Help with rough wiring schematic?

[CountryPunk]

Can ya'll take a look and critique me on this? I've never wired up a bike, but have done a LOT of research. More than anything, I need to know Where I need What fuses. Do I appear to be missing anything? This is going on a '99 twin cam. The thunderheart ignition does away with all the factory harness/wiring and uses the crank position sensor to fire the plugs. Thanks a bunch.

[Destralo Roach]

If ya have gear drive cams, or not, get the camcover conversion ingnition cover to run the Evo typ ing, it will save ya a lot of headachs, the Thunder Hart stuff is junk, just pure junk, I hate to rewire bikes that had the mod go bad, like under 2500 miles, some bikes were lucky to get ten thou out if it befor it went bad, and you either have to get onother unit, or rewire to bike, just my 2c. Roach.

[gasketscraper]

Looks good. Isolate the ign. module away from the heat of the engine and it will be reliable. The cam cover conversion cost, will buy a bunch of modules.

[CountryPunk]

I don't have the gear driven cams and I already have the thunderheart, soooo that's not really an option. Thanks for the suggestion though. It's going to be mounted remotely from the engine, rather than paired with the coil and mounted where the horn went.

[CountryPunk]

I found an older post from Irish Rich regarding how to wire one of these Pollak switches and made some minor changes.

* The "B" treminal is your 10ga hot wire from the battery/30amp main breaker

* The "A" terminal will feed a hot wire to your coil, the hot wire for your lighting circuit, and the hot wire for your brake light switch

* The "S" terminal will be the wire that feeds to your starter solinoid's "Terminal 50" - the same terminal on your starter motor that was fed by the wire from your "87" prong of your old starter relay

* The "C" terminal on your switch is the one that goes hot when you push the key in when the key is in the "on" or "start" position. If it was on a boat, this is the terminal that would feed the electric choke. If you wire in a horn, you can use the "C" terminal to feed the horn, and it will blow when you push in the key in the "on" or "start" position

* The "M" terminal with the threaded insert gets a wire from a chassis ground, and the other "M" terminal is the wire that goes to your ground stud on your magneto. It grounds out the mag when you turn the key to "off".

If you don't have a magneto, you don't have to connect anything to the "M" terminals. You also don't have to connect anything to the "C" terminal if you don't run a horn.

Do yourself a favor, and fuse each individual circuit feed wire coming from the "A" terminal when you run them.

That's the idea of running the Pollak switch, the starter relay is built into the switch itself. You don't need the external seperate relay and it's wires anymore.

15a should be OK for the breakers, unless you want to run a halogen headlamp, then step up to a 20a for the lights. If you run an LED tail lamp, with the halogen headlamp, you can run the 15a OK. I use a 30a main circuit breaker, and then I use ATO inline fuses for the branch circuits - easier to hide them around the bike.

[gasketscraper]

Looks like you've done your homework, and Dragon will be delighted to see that you used the "Search" function! I don't know about the push the key for horn function. I would put the button on the bars, you don't have time to fumble for the key switch in an emergency and don't want one hand off the bars in an emergency situation. I have a couple small switches , one of which I am going to use for horn. They are tiny and flanged just drill a small hole in the bars and wire. I have the thunderheart ignition on a twin cam. Use the deutz connectors (the crimp tool is spendy!) if at all possible.

[CountryPunk]

Damn, I was hoping I'd be able to get around using the Deutsch connectors! Maybe I can borrow/rent the tool from a shop or something, it's just One connection. I'm still not 100% on fuses. Do I need one for the horn circuit? According to Rich I need one between Terminal A and the Thunderheart, what size? Seems like one should be between Terminal S and the starter, don't know. Like I said, never done this before, so I'm going into it kinda blind.

[Destralo Roach]

20 amp for the A cercit. no fuse on the main starter wire, and use hevy gage.....Roach.

[punkrod]

I use a cheap d-sub crimper from radio shack for my Deutsch pins. Works great and never had one fall off.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103683
The diagram looks ok. I don't know if your ignition switch has 2 "on" positions but I set mine up so I can kill all the lights and still run the bike. In case I get a short in the lighting circuit, the bike will still run and get me home, (not that I would ever switch off the lights while riding to run in "stealth mode" ). I never run a horn, (clutch and rev works for me).

[CountryPunk]

20 amp for the A cercit. no fuse on the main starter wire, and use hevy gage.....Roach.

Ok, 20 amp is in the revised diagram, no fuse for the starter wire-is 12ga sufficient, or should I go larger? 16ga for the rest of the wiring?

[Destralo Roach]

Yeah, 12g should be fine, but Make shure its a good brand, dont skip on the wire.....Roach.

[CountryPunk]

Originally Posted by punkrod

I use a cheap d-sub crimper from radio shack for my Deutsch pins. Works great and never had one fall off.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103683
The diagram looks ok. I don't know if your ignition switch has 2 "on" positions but I set mine up so I can kill all the lights and still run the bike. In case I get a short in the lighting circuit, the bike will still run and get me home, (not that I would ever switch off the lights while riding to run in "stealth mode" ). I never run a horn, (clutch and rev works for me).

Thanks for the heads up on the crimper, I read where someone wanted nearly $200 for a Deutsch crimper! No, just Off, On, Start and Push to Choke. (Magneto ground also, it won't be used.) With this setup, am I dead in the water if my lighting circuit shorts out?

[punkrod]

The "proper" crimpers are always spendy. Designed for high volume manufacturing, not for Average Joe. You can also snip the connector off altogether and go with a couple bullet plugs or a different type of connector. Since the lighting is not on the same breaker as the ignition you'll be okay in that event. I wire my bikes up a little different and give the 'spensive-puter-trickery ignition modules their own breaker or fuse. It'll be covered by the 30A in your diagram but I like it separated from the starting circuit.
Mine's got a toggle switch under the tank for the lighting.

[CountryPunk]

See, I couldn't understand why not just cut the connector off and use a more common type. I may do away with the one Deutsch connector altogether. How would I separate the ignition circuit from the starting any further than it is? Just by putting an inline fuse between the switch and ignition box?

[punkrod]

Originally Posted by CountryPunk

Just by putting an inline fuse between the switch and ignition box?

Yep.

[gasketscraper]

Originally Posted by punkrod

The "proper" crimpers are always spendy. Designed for high volume manufacturing, not for Average Joe. You can also snip the connector off altogether and go with a couple bullet plugs or a different type of connector. Since the lighting is not on the same breaker as the ignition you'll be okay in that event. I wire my bikes up a little different and give the 'spensive-puter-trickery ignition modules their own breaker or fuse. It'll be covered by the 30A in your diagram but I like it separated from the starting circuit.
Mine's got a toggle switch under the tank for the lighting.

Good info on the budget crimpers. I'd sure try and stay with the duetz connector if possible. They are first class when assembled with the di-electric lubricant. Almost water proof. Cat uses them on all their Marine engines.

[Destralo Roach]

^^ yeah, Cant go wrong!!!

[nigel]

I agree about the Deutsch connectors. They are very nice.
I also agree on using good wire, I used This wire

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7304k131/=5qyloe


You can get away with a smaller gauge wire than conventional too. It is not cheap though.

[villa]

if you have to extend wires make sure you use butt connectors with the shriktube hanging out the ends. before shrinking them fill the ends with silicone to get a tight seal this will prevent corrosion.

[CountryPunk]

This is all really helpful advice, I sure appreciate it.