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Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

20K views 52 replies 17 participants last post by  Daddy Boy 
#1 ·
Well, here I go. I'm finally starting to accumulate some parts and want to get this build going.

I haven't titled this thread 'custom,' 'bobber,' 'chopper,' etc., simply because I'm not sure exactly what direction this build will take. I have an idea of where I want to go and I'm more concerned with staying true to that concept than I am with what to call it.

Here are some old pictures which I have probably posted in various threads on this board throughout the year. Later on today I will try to get together some pics of where I stand right now.

These pictures are mainly ones taken by the guy I bought this basket case from. As you can see I have a new cylinder which came with the motor (the last owner bought this because of cracks in the original fins).

The bike also came with a disk front hub but I am not going to run this. Instead I am opting for a conical front hub which I bought on here from a fellow JJ member. I am in the process of polishing the hub...I'll post some pics later.
 

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#35 ·
I'm starting to move ahead on my build again but I'm having trouble lacing my rear wheel. After relacing it several times here is where I am.

After tightening the spokes up until they were uniformly tight the drive side of the hub sits almost level with the rim while the speedo side protrudes quite a bit past the edge of the rim. It just looks wrong to me... Any advice??
 

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#36 ·
Any ideas? The first few times that I laced the rim the spokes were sticking out past the top of some nipples a lot more than others so I took everything apart changed the direction of my inner spokes and everything seemed to be going well this time around since everything seemed to be going together evenly. But then as I started tightening everything up I noticed that the spokes on the drive side were almost straight up and down (making the drive side of the hub pretty much in line with the edge of the rim while the speedo side of the hub protruded quite a bit past the edge of the rim.

I tightened all of the spokes in consistent degrees until everything felt pretty tight and this is what I ended up with. Does anyone have some idea as to what's happening. I got the hub spokes and rim with a basket case that I bought. The previous owner began to lacing them up but he had it wrong so I decided to try and redo it myself.... Could this be the wrong kit???
 
#37 ·
I haven't posted in a while but thought I'd throw up some new pics to show some recent progress (although not too much).

*Split the cases and now waiting for new rod bearings so I can have the crank cut.

**Still undecided as to what if any mods I will do to the motor. Is it worth going with megacycle cams and having head work done in terms of the performance to cost ratio? I've never had a Triumph before and the people I talk to tell me that I will be disappoint with the power...

***I finally cut the old hardtail off my front loop and am in the process of fitting up the new david bird one (+4 with 2.5 drop). I will wait until I bolt up the cases to align the new hardtail. I'm concerned with alignment issues because the hardtail that was on there was welded on and I had to do quite a bit of cutting and grinding to get it off.
 

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#41 ·
Question: a local motorcycle shop has a set of hepolite pistons complete with rings, wrist pins, circlips for $350. Is this too much money? I am aware that hepolites are preferred over Taiwanese pistons and rings but $350 seems like a a lot of money to spend.. Thoughts?
 
#47 ·
It relaced the wheel again and it seems to be right now. The spoke angles look correct and the nipples also have a uniform bite on the spokes. I started truing the wheel and the rim itself seems to be so out of wack that I was was having trouble so Im going to have someone who knows what they are doing take a look at it for me.
 
#46 ·
The valve seats look very sunken to me,to the point where they didn't just cut the seats,but started to cut into the aluminium chamber.

It would have been better to fit new seat inserts,instead of cutting away the chamber.It's easy to cut off,but not so easy to put back.

I think you'll be needing more than 1/16" shim under the valve springs'to get any reasonable spring load.
 
#48 ·
The valve seats look very sunken to me,to the point where they didn't just cut the seats,but started to cut into the aluminium chamber.

It would have been better to fit new seat inserts,instead of cutting away the chamber.It's easy to cut off,but not so easy to put back.

I think you'll be needing more than 1/16" shim under the valve springs'to get any reasonable spring load.
I may be wrong here because I'm not too knowledgeable in regard to head work; however when this was done I was there and asked that he show me how to do this type of work. The cutter had a rather dynamic (curved) design to it so a lot of the cutting you see falls behind where the valve makes contact with the inside if the cylinder head.

If I do infact have trouble with the valves sitting too low how could I fix this? Can the seats be TIG welded to provide fresh metal and then remachined?
 
#53 · (Edited)
Mr Pete was here at my shed a few months back to work on a 68 head which had been machined/skimmed to the fins, also had sunken seats.
There was not much squish band left so Pete relieved the meat around the previous valve CUT using a hand tool he'd made only taking material from the top half, proud of the CUT.
The guy who machined Franks has relieved material ALL the way around and removed the squish band. I wouldn't be too keen on work like that but the guys who get worn heads done would know more than me, I'd sure be interested to hear more comments.
 
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