Glad you caught it, I know those 50 dollar bills don't grow on the trees around here either
Before you get after your cylinders with the hone - if you have a junk cylinder or can find a piece of 3" pipe or something close to the right diameter, you can get your chops down as far as stroke speed so that you'll get a nice 45 degree crosshatch pattern on your cylinder walls. I've found that if you run the ball hone within the recommended RPM range, you need to stroke the hone up and down pretty dam' quickly to get that nice 45 degree pattern. A little bit of prior experimenting will show you the right rpm and stroke speed and have you honing your cylinders with confidence.
You might find it helpful to rig something up to hold the cylinders securely so you can just concern yourself with making a nice even stroke. I make up a simple wooden base that I can bolt the cylinder to and then secure it inside some sort of container (a 5 gallon bucket works real good). That way you can use plenty of lubricant so the hone works efficiently and it won't be splashing all over the place. I use ATF for honing. Old, used, ATF works just fine. If you make your cylinder holder so it holds the cylinder up a little ways from the bottom of the container it'll keep you from driving the hone into the bottom of the container as you run the hone up and down.
The cross hatch pattern really does make a difference in how well the rings seat. If the cross hatch is too steep (like straight up and down) it won't hold enough oil, and if the cross hatch is too flat (like without stroking the hone at all), it will hold more oil than you need and may lead to glazing.