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Rickie92 05-13-2020 10:07 AM

Case stud question

Morning, I could really use some advice and guidance on this issue. I have 76 fxe 1200 I tore into to replace the base gaskets. The previous owner use the tall torque bolts with the inner threads (The ones that need to be loosened all at once while lifting the jug) and he used loctite on Installing them. When loosening up the bolts the case studs which came with a couple of them. One came completely
Out of the case. When inspecting the stud the bottom seemed pretty banged up and the inner threads in the case which is screws into seems pretty mangled as well. Is this something I could clean very well and re install a new case stud OR are these not meant to be pulled out and I’m going to have to go down a longer road to repairing that hole along with the other that have partially threaded out of the case? Thank you in advance.


longbow 05-13-2020 12:01 PM

Re: Case stud question

I was going to put longer studs in my 1200 case and was told that they are interference fit and you have to watch out for scrarf from the case getting into the lower end maybe stuff some rags in there to catch it if possible i never done it.

Rickie92 05-13-2020 12:11 PM

Could you explain interference fit for me? Also what was the reasoning you were going to put longer studs in? Thanks.

longbow 05-13-2020 12:18 PM

Re: Case stud question

I believe they are tapered holes as for longer studs i have some ss jugs or 80 cube jugs that have thicker bases.

joe49 05-13-2020 12:18 PM

Re: Case stud question

Means studs are larger than the holes they screw into. Case needs to be heated to expand, and studs frozen to shrink, usually with liquid nitrogen.

Rickie92 05-13-2020 12:25 PM

So in other words I can’t just double nut tighten the stud back into the hole it came
out of and call it a day? Along with the other ones that slightly unscrewed .. i shouldn't tighten them back in? It sounds like I should by pulling the case out of the bike lol.

joe49 05-13-2020 12:26 PM

Re: Case stud question

If you still have threads you will likely get away with Green Loctite.
Or these.

Rickie92 05-13-2020 01:21 PM

I still have threads. The only issue is they would need to be cleaned out. I’m assuming once I start spraying PB blaster it’s going to fall into the case. But if so, would dust grit really do harm? With the ones that are slightly backed out, would it be wise to pull them out all the way and then apply green loctite or just sink it back in?

Rickie92 05-13-2020 01:22 PM

How do the Vulcan studs work?

joe49 05-13-2020 02:02 PM

Re: Case stud question

Just stock replacement by Vulcan. I wouldn't chase the threads with a tap, only a pipe fitting brush, like used for cleaning copper sweat joints. If in frame I would pack a rag in between the flywheel and bottom of the hole and tape off the cylinder base hole. Wire brush the hole and blow it out gently. Then Locktite green on the stud not in the hole. Let dry 24 hours. If other studs backed out just a little and exposed threads add Green and drive back in with the double nuts. Don't drive past the unthreaded part of studs.

joe49 05-13-2020 02:08 PM

Re: Case stud question

No PB, A LITTLE Brakleen, Loctite works best in a clean dry, not oily hole.

johnjzjz 05-13-2020 03:52 PM

Re: Case stud question

caution -- the block is open to the stud bottoms and debris ( metal Sand ) like alloy and steel shavings will enter the engine and end up in the oil system - first the breather valve then the oil pump return then the oil tank then the oil pump delivery to the entire engine

post a picture or 2 of what you asking about

Rickie92 05-13-2020 04:19 PM

Awesome. This is what I’ll do. And I will post pictures of what I’m dealing with in the next 40 minutes. Thank you!

govmule84 05-13-2020 05:26 PM

Re: Case stud question

Second Joe's advice... when I do case or trans studs, I clean threads with a Q-tip dipped in a capful of Brakleen, then let it sit for a bit to evaporate off.

Rickie92 05-13-2020 06:16 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Here are some pics of the circus act.

johnjzjz 05-13-2020 07:06 PM

Re: Case stud question

those nuts were what was used when we had big bore cylinder on engines - the pistons look stock bore range and the block does not look bored - so go back to stock nuts and washers

as said clean it real good and re install the ones that are up or out - once in they don't move - if they become real tight going in remove again a put a dab of never seize on the threads - better that then the stud broken in the block

Dutch Dennoz 05-14-2020 02:47 AM

Re: Case stud question


Originally Posted by joe49 (Post 2067378)
No PB, A LITTLE Brakleen, Loctite works best in a clean dry, not oily hole.

Copy that, the little amount of hydrogen in the air will work as the activator for loctite , so oily surfaces will block that process.
But don't expect the loctite to hold the stud down , A worn down thread needs other repairs, donít use to firm loctite like 2701 because that will mess it up even more. Some like loctite 222 will do to hold the stud in angular rotation.

Rickie92 05-14-2020 08:02 AM

Ok, this is all great info. Thanks! I’m going to clean threads today etc. tomorrow all the new hardware and gaskets come in so I plan on throwing her back together. I have a couple more questions.. the actual studs, how much should they be into the case? Should I put them down so far that you can see the smooth parts that separates both threads? Also ... when installing these jugs, is the lock washer and nut efficient enough or should I use the triangular washers as well that the 80 cubic inch call for? Thanks for all the advice.

magnum45pete 05-14-2020 08:48 AM

Re: Case stud question

the triangular washers are to spread the load without damaging the barrel base flange & should be used, and also they MUST be placed with the 'THIS WAY UP' upwards as they are stamped out and have a bias from the stamping process, only really flat on the under side of them & slightly rounded edges on the top.....

Rickie92 05-14-2020 09:41 AM

Ok so triangular washer, lock washer, regular nut?

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