Opinions on cam choice for Twincam

[misfitJason]

for starters the bike is a 06 dyna efi with the hydraulic tensioners and six speed trans. Satge 1 kit (ac, and pipes) fuelpak, 25mm injectors. I am changing out the cam roller bearings and putting in a baisley hi-flow oil pump spring. I figure that I should do cams while in there. I am not doing headwork or anything else right now to the bike. Stockish is dependable right. Dependable fun is key here. I have been looking at a couple of cams that don't require a change in valve springs or crazy lift. Andrews 26h, Screamin Eagle 204, S&S 583ce easy start cams. I have found decent prices for the s&s one that put the cams bearings and install kit with gasket right at 284.99. Any opinions would be helpful or suggestions. Thanks

[Lee H]

One word answer...WOODS...

I would not even consider another company for off the shelf cams, right now. IF I was going wild with a twin cam, I have a friend at RB Racing, and they have a deal with Branch heads. I would have them custom grind cams for what I wanted

[old.wrench]

Well, its been close to ten years since I've done much with the Twincams, when they first came out we were doing a lot of experimenting with them, but anyhow back then in a light bike like a Dyna I had good results with Andrews TW 50 cams and a compression bump when sticking with the stock heads. That combination made for a suprisingly impressive performance increase for not much money, especially considering no headwork. That combination would put you in the low to mid 12 second range in the 1/4 mile, but still run real nice all day long on the highway. I wouldn't go that route with a heavier touring model, but on the Dynas it worked real good. Like I said, its been a while since I've done much with Twincams but I think Andrews still make the TW 50's. Just throwing out an idea for you.

Regards,
Geo.

[choptop37]

woods is the way to go..the555 or 777 make really good power with head work and a good fuel map, but if you really think your not gonna go farther later you might be suprised with the andrews 26 or 37 depends on how you ride, of course this could turn into a real nasty o/t thread real fast so ill put it like this: the bagger customers with big heavy turds that dont ever want to go 100 love the tw26s they run really good. i just did one with a good tune that made 80 foot-lbs at like 3500rpm 96ers with headwork wil make 95 foot lbs early,really good spread up to 5000 rpm. if you want a little more rpm and a lighter bike like the dyna the 37s make a little more power and rev out more. again the woods i think are king but thyre pricy for most people andi think you really need the compression and head work to take advantage of them. i just did a 107 with woods 555 cnc heads and p/c 5 it made 121 ft-lbs but it was 2500 in parts..you could jamb an andrews in there with pushrods for around 400 bux and get a lot of bang. just my 2 cents.

[misfitJason]

I looked at the woods and I was shocked how much those cams go for. I liked the s&s and it shows that the powerband is from 2000-4500 which is primarily where I stay. I just street the bike. Not looking for absolutely max power. I also like the built in compression release function on the 583ce cams for down the road if a big bore kit comes to mind. I already picked up a set of screamin eagle adjustable pushrods for a score. I assume I could use these pushrods for pretty much any cam unless it has really high lift.

[Loffer]

Sure with heads and valves you can make some power but just cams ibdont think your gonna know if you noone told you their in there. The 96" are making over 90 ftlbs with a tuner and exhausts mods. That being said those mods cosy as much as cams even if you diy..

[pan620]

I really like the S+S 510 grind

[Threadkiller]

People usually think that bigger is better/faster. Earlier this year we did a '99 Dyna, so if you're just looking for more push from your butt dyno w/no headwork, I'd suggest Andrews 21's. "Lame" specs/numbers I know BUT, the fun factor is from idle to 80. FWIW, any cam realistically "works" for only a 3-3500 RPM band. TK.

[slim55g]

Now I run an 04 ultra, before I did the head work I ran a SE204, waste of money imo, I did the SE255 with the v/h fuel pack, exh & ac like buying a new bike, then did the big bore & heads, turns 100/112 hp/torq I open eyes when my geeezzzer glide runs the front wheel otg for 200' . I cant speak for a dyna, but good torq & steady pull through 6000rpm's

[grynder]

I have a 06 dyna. After a basic stage 1 I did Andrews 37's. They are great street cams and woke the bike up nicely. I eventually ported the heads, put 10.5.1 pistons in and went to a 95" motor which I'm still running. Its a fun bike to ride for sure.

[misfitJason]

I will take a peak at those Andrews

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by Threadkiller

People usually think that bigger is better/faster.

and those who think this are correct...

[Tattoo]

Originally Posted by Lee H

One word answer...WOODS...

I would not even consider another company for off the shelf cams, right now. IF I was going wild with a twin cam, I have a friend at RB Racing, and they have a deal with Branch heads. I would have them custom grind cams for what I wanted

Really??? I have Andrews cams in mine and I'm very happy with them.

[Tattoo]

Originally Posted by Lee H

and those who think this are correct...

Not really, Not if you ride a lot. The more that a motor is built the more problems you will have with it.

[grynder]

Originally Posted by Tattoo

Not really, Not if you ride a lot. The more that a motor is built the more problems you will have with it.

Exactly. For a big twin my 95" motor is perfect. It will stand straight up if I want it to but it will cruise all day on the highway at 70-80mph as well-even 2 up. It has plenty of go to dodge old lady's and texters but not so much that I'm constantly breaking parts.

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by Tattoo

Not really, Not if you ride a lot. The more that a motor is built the more problems you will have with it.

I have over 20,000 on my 129 inch nitrous burning stroker... I ride it to the dyno shootouts, and then back home, and since selling my pan last winter, I have been using it for a daily rider
My problems were 3 primary chains in 3 years, when I was trying to keep it looking like a sleeper. Once I went with the belt drive, problems went away

bigger is relative to the builder. If you try to go big with factory parts, you should not be building engines. If you are going to go big, do it right

[Tattoo]

Originally Posted by Lee H

I have over 20,000 on my 129 inch nitrous burning stroker... I ride it to the dyno shootouts, and then back home, and since selling my pan last winter, I have been using it for a daily rider
My problems were 3 primary chains in 3 years, when I was trying to keep it looking like a sleeper. Once I went with the belt drive, problems went away

bigger is relative to the builder. If you try to go big with factory parts, you should not be building engines. If you are going to go big, do it right

How many years has that bike been together?

[mrpoizun]

For the rpm range you want, I'd go with Andrews' TW21. People who have it love it and it's easy on the valvetrain and the fuel mileage. That S&S 583 has some crazy specs- 203 duration on the intake and 262 on the exhaust! Hard to believe a bike with that cam would run worth a damn. I assume that's S&S' version of an EPA cam.

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by Tattoo

How many years has that bike been together?

I finished it just before the 2008 Salute to America rally (I worked bar security at the rally... I work a lot of the biker events that benefit veterans)

I also had another bike, at the time. That one was a 65 pan frame, with a 103 inch engine. It had evo flywheels in shovel cone cases, with STD pan heads. Evo bottom ends are wider then shovels, so you have to use shovel crank pin, shovel bearings and rods. I rode that bike for over 10 years. I built it to ride cross country to datona in 1996...
my wife decided she liked the hot rod better and a friend wanted the pan

[Dragstews]

Originally Posted by Lee H

I also had another bike, at the time. That one was a 65 pan frame, with a 103 inch engine. It had evo flywheels in shovel cone cases, with STD pan heads. Evo bottom ends are wider then shovels, so you have to use shovel crank pin, shovel bearings and rods. I rode that bike for over 10 years. I built it to ride cross country to datona in 1996...
my wife decided she liked the hot rod better and a friend wanted the pan

I got a bit of a wonder going on here.....

103" with Evo wheels....Got to be a huge bore with that Combo going on...
Do you remember what it was..??

And also a wonder why the need for a Shovel crank pin..???

Also you say the Evo lower ends are wider...Is this on the pinion shaft of the 92 and up models that you are referring to...??

Really curious about this motor build.....Thanks