question though? Why not get an OG Wassell?
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Old 07-29-2019, 09:06 PM   #46
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Looks great man!! that tank work is killer.

Question though? Why not get an OG Wassell?
Mainly convenience TBH, i placed an order to the US a while back and grabbed this while i was at it. I also liked that it was mid-tunnel.
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:46 PM   #47
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Been back at things after a hiatus due to life...basically been trying to button up all my loose ends.

Got the brake lines done, had them made by HEL in SS braid and hid the pressure switch behind the tin primary. Really happy with how they came out.






I then started working on setting chain tension to check the brake plate banjo bolt clearance to the axle plate and ran into an issue.
- With a 100 link chain the banjo hit at the front of the axle plate
- With a 102 link chain i couldn't get chain tension before the banjo hit the rear of the brake plate where the sissy bar will mount too
- A slight change in primary belt tension helped neither case
The fix was to remake the brake anchor mount, this time round though i incorporated a brake line mount into it also.




I then wanted to get the battery box/oil tank area finished up. I made a new floor for the oil tank to act as the battery tray, a removable fuse mount, and a battery clamp. The battery clamp is made of some 5/16" threaded rods and uses welded nuts on the bottom of the oil tank to thread into. It all works perfect and is really tidy which im happy about.










I also had to make some changes ot the clutch cable mount so i re-made this from 5mm SS.




And lastly, fixed my mistake..i'd previously welded in the petcock bung upside down (NPT)...nice one i know. So i re-made this and welded it in. I then marked out the top motor mount and drilled a through hole for the fuel line. This may need to be drilled larger and a grommet added just yet but well see.



Last edited by NZT100; 09-08-2019 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:44 AM   #48
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Really neat work man. Can't wait to see you get this one on the road! Summer fast approaches for you guys too!!
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:27 PM   #49
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Really neat work man. Can't wait to see you get this one on the road! Summer fast approaches for you guys too!!
Thanks Rhys! Tell me about it...coming round all too soon. Considering i only get a few hours on Saturday mornings in the workshop im proud of the progress to date, still a lot to do though and feels like not much time!!

All the small stuff eats hours like crazy.
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:11 PM   #50
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ok, i'm going to scrap mine instead of finishing it.



this looks awesome!
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Old 09-08-2019, 04:37 PM   #51
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Another weekend of bits and pieces done, or mostly done.

Decided i could wire the bike up, or at least the ignition side, headlight, speedo etc. Basically i aimed to crimp, solder, and heatshrink every join, as well as run as much of it hidden as possible, since there wasnt too much wiring it was a pretty simple affair. Some pics -



I also drilled and mounted a Hi/Lo switch into the headlight bucket which came out good.





I wrapped the speedo cable and wiring in this braided wrap around cover...not sure on this yet and i may change it out on final assembly


My "garage for this job"..



Here was the oil tank/electrical location once done. Bear in mind i still need to tidy this up but its good for now, final assembly will be tidier. The circuit basically has a 30A fuse from Battery to ignition, ignition switch then runs to the fuse block with each circuit individually fused from there. Should be a pretty durable and safe setup.


Got some new parts fitted as well, new Fuel filter my friend Steve makes which is killer, and got the I-Beam kicker on there (had to shim with some feeler gauge as you can see in the pic





Really loving the way the A-Side is looking now



Still not sold on what bars to run, ill finish my risers this week so should be a fun process deciding then...risers are 6.5" tall..bar options are 9" apes or 5.5" Z bars....hmmmm



And lastly, my Cooper Smithing fender came in....holy crap what a piece of art!! Cant recommend Joe enough to work with either, absolute legend!! Dummied things up for a look and here where we stand ATM.

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Old 09-09-2019, 07:27 AM   #52
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Looking great man!

Apes for me all day. Wiring looks spot on, super super neat!!
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:29 AM   #53
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Sure 'nough. It's looking fine, and yeah, what I can see of the fender suggests that it's excellent in all directions.

Z bars z bars z bars z bars. Please. You know it's the right thing to do.
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:52 PM   #54
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Looking awesome! I'm interested in seeing what you'll be doing with the seat/seat pan/springs etc...
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Old 09-10-2019, 01:24 PM   #55
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What a great thread. So much imagination and problem solving.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:46 PM   #56
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Looking great man!

Apes for me all day. Wiring looks spot on, super super neat!!
Thanks Rhys, it worked out well, planning to add a kill switch yet as the key is non-captured and wont to be able to kill the bike when i park it up, should be easy enough.

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Z bars z bars z bars z bars. Please. You know it's the right thing to do.
I'll be putting both sets on so ill post pics of the Z's and the Apes....we'll see from there. Im leaning toward the Z's too at this stage.

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Looking awesome! I'm interested in seeing what you'll be doing with the seat/seat pan/springs etc...
Plan for seat is a 2-Up cobra style, like this here - https://bnccycles.com/collections/se...her-cobra-seat

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What a great thread. So much imagination and problem solving.
Thanks mate, it's been a hell of a learning curve so far!!
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:44 PM   #57
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Made my key switch mount and got that bolted on last night. Made from 316 SS and will get a polish on tear down.



Next i tried on a few sets of bars last night, the risers aren't done yet but they were far enough along i could actually clamp them on. This is the first time i've had bars on this bike so was a pretty big millstone for me. I'm stoked on both setups but will run with the 9" apes for now.

Z's





9" Apes






Running the Lowbrow Beck grips which im really happy with too.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:48 PM   #58
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Been a few weeks since i last updated and not a heap of progress. Waiting on some parts so has been a nice breather in the meanwhile.

I did manage to get my risers finished though!! I'd always wanted to try to build a dog leg I-Beam style riser so gave it a nudge. Here some photos of the process and finished product.

First thing i did was model the end product up in SolidWorks so i had a plan in place. This did change slightly over the duration of the project but it ended up pretty close.


Next was to mill some 16mm thick Mild Steel into the I-Beam profile and turn the clamp ends up, i also turned the bolt logs too but didnt grab a photo of these.



Next a made a jig so that i could bend the I beam profile into shape. Its made from 10mm thick MS plate and turned rollers that match the I-Beam profile (near enough to anyways). Id calculated the bend angles from my model and did some quick math so i new the tonnage id need to bend it. Sourced some appropriate size bolts considering the shear force.





I then bent them up using the press brake at work. I left the I-Beams way longer than the finish length so that i had enough length to do the bends and simply cut them I-Beams to an identical fixed length, then used each end as datum point from which the bend was placed at a given distance. It all worked really well. Heres a link to me bending them at work.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2-6xkNg...on_share_sheet

Next was some more machine work in pocketing the clamp lugs to recess the bolt lugs into them, and cutting the I-Beams to length and to fit the clamp lugs. The I-Beams were cut as close to the bends as possible as i thought this would look the nicest.




The they were welded all together, split, and the threads made for the clamp bolts. I split them with and angle grinder then just filed them flat. I tried a few machine options but didn't have a good enough setup so went with the grinder. Since i dont have a vice at home i managed to get the lower lug threads tapped, then clamped the risers on to thread the top lugs....where theres a will theres a way.







So in total they are a 6" rise and have about 2" offset on each riser...Ive aptly named them the "Dog-Beam" Risers haha
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Old 10-22-2019, 03:31 PM   #59
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Damn man!! that's some serious work and skill and they look killer!!
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:43 PM   #60
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Guess i'll liven this up as things are happening again...thanks Covid-19!

So end of last year work all but stopped on this, not because i didnt want to keep going but because i bought a new house....with a garage. Problem was, the garage was unuseable, so i've spent the last 3 months working on it to the point where i have my own bit of space for wrenching now...man it feels good. Yesterday i got busy with the bike again.

I reviewed the work i'd done and whilst i liked the parts on the bike individually, some didnt work together well IMO...mainly the bars/risers/exhausts, things just seemed a bit confused. So, have had my mate Steve bend up some new bars the same as these but with a narrower bottom. These are a bit taller than the 9" rise apes i had on and with different bends, i think they will look a ton better. Unfortunately due to Covid-19 i cant get them from him ATM so im being patient on that one (These photos were taken in temporary storage BTW).




Im also planning on changing the battery and fuse orientation as i realized its a paint to get at the fuses ATM, and will also be remaking the exhausts ..more to come there.

Yesterday i got the Cooper Smithing fender mounted, and began work on the sissy bar which will be made from Hex with some I-Beam features thrown in. Joe made me an awesome fender with a nice detail for chain clearance and managed to keep the bead the whole way round....he does beautiful work!







Need to finish up the bottom mount when i can access to a lathe again. Planning to weld a threaded bung to the fender and make a small spacer.




Have also made a template of the seat pan and this is well underway. I've managed to radius the bottom part and then form the vertical piece to match the extra piece of fender Joe sent me, should be really nice once its done, will post photos once some more work has happened there.

Here's were im at as of end of yesterday...excited to see progress again.


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Old 05-20-2020, 11:43 PM   #61
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Got busy over the weekend building my sissy bar.

I used 9/16" Mild Steel Hex Bar which i plan to have chromed down the track. I didn't make a jig to make this, just marked out a template on some 1/8" plate and did lots of checking and measuring as i was bending. I used a manual bar bender to bend the bar stock, and made the feet from some old tire irons a found laying around, the I-beam profile matches the kick arm and risers really well which i liked. Finally i made the fender support from a piece of 1/4" plate then TIG welded it all together. Overall height is about 1060mm or 42".












Hope everyones staying safe and keeping busy!
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:43 PM   #62
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Rolled this out in the sun the other day -



Can see the light at the end of the tunnel!! Seat pans booked for upholstery in a fortnight, license plate bracket done this week, exhaust the next, painter is tee'd up.....F**k im excited!
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:44 PM   #63
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Huge progress this weekend, the biggest being that the sissy bar and taillight are now finished and mounted, and my new exhausts are made. Other jobs ive finished up are remaking the SS oil lines (i fucked a bend in one of the last lot so remade them all perfect), headlight mount modified to change the lines and make tightening it up easier, seat pan is complete and sent out to the upholsterer, and the last rear fender mount is welded in.

Pics do the talking -

Headlight moved outward


Liense plate and taillght mount welded to the sissy bar. I pre-polished everything before welding it all together which should help during the chrome stage. Taillight is from HypnicJerk Customs in Australia and is all polished SS


Stripped the Emgo mufflers of chrome, cut the skinny end of and welded some new extensions on..far nicer now



Rear lower fender mount welded up


I use the Paughco exhaust i had, stripped the chrome and modified it. This was during the first stage of dummying things up. Had to make a wee S end at the head to get the pipe to clear the oil tank and clutch release arm stud




Once i had the first one made up i used a square to mark the cut on the bottom pipe. I colour things in black then use a scribe to give me a really accurate line to cut too


Rolled it outside for photos. So glad with the changes ive made!!




Still need to make the exhuast rear mounts so will cut some tabs at work this week and spin up the spacers.

Did some polishing today once i ran out of welding jobs. Got the Super E looking shiny with the Throwback cycles air cleaner and my friends fuel filter he makes


Thats it for now, not much left to do before teardown...
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Old 05-21-2020, 12:58 AM   #64
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Hm. Looks just fine to me, but we'll have to bring in JP and Dutch D -- a.k.a. the Symmetry Boys -- to adjudge whether your sissy bar meets their fanatical standards of chirality.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:06 AM   #65
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Very nice
what are you stripping the chrome with?
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:44 AM   #66
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Hm. Looks just fine to me, but we'll have to bring in JP and Dutch D -- a.k.a. the Symmetry Boys -- to adjudge whether your sissy bar meets their fanatical standards of chirality.
I noticed a weld on the left side is 1 mill shorter.

Nice job , whats your plan on the paint job?
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:43 PM   #67
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Hm. Looks just fine to me, but we'll have to bring in JP and Dutch D -- a.k.a. the Symmetry Boys -- to adjudge whether your sissy bar meets their fanatical standards of chirality.
hahahaha, too right, it's approved!


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I noticed a weld on the left side is 1 mill shorter.

Nice job , whats your plan on the paint job?
HAHAHAHA no shit!!! I noticed the same on the weld and thought to myself "aww, shit only one more dimme there"

The sissy bar is spot on, my symmetry absolutely loves that photo with everything framed perfectly, the sissy bar top with the tyre, with a reasonably equal handlebars on either side of the sissy bar.... perfect!!
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Old 05-21-2020, 04:30 PM   #68
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Thanks for the comments guys!

RichBob - I just send them to my local plating shop and get them tanked, its very cheap to do and provides a much better surface to weld to then trying to grind it back.

Jp & Dutch Dennoz - Funnily enough since i took that photo i've been back over the welds and evened them up, i'm glad i took that photo though, it made me realize it could have been better.

I've made some minor changes the last few days, ive lowered the risers and got some taller bars, as well as made a new oil drain bung using the Swagelok fittings for the oil tank. Seat should be back to me in a fortnight which im really excited about!
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Old 05-21-2020, 06:21 PM   #69
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I beg to differ! That would look much better in my possession! Great job, btw!


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Old 05-22-2020, 02:42 AM   #70
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Jp & Dutch Dennoz - Funnily enough since i took that photo i've been back over the welds and evened them up,
You don't know how much better I'm going to sleep tonight knowing this! Hahaha

Happens to me a lot what you done. I take photos, shit loads of photos of everything, I just like photos.
and sometimes I'm sat at home looking at them and spot things I didn't when I was in the garage.
Sometimes even when I post here, do the post and then realised something not right.
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Old 05-22-2020, 04:08 AM   #71
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You don't know how much better I'm going to sleep tonight knowing this! Hahaha

Happens to me a lot what you done. I take photos, shit loads of photos of everything, I just like photos.
and sometimes I'm sat at home looking at them and spot things I didn't when I was in the garage.
Sometimes even when I post here, do the post and then realised something not right.
Nothing wrong with that!
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Old 06-09-2020, 11:55 PM   #72
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

Small update but the last major piece of the puzzle....my seat is done.

I sent his from New Zealand to Australia to be upholstered. A friend carried out the work, he was responsible for the foam and leather work, i made the seat pan. The seat is wrapped in Kangaroo leather which is really hard wearing durable stuff. It mounts with an aluminium bung that spigots into the seat tube, and there is a small nut welded to the underside of the fender at the rear which bolts to a polished 316S tab.

Safe to say he is a master of his craft. I couldn't be happier with the work. The seat is on its way back to me now, cant wait to get it in my hands!






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Old 06-10-2020, 01:41 AM   #73
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

First Kangaroo leather seat I've seen. Wonder what else they make out of kangaroos.
Great seat base and transition from the curved fender area to the flat seat base.
Nice design too.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:14 AM   #74
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First Kangaroo leather seat I've seen. Wonder what else they make out of kangaroos.
Great seat base and transition from the curved fender area to the flat seat base.
Nice design too.
They're almost classed as vermin in Australia Mike. The leather is quite common in shoes etc too.. real tough stuff.

Seat looks great man, he's done a beautiful job. My white seat stayed white for roughly 3 hours.. it's now marked and oily, black was a good choice! haha.
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:15 AM   #75
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They're almost classed as vermin in Australia Mike. The leather is quite common in shoes etc too.. real tough stuff.

I think they make kangaroo scrotum coin pouches... on another note...


Really nice work and bike NZT100 !
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Old 06-10-2020, 01:27 PM   #76
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I think they make kangaroo scrotum coin pouches... on another note...


Really nice work and bike NZT100 !
The more you know!!

A lot of people confuse Roo's with Wallabies, very different beasts!! NZ, I can't wait to see this finished!
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Old 06-10-2020, 03:12 PM   #77
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First Kangaroo leather seat I've seen. Wonder what else they make out of kangaroos.
Great seat base and transition from the curved fender area to the flat seat base.
Nice design too.
Thanks Mike. I belevie as Rhys said its used in a lot of shoes, specifically sports boots. It was quite tricky to do the seat pan as i dont have much sheetmetal experience. I pressed the radius into the flat part of the pan then used a english wheel to match the curve to the part that runs up the fender the best i could. I then just tacked every 10mm or so across the join and hammered it on a dolly till it all matched up.

Quote:
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A lot of people confuse Roo's with Wallabies, very different beasts!! NZ, I can't wait to see this finished!
Thanks Rhys, me either, been a long road, cant wait to go for a rip on it!
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Old 06-28-2020, 04:31 PM   #78
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

And that’s a wrap folks! Fab is finished up. Got the seat mounted and welded some 3/8” tube into the bead of the rear fender to hide the wiring for the taillight in.

So stoked with the end result!! Onto paint and chrome now.





Last edited by NZT100; 06-28-2020 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 06-28-2020, 10:30 PM   #79
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

I just found this build thread... and the timing is perfect!

You are building an awesome Shovel bobber, very much like what I want to build.

I have a '57 Pan chopper. I'm buying a Shovel engine and trans and I'm going to swap it out for the Pan, then sell the chopper with the Shovel engine. Then build the Pan into a nice bobber.

I just did a quick scan of your build and there's so much detail in there, I'm going to go back and read every word and study every picture.

Thanks. I hope you don't mind some questions in a few weeks.

Cheers!
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Old 07-21-2020, 06:24 PM   #80
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I just did a quick scan of your build and there's so much detail in there, I'm going to go back and read every word and study every picture.

Thanks. I hope you don't mind some questions in a few weeks.
Sure thing Will, fire away, happy to help if i can!
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Old 07-21-2020, 11:39 PM   #81
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Awesome bike mate, outstanding fabrication work!


I was living in chch when I started my triumph build back in 2009. I moved back up north now, bikes still not finished...


Hopefully get to see your bike in person some time
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Old 07-24-2020, 09:12 PM   #82
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First Kangaroo leather seat I've seen. Wonder what else they make out of kangaroos.
Great seat base and transition from the curved fender area to the flat seat base.
Nice design too.
Kangaroo tail soup is a winner
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Old 08-03-2020, 11:31 PM   #83
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Been working my ass off getting this thing ready for paint.

I'm doing all the molding and prep myself to save money and being the first time i've done this it's a steep learning curve, i'm enjoying the process though. My painter friend who works for Glasurit supplied me all the materials and will be doing the base coat, and ill be carrying out the graphics after which hell lay the clear on. So far i'm in about 30 hours in and have the tins/fender/springer molded and into high build primer as well as roughing in the molding on the frame. Pics below are the process so far -

First step was sanding everything with 80g to clean metal, i also had the frame and springer sand blasted as it was far easier than sanding all those curves.



Then came Epoxy primer. I'm lucky enough to have a oven and wet spray setup (we use it for powder coating)at work so i took the opportunity to use that. Cleaned everything with metal prep, warmed it up in the oven, then laid the Epoxy on.






Next was filler work. What ive learned here so far is its better to do many thin layers than one thick layer. I pretty much did 3 rounds of filler and sanding to get it all flat, i used guide coat and blocking to check each time. I sanded it first with 80g, then 150g, and finally with 240g. It all came out spot on.



The lastly i hit it all with 2.5 coats of High Build Epoxy again. All these parts are ready for final sanding in 400g now then its onto the frame which i have since roughed in from the below pic.






Thats it so far. Lots left to do but sure enough its getting there.
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Old 08-23-2020, 11:40 PM   #84
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Well about 80 hours later and prep for paint is done. I have a new respect for guys that do this for a living, its tough work! I tell you what, man it feels good to know that's the last major job done!! Chrome is well underway, off to paint in two weeks time....holy shit i can see the light!






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Old 08-24-2020, 10:07 AM   #85
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Really a great job , patience is the key word in this stage...we are dying to see the result
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Old 09-10-2020, 05:39 PM   #86
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Got the base coat laid down over the past weekend, then wet sanded with 800g and grey scotched everything back for the flames to be laid down over the next week or so. Have started laying the patterns on as of last night. Its my first time doing any of this so i'm pretty happy how things are turning out so far.








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Old 09-10-2020, 07:54 PM   #87
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Default Re: NZ Shovelhead build

You don't need me to tell you how good that looks, or to say "great job."

That's just too bad, 'cause I already said them.

Thanks for the fresh batch of pics. That bunch and the preceding, molding/sanding pix gave me powerful nose memories. (I hope Bondo still smells as good as it used to.)
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Old 09-13-2020, 07:30 PM   #88
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Well done. Can’t hide bad body work in black. Good thing you took the extra time to make it flat. It’s lookin nice.
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:12 PM   #89
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Well, here's a sneak peak of what went down on the paint so far. Clear goes on in 4 days time then were into re-assembly. Chromes has come in minus a few parts that are being re-done by i have grabbed any photos yet.




I spent the weekend just been repainting the lifter blocks and barrels, cleaning the cases and heads with Aluminum brightener, filled the trans to check for leaks (none), and just generally prepped parts for re-assembly.




All going to plan in 3 weeks time it'll be finished!!
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:00 PM   #90
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Top job
I’m waiting for the AC boats to fly around your basin
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:12 PM   #91
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Great attention to detail!


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Old 10-08-2020, 09:04 PM   #92
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Paint is done and man i'm stoked how this came out. This was a mammoth task with about 140 hours of my time in it, i am a first timer so probably took longer than it should have. After the black was laid down a 800g wet sanded everything flat and then used 1/8" 3M fine line tape to lay out the flame patterns, then i masked back over and cut everything out all u there was 15 hours of masking in this alone. I did flames on the oil and gas tanks, rear fender, rear springer leg, and the downtubes and legs of the frame.

I went with the blackest black i could get and then a Metallic Champagne Gold with Gold pearl, in the sun the gold has a lot of red/orange that comes through too.

Now for some pics -










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Old 10-09-2020, 03:43 AM   #93
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very nicely done fella, good to see care taken to get things right with no short cuts or rust or patina puke,
your going to have one nice Shovel when finished..... well done
by the way, a mate Chris,. in the north island, does the tech inspection of bikes for registration, shout if you need help or pointers on how to pass, he's a long time bike builder himself & isn't an ass about it...

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Old 10-09-2020, 10:44 AM   #94
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I like rust and patina , but i realy like the shiny fat paintjob , like if it took a paint bath!
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Old 10-10-2020, 08:36 AM   #95
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Beautiful, just beautiful!
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Old 10-10-2020, 08:44 AM   #96
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It's excellent from close up. But I think it'll also look so intricate and interesting from forty feet away that bystanders will drop their lunch buckets and come on over for close inspection. Pretty fair work for a first-timer!
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Old 10-18-2020, 10:14 PM   #97
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Made a good start on assembly over the weekend, am at a dead end for now waiting on my rocker boxes to return from chrome which will be later this week.

So far everything has gone together like butter, taking my time and ensuring everything was right during the fab stage has meant all the parts are fitting up really easily and as planned.
Threw some old bars on it for now while my actual ones are being finished up so i could roll it outside for a pic.



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Old 10-18-2020, 11:20 PM   #98
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Wow , you can be proud
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Old 10-19-2020, 02:04 AM   #99
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Excellent work mate! i've told you this 25 times, one more won't hurt.

I had the same experience with my knuck. No shimming, no nothing. Just all fell together. Super pleasing to say the least!
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:13 PM   #100
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Excellent work mate! i've told you this 25 times, one more won't hurt.

I had the same experience with my knuck. No shimming, no nothing. Just all fell together. Super pleasing to say the least!
Thanks Rhys, im pretty proud of how its come up.

My rocker boxes arrived back from chrome today so all going well ill kick this into life this weekend!
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