The Jockey Journal

pipeworx · 02-18-2009, 10:47 PM

Well, I have a client that is having me build them a motorcycle and I ran into some problems on the tank today. I thought that since I was having to repair the tank that I would share a little and possibly help someone else out. First, let me apologize for the blury pics as everything was taken with my cell phone. The tank is an old banana wassel. I do not know if they repop these but even if one could be found it would need to have the tunnel modified for the frame that is being used. Here is a pic of what I started with, looks like a clean vintage tank.

I was cutting the edges off of the tank, to clean the look of the tank up, and stripping back the paint to prep it for TIG welding, when I found some bodo peaking out at me. So I decided to start stripping back into the tank to see how much was there.

Funny thing was that the filler did not go toward the back of the tank that far and it seemed to be concentrated on the front corner of the tank. The big questions I was wanting answered was how deep did it actually go. Well, I started to dig into the fun stuff and dig, and dig, then this little nasty thing revealed itself.

When I looked at this I knew that the tank shell would have to be seperated from the tunnel so I could get inside and metalwork out the cavernous dents. So after cutting the edges of the tank off with a cut off wheel and then grinding the edges down with a sanding disc this is what the tunnel removal looked like.

After getting the tunnel removed I got inside with one of my post dollies and started working out the dents with a body hammer. I worked the tank for an hour or so until I got it metalfinished close enough where it would only need a skim coat of body enhancer.

The client had a custom gooseneck frame made by Flyrite so the top tube was at a lower angle, more horizontal, than the usual frame. This meant that in order for the tank to sit properly on the frame a new tunnel would have to be made to allow the front of the tank to sit higher and look level with the top of the motor. So I grabbed a piece of spare tubing and some 16 gauge cold rolled sheetmetal. After taking a few measurements, and adding to them, I clamped the tubing on top of the sheetmetal so it could be folded over the tube. Remember when doing this that the tube will need to be lower than the centerline of the sheetmetal because the sheetmetal gets wrapped around the tube. Like so.

After that I set the new tunnel on the backbone of the frame and slid the tank over the tunnel where it looked level with the head of the motor. I marked the outline of the tank on the tunnel with a sharpie and took the new tunnel over to trim the excess material off with my electric shear, but some hand shears will work also. Instead of welding on tabs to mount the tank I left more material on the leading and trailing edge on the top of the new tunnel to mount the tank. This way the new tunnel is one piece with the mounts, which is made out of 16 gauge, and gives the tank more strength. Most tanks are made out of 18 gauge material so the 16 gauge is just some extra insurance. This is where I ended up at the end of the day.

Tomorrow I will make a filler piece on the english wheel, due to the compond curve on the front of the tank, then I will TIG weld everything in. I will also fill the bungs where the petcocks are now then move them to the rearmost part of the tank. This will solve the clearance problem with the petcocks and motor that exist at this time. I hope this has been useful and contributes to the board in a positive way. If others are interested I will take better photos tomorrow, left my camera at home, and update the progress on the tank.

Frankenfab · 02-18-2009, 11:08 PM

Nice work. Please post your progress, really love to see more detailed fab work on here.

TheManInBlack · 02-18-2009, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pipeworx

I hope this has been useful and contributes to the board in a positive way.

YES

zboy403 · 02-19-2009, 12:13 AM

TRIPPLE YES!!!! I picked up an old wassel not too long ago and havent stripped the paint yet, hope i dont find what you did. . .

Cali Kingpin · 02-19-2009, 12:51 AM

Great work.Thanks for showin' us.That's a cool frame too!

Gordo-uk · 02-19-2009, 02:45 AM

Thanks Pipeworx...

punkrock gearhead · 02-19-2009, 09:58 AM

much appreciated.

Scorcher · 02-19-2009, 11:23 AM

Real nice frame!!

-Jason

Marcy · 02-19-2009, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scorcher

Real nice frame!!

-Jason

You would say that...haha
How long did it take to get???

Marcy

Scorcher · 02-19-2009, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcy

You would say that...haha
How long did it take to get???

Marcy

I think you really mean, how many frames.....

-Jason

Marcy · 02-19-2009, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scorcher

I think you really mean, how many frames.....

-Jason

Maybe one more and it will finally be right!

Marcy

Scorcher · 02-19-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcy

Maybe one more and it will finally be right!

Marcy

HA HA.

Nothing a heating torch and clamps wont fix.

-Jason

trainwreck13 · 02-20-2009, 02:08 PM

Great timing, I just cut the tunnel out of a tank I'm working on and plan on making a new one tonight.

Thanks!

fool · 02-21-2009, 01:47 AM

great post! thanks

Firedome-TX · 03-17-2009, 02:09 PM

Thanks for the post!

BTW...NICE welding table!

rivera · 03-17-2009, 02:51 PM

nice work, thanks for sharing.

02-18-2009, 10:47 PM	#1
pipeworx Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 88	How to Rehab a Tank Well, I have a client that is having me build them a motorcycle and I ran into some problems on the tank today. I thought that since I was having to repair the tank that I would share a little and possibly help someone else out. First, let me apologize for the blury pics as everything was taken with my cell phone. The tank is an old banana wassel. I do not know if they repop these but even if one could be found it would need to have the tunnel modified for the frame that is being used. Here is a pic of what I started with, looks like a clean vintage tank. I was cutting the edges off of the tank, to clean the look of the tank up, and stripping back the paint to prep it for TIG welding, when I found some bodo peaking out at me. So I decided to start stripping back into the tank to see how much was there. Funny thing was that the filler did not go toward the back of the tank that far and it seemed to be concentrated on the front corner of the tank. The big questions I was wanting answered was how deep did it actually go. Well, I started to dig into the fun stuff and dig, and dig, then this little nasty thing revealed itself. When I looked at this I knew that the tank shell would have to be seperated from the tunnel so I could get inside and metalwork out the cavernous dents. So after cutting the edges of the tank off with a cut off wheel and then grinding the edges down with a sanding disc this is what the tunnel removal looked like. After getting the tunnel removed I got inside with one of my post dollies and started working out the dents with a body hammer. I worked the tank for an hour or so until I got it metalfinished close enough where it would only need a skim coat of body enhancer. The client had a custom gooseneck frame made by Flyrite so the top tube was at a lower angle, more horizontal, than the usual frame. This meant that in order for the tank to sit properly on the frame a new tunnel would have to be made to allow the front of the tank to sit higher and look level with the top of the motor. So I grabbed a piece of spare tubing and some 16 gauge cold rolled sheetmetal. After taking a few measurements, and adding to them, I clamped the tubing on top of the sheetmetal so it could be folded over the tube. Remember when doing this that the tube will need to be lower than the centerline of the sheetmetal because the sheetmetal gets wrapped around the tube. Like so. After that I set the new tunnel on the backbone of the frame and slid the tank over the tunnel where it looked level with the head of the motor. I marked the outline of the tank on the tunnel with a sharpie and took the new tunnel over to trim the excess material off with my electric shear, but some hand shears will work also. Instead of welding on tabs to mount the tank I left more material on the leading and trailing edge on the top of the new tunnel to mount the tank. This way the new tunnel is one piece with the mounts, which is made out of 16 gauge, and gives the tank more strength. Most tanks are made out of 18 gauge material so the 16 gauge is just some extra insurance. This is where I ended up at the end of the day. Tomorrow I will make a filler piece on the english wheel, due to the compond curve on the front of the tank, then I will TIG weld everything in. I will also fill the bungs where the petcocks are now then move them to the rearmost part of the tank. This will solve the clearance problem with the petcocks and motor that exist at this time. I hope this has been useful and contributes to the board in a positive way. If others are interested I will take better photos tomorrow, left my camera at home, and update the progress on the tank. __________________ When fascism comes to America it will be wrapped in a flag, carrying a cross. --Sinclair Lewis Last edited by pipeworx; 02-18-2009 at 10:53 PM.

02-18-2009, 11:08 PM	#2
Frankenfab Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 237	Re: How to Rehab a Tank Nice work. Please post your progress, really love to see more detailed fab work on here. __________________ "Fuck the world." -John Rambo.

02-19-2009, 12:13 AM	#4
zboy403 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gbg, PA Posts: 110	Re: How to Rehab a Tank TRIPPLE YES!!!! I picked up an old wassel not too long ago and havent stripped the paint yet, hope i dont find what you did. . .

02-19-2009, 12:51 AM	#5
Cali Kingpin Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 501	Re: How to Rehab a Tank Great work.Thanks for showin' us.That's a cool frame too! __________________ WTF is "Factory Kustom" parts?

02-19-2009, 02:45 AM	#6
Gordo-uk Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 519	Re: How to Rehab a Tank Thanks Pipeworx...

02-19-2009, 09:58 AM	#7
punkrock gearhead Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Thousand Oaks CA Posts: 141	Re: How to Rehab a Tank much appreciated. __________________ I'm a pervert, not a sadist... The Obama nation is an ABOMINATION!!!

02-19-2009, 11:23 AM	#8
Scorcher Administrator Join Date: May 2005 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,111	Re: How to Rehab a Tank Real nice frame!! -Jason

02-20-2009, 02:08 PM	#13
trainwreck13 Junior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Greenville Souf Kakalaka Posts: 18	Re: How to Rehab a Tank Great timing, I just cut the tunnel out of a tank I'm working on and plan on making a new one tonight. Thanks!

02-21-2009, 01:47 AM	#14
fool Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: chop cult, qcb, xlf & here Posts: 63	Re: How to Rehab a Tank great post! thanks

03-17-2009, 02:09 PM	#15
Firedome-TX Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 92	Re: How to Rehab a Tank Thanks for the post! BTW...NICE welding table! __________________ --------------------------------------- http://www.austinroadrunners.com http://www.harvestclassic.org/

03-17-2009, 02:51 PM	#16
rivera Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 297	Re: How to Rehab a Tank nice work, thanks for sharing.

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