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Old 02-18-2014, 02:14 PM   #1
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Default Homebrew Parkerizing

Here's a little info for y'all that like doing stuff with your own two hands.

I always wondered about the "homebrew parkerizing" recipes that you see on the web, so I figured I'd do a little experimenting. . . and here's the results -

Ingredients:

Klean-Strip Prep&Etch
"D" size batteries
Steel wool (degreased; clean it good with with dish soap)
Water (We have pretty good tap water, that's what I used. Distilled water will also work)

Other stuff:

Stainless steel pot (you can also use enameled steel or pyrex glass, don't use aluminum. You can even use a carbon steel container, but it will get parkerized)
Hot plate or other heat source
Candy thermometer
Oil pan and oil (old 50 weight works good, so would most other oil)

Obligatory "Safety Warning"
Some of this stuff is hazardous, so use common sense and respect the environment. You might consider this process similar to having sex . . . If you are a solo act - no worries. If someone else is in the area, make sure they are a consenting adult - no children or animals (please!) As far as personal protective gear; some may use a 3 piece rubber suit, others may go bareback. I would suggest plenty of ventilation and rubber gloves, but that's just me .
edit: (my ol' lady asked me to tell you guys to protect your eyes too! )

The process -
I took 3 batteries and cut the tops off them; you'll find an outer layer of mixed manganese dioxide and carbon (I don't know what the percentage of manganese dioxide and carbon are, but the carbon doesn't hurt anything) and a light-colored mushy center core; save the outer layer, it contains the manganese dioxide - that's the stuff you need. Mash it down into a fine powder; I put it in a heavy plastic bag and used a metal roller to reduce it (a hammer will work just fine).
Put 12 cups (96 oz.) water in your pot and turn the heat on. Add 2 cups (16 oz.) Prep&Etch. (ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER, not water to acid) Add your manganese dioxide powder (3 "D" batteries will be about 7 oz. of powder). Throw a half of a biscuit of clean, degreased steel wool into the mix. Bring the homebrew up to 190 degrees F. as measured with your candy thermometer. Give it a stir every now and then. When the steel wool dissolves and the solution is at 190 degrees F. you can add your parts. Depending on the part and the finish you want it will take somewhere between 10 and 30 minutes. Remove the part, dunk it in hot (boiling?) water, dry it (it'll probably dry by itself from the heat), and then put it in your oil pan (heat the oil, it will work better) so the part is immersed. That's about it.

Other stuff to consider -

Parkerizing only works on carbon steel. The cleaner your part is before parkerizing, the better it will look after. Get all the rust or plating off, right down to bare metal and degrease it. Blasting with beads or grit works good, wire brushing works so-so. A dip in muriatic acid followed by a water rinse works real good as a final step before parkerizing. Different carbon and alloy contents in the steel will affect the final parkerized color.

Here are a few pics -

Ingredients



Pot with "Homebrew" and hot plate



Parkerized parts and oil bath



Closer view. The fender brackets are lighter color than the spokes. I did the spokes with a weaker (more diluted with H2O) solution. Stronger is not always better. Experiment!



Have fun and Good Luck!
Geo.
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:22 PM   #2
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Who is parker? Why did he go to all this trouble in the first place?
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:23 PM   #3
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

A little more info -
After the first time you use your solution, go ahead and refine it further. You can pour your homebrew through a clean rag, coffee filters, or a fine screen and filter out all the crap that's on the bottom of the pot. There will be quite a bit of solids and semi-solids. You'll end up with a bluish/yellowish/greenish (Hell, I don't know what color you'd call it!) liquid that can be re-used. It actually works better the second and third time around. I use a lid on my parker pot to keep down evaporation. You can just add plain water to replace what ever is lost through evaporation.
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:25 PM   #4
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAWS View Post
Who is parker? Why did he go to all this trouble in the first place?
He is the guy that came up with the rustproofing process that was used on Harley Davidson factory parts.
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:29 PM   #5
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Two different types of "parkerizing" - manganese and zinc. Manganese is typically darker, like dark grey or black. Zinc is typically lighter, like light grey. I like the darker color, so my recipe is for "manganese parkerizing".
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:33 PM   #6
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Niiiiiiice!
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:33 PM   #7
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by old.wrench View Post
He is the guy that came up with the rustproofing process that was used on Harley Davidson factory parts.

That's what I actually suspected, but didn't think it really was like that.

I haven't seen the process, but am familiar with the looks.

I think my wife would kill me if I used her stock pot..
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:49 PM   #8
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

You can scrounge up an old pot (that stainless pot in the pic is 16 or 18 quarts and cost 12 bucks new), and use any heat source that will bring the brew to 190 degrees F. (the hot plate in the pic was 12 bucks new). This is a low-buck operation .
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

What about atf? I know its wax, just wondering about colors.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:32 PM   #10
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Jaws,
I used some Ford type ATF (red stuff) on one batch a while back and I didn't really notice a color difference on the finished product, but I do remember reading something about somebody using an oil with lanolin in it that might give a greenish cast to the finish. Something else to experiment with? . I had a few quarts of pretty clean 50 weight (first oil change after a recent rebuild) that I used on the stuff in the pics, seemed to work pretty good. It seems to work better when the freshly parkerized part is still warm and the oil is heated up. I also put a coat of Collonite #845 "Insulator Wax" on my parkerized parts before I put them into service. Hell, I use that "Insulator Wax" on everything - paint, chrome, parked, and cad plated.

Geo.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:37 PM   #11
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.....................................have my babys. <3
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:54 PM   #12
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Thanks for the tutorial. Very educational. Not sure what insulator wax is or where one would find it. Will ear wax work?
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:57 PM   #13
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by gasketscraper View Post
Thanks for the tutorial. Very educational. Not sure what insulator wax is or where one would find it. Will ear wax work?
great diy tech, thanks for that

fritz has a good supply of ear wax if i recall
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:58 PM   #14
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by gasketscraper View Post
Thanks for the tutorial. Very educational. Not sure what insulator wax is or where one would find it. Will ear wax work?
Definitely! I've heard that the ear wax works best if the bolt is still hot when you stick it in your ear
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:03 PM   #15
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

In all seriousness, can you enlighten me as to what insulator wax is and where you can get it?
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:40 PM   #16
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Gasketscraper,
Here is the "Insulator Wax" I use. One of the old-time car guys recommended it to me a while back and I've been using it ever since.



Here is a link for it:

http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/insulator-wax/

Look under the "Industrial" heading at the top of the page too. It's some pretty good stuff, and works good for long term protection. Easy to use too, wax on and whacks off .

Geo.
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:00 PM   #17
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Nice work Geo!
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:56 PM   #18
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Wink Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

This is a really cool thread and thank you Geo, probably belongs in the tech thread.
But I have to admit, I couldn't help but wonder, if the corner of walk and don't walk is in Arkansas , the meth cooking capital of the world?!
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:54 PM   #19
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

That looks way easier than driving across town. I'm gonna make up a little vat of this soon. It looks indistinguishable from the zinc phosphate I got done. So this is called manganese phosphate?
Btw my plating guy dipped my stuff in a bucket of water soluble oil. It was milky white.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:56 PM   #20
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

And where do you get the kleen strip? Home depot?
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:46 PM   #21
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

4easy,
Yes, Home Depot. About 15 bucks a jug. I originally started using the "Prep&Etch" for treating metal prior to paint, it's pretty much the same thing as the "Bonderizing" process that Harley used that we were talking about in your thread. The main ingredient in it is phosphoric acid. All the ingredients are cheap-cheap. This homebrew stuff works as good as the official (expensive ) parkerizing solution I used to buy from Brownells.

Edit- I really like that idea of using the water soluble oil if you plan on painting the part. I've seen that white-looking water soluble oil used as a coolant/lube for machining.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:03 PM   #22
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCgran View Post
This is a really cool thread and thank you Geo, probably belongs in the tech thread.
But I have to admit, I couldn't help but wonder, if the corner of walk and don't walk is in Arkansas , the meth cooking capital of the world?!
Your welcome!
No! That is a different corner . You might be talking about my old friend from the '70's, a guy by the name of Arky. He was a brilliant chemist who got drafted and then became disenchanted with things and turned into a "cook".
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:12 PM   #23
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This is gonna be great. I wanna do my frame, but my guy only has a big lipped 55gal plastic jug. I was planning on having to squeeze the sides together so I could jam first the neck end in , then do the other half after. I wonder if there's a way to heat the frame and spray this mess on it? The spray would be hot of course. I have been collecting water heater elements of every shape and size for a beer making apparatus for quite a while, I may be stealing a few.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:29 PM   #24
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

4easy,
What I've learned about the "Prep&Etch" is that you can cut it with water quite a bit and it will still work as a metal "prep" at room temperature, but when you heat it, the solution becomes much more active. Maybe for a frame you could brush it on or use one of those little pump-up sprayers like they use for weed or bug killer. It might work better than dunking the frame and worrying about the solution finding a way inside the tubes and getting trapped in there. Acid inside the frame tubes could be bad mojo .
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:47 AM   #25
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Ain't rocket surgery indeed!

I've played with plating, bluing, and some other surface treatments, but I don't like to have to order the solutions. Just takes something away from the inherent homebrew-ness of it. I can't wait to get out the hot plate and try this. Much thanks for sharing.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:33 AM   #26
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

The real reason that I posted this stuff is to encourage folks to experiment a little bit with what ever they might have on hand in the way of parts or materials, and make something happen! I worked in the construction trades for most of my life and I know this can be a slow time of year (no work = no money) for a lot of folks, especially if you live in the North. So get out your tools and get to work on something!!

Geo.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:59 AM   #27
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

I just spoke to the hottest older pottery store lady ever. And she sold me magnesium oxide powder 10lbs for $18.69.
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:20 PM   #28
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

That is the way to go (especially if she's hot!). No carbon mixed in with manganese dioxide like you'll have with the batteries. Although, the carbon doesn't seem to have ill effect on the parkerizing solution. I've got a recipe somewhere for making a large batch of solution with the amount of manganese dioxide given as a weight. I'll dig it out and post it up for you.
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:14 PM   #29
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Here are a couple more "recipes"

This one is supposed to be what the Parker family used as their original formula for their commercial rustproofing treatment business -

1/2 gallon of 20% phosphoric acid

3 lbs. of manganese dioxide powder

120 gallons of water

Heat solution to 190 degrees F. and soak parts till they stop bubbling



Another one using manganese dioxide powder -

1/2 cup Prep&Etch

1/4 cup manganese dioxide powder

1 steel wool pad (degreased!)

1 gallon water


There is quite a bit of variance between recipes.
It's good to experiment!
Don't use a valuable part for your test piece!

Please keep in mind - I've had better results using less phosphoric acid, rather than more phosphoric acid. When you heat the solution to 190 degrees F. it becomes very active, in other words if you mix up a batch of solution it may have very little effect on a part at room temperature, but when you heat to 190, it will really get after it and if you leave the part in a strong solution for a long enough time, it will f**k it up!

The main thing you are trying to achieve with manganese parkerizing is to get a nice even dark grey or black surface coating that will absorb and hold oil. You'll have a good looking rust resistant coating that will last for many years. In the event that the parkerized surface does get a little surface rust on it, you can clean it up with some fine steel wool and a little bit oil and still retain most of the original parkerized surface finish.

Good Luck!
Geo.
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:43 PM   #30
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Geo, I like that first recipe! Went to the chemical store on the way to emissions, (where I'm sitting now) and picked up a a totally different kind of gal. She's less than pure, but homer likes her.


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Old 02-19-2014, 01:44 PM   #31
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The first recipe doesn't have steel wool though. Is it possible without it? Was it just left out?
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:45 PM   #32
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Good stuff . Thank you
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:00 PM   #33
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Here are my thoughts on the steel wool, 4ez.
The steel wool is added to most of the recipes to artificially age the solution. You'll notice that when you add the steel wool it will start fizzing, and eventually dissolve. I believe you would get the same results from the solution with out adding the steel wool, but first time or two that you use the solution it will take longer to get the desired effect. That probably accounts for the steel wool not being in the original "family recipe". Here's a little side story - the first job I got after I got my drivers license was at a tool&die and stamping shop. I used to deliver parts that we made to one of the original Parker Rust-Proofing shops in Cleveland OH. for the parkerizing treatment. It was a kind of a hell-hole, with huge vats of bubbling solution everywhere you looked; hot, humid, and stinky. Parker Rust-Proofing is still in business, in fact Colony (motorcycle fastener and parts supplier) has parkerizing done there today!
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:04 PM   #34
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

4ez,
Hey! is your friend a Weimaraner?

Where did you find the phosphoric acid?
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:28 PM   #35
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

I was sort of thinking that, because I'm throwing steel in there anyway.
Homer is a weimaraner , he has to be with me during work or he gets chewy.
I got the acid from adchemco. Hes literally 20 feet away from the guy who did my parkerizing, lol. The gallon was like $60.
plating places are usually really gross
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:49 PM   #36
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Well, you've got all the ingredients now, all you need is a pot or a tank and some heat and a reliable thermometer (the small cheapo ones for making candy work good), which I know won't be a problem for you. Keep us informed on your progress so we can see how your new parkerizing service works out.
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:56 PM   #37
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Slapped some stuff together that I had laying around. Ill try the industrial batch on a smaller scale tonight.

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Old 02-19-2014, 09:52 PM   #38
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So my juice was black, and after the part was in a while, (seems like it bubbled for a long long time) it got a reddish tint on the part and the wire. Anyway my severtech blade was getting worn looking and was originally parkerized , so it was my test piece. And it is a2 tool steel btw. The finished product is much smoother and more even than the zinc phosphate my guy did on my other parts. I think the red tint is from my copper clad heating element I used to heat solution, (210v and 4500w, boils two gal in about 5 min!) Because its spotlessly new looking now.






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Old 02-19-2014, 10:27 PM   #39
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Homer is a weimaraner, he has to be with me during work or he gets chewy.

Who is "chewy" and why don't he like getting got?


Seriously though, that's some cool shit!
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:18 PM   #40
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

I have an old beer Keg, that I think will be ideal for this project! Thinking a Robert Shaw temp contactor controlling a heating element would be the trick set up. And I've got most of the parts! Thanks again for the info George!
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:31 AM   #41
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Theres some info in Bruce Palmers book and a few pics.
which might be useful to the home 'parkerizer'
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:21 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by foureasy View Post
So my juice was black, and after the part was in a while, (seems like it bubbled for a long long time) it got a reddish tint on the part and the wire. Anyway my severtech blade was getting worn looking and was originally parkerized , so it was my test piece. And it is a2 tool steel btw. The finished product is much smoother and more even than the zinc phosphate my guy did on my other parts. I think the red tint is from my copper clad heating element I used to heat solution, (210v and 4500w, boils two gal in about 5 min!) Because its spotlessly new looking now.






Dam! The finish on that knife blade looks good - really nice and even. That's how I got into the parkerizing and bluing in the first place. I forge my own damascus steel for my knives, and I use bluing or parkerizing to give the finish some additional contrast and protection against rust. What I've found with the parkerizing is that the higher the carbon or alloy content and the higher the hardness of the steel, the lighter the color of the parkerized finish will be. A2 is a great blade steel but it's a little more difficult for me to heat treat with my primitive set-up. I generally stick with the simpler to harden oil or water hardening steels. I agree with you that trace of redness in the finish that you mention (I really can't see it in the pic) came from the copper. I'll bet if you tried a piece of low carbon 1008 mild steel in your solution the finish would be much darker than the knife blade. Keep up the Good Work .

just a side note: For anybody who might wonder about buying the manganese dioxide powder from a pottery supply place - pottery makers put it on their work and then fire it to give a blackish colored glaze.

Geo.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:40 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by gasketscraper View Post
I have an old beer Keg, that I think will be ideal for this project! Thinking a Robert Shaw temp contactor controlling a heating element would be the trick set up. And I've got most of the parts! Thanks again for the info George!
You're very welcome to the info Gasketscraper. Glad to be of some help.
One thing to watch out for, the phosphoric acid likes to eat aluminum (and copper, as 4easy mentioned), so if the keg is aluminum it might have a short life. Also, adding additional elements (like aluminum or copper and especially oil or grease) into the parkerizing "soup" may contaminate it and make it less effective. Cleaning down to bare steel and degreasing (Simple Green or acetone works good) the part before parkerizing is the key to getting a nice finish. I've got a real good result from doing a little soak in muriatic acid followed by good rinse in clear water before the parkerizing process too. Good Luck

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Old 02-20-2014, 12:16 PM   #44
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I have a large vat of hydrochloric acid that I dipped the blade in before the phosphoric . And I think I'm gonna get a stainless element too
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:58 PM   #45
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

You are right on it. Quick, but fast!
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:46 PM   #46
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

This is so great!!


If we still had "Tech Week" you would win...

Sadly we don't have enough tech going on to justify it. I'm as much to blame as anyone...

Thank you guys for your efforts and displaying.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:22 AM   #47
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

This thread is great. Looking at this lousy fad of purposely built rusty motorcycles is giving me explosive diaraha. Hope it catches on, the Parkerizing that is
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:39 PM   #48
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So I picked up a nice stainless filter housing from the scrap yard, as I weighed it I started smelling someone burning a fatty. Turns out the city uses their incinerator after cases are over, and the yard manager Caitlin says that when its in bales they have to burn it with a torch first, lol! They get paid like $2-3/lb to burn all the dope that doesn't make it past tucson!
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:22 AM   #49
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Great thread.Thanks much for sharing old.wrench and everybody else !

I'm about to parkerize some parts.Will old,dark motor oil affect the color of the parkerizing ? I have some old 10W-40 oil left from my daily driver which I changed lately or should I better get some other oil ? Thought about doing a test piece but since asking on here is so easy,I just go ahead and ask.
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:01 AM   #50
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Frenz,
The dark grey or black color that you get as a result of the parkerizing process comes from the manganese in this particular recipe. There is another recipe that uses zinc, which will give a lighter grey color to the finished piece. The color of the finished piece is also affected by whatever elements the steel might be alloyed with, the carbon content, and the hardness of the piece. I've found that low-carbon mild steel generally parks the darkest, and as the alloy content, carbon content, or hardness increases, the color of the the finished piece will be lighter. The dark surface finish that results from the parkerizing is sort of microscopically porous, so when you give the part an oil soak after pulling it out of the parkerizing bath the oil soaks in, helping with the rust resistance. (Or on the other hand, if you plan on painting the part instead, you may want to forgo the oil; I believe this is what Harley did as part of their "bonderizing" process.) So, to finally get around to answering your question , the dirty oil may give a very slightly darker color because some of the dirt may embed itself in the finish, but I don't see where it would be a problem at all. The last step of the process is wiping the part down with a rag, and most of the dirty oil will end up on the rag anyhow. I've used whatever oil I had on hand, and honestly, I haven't noticed any real difference in what the finished product looked like. So, have at it, and Good Luck!

Geo.
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:06 AM   #51
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

great info and COOL!
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:33 PM   #52
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

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Originally Posted by old.wrench View Post
Frenz,
The dark grey or black color that you get as a result of the parkerizing process comes from the manganese in this particular recipe. There is another recipe that uses zinc, which will give a lighter grey color to the finished piece. The color of the finished piece is also affected by whatever elements the steel might be alloyed with, the carbon content, and the hardness of the piece. I've found that low-carbon mild steel generally parks the darkest, and as the alloy content, carbon content, or hardness increases, the color of the the finished piece will be lighter. The dark surface finish that results from the parkerizing is sort of microscopically porous, so when you give the part an oil soak after pulling it out of the parkerizing bath the oil soaks in, helping with the rust resistance. (Or on the other hand, if you plan on painting the part instead, you may want to forgo the oil; I believe this is what Harley did as part of their "bonderizing" process.) So, to finally get around to answering your question , the dirty oil may give a very slightly darker color because some of the dirt may embed itself in the finish, but I don't see where it would be a problem at all. The last step of the process is wiping the part down with a rag, and most of the dirty oil will end up on the rag anyhow. I've used whatever oil I had on hand, and honestly, I haven't noticed any real difference in what the finished product looked like. So, have at it, and Good Luck!

Geo.
Thanks Geo ! Much appreciated info.I have a solution based on manganese.Using new oil might be a "cleaner" working-process then but I probably will use the old oil,simply because I have it here.

Can I also place old Knuckle/Pan buddy pegs into the parkerizing solution ? Those rubber ones with steel insert showing off at the end.I'm just worried about the rubber.Any experience with this ?
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:59 PM   #53
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Frenz,
I think it would be a good idea to remove the rubber covers before parkerizing. You need to heat the solution to 190 - 200 degrees F.(when thoroughly heated it will just be coming up on a real slow boil, but use a thermometer) which would probably break down the rubber and also most likely trap some of the solution inside between the cover and the peg - not good .

Also, the parkerizing solution works best on really clean parts, so you want to remove all paint, rust, etc., and also make sure you degrease the parts real good before you cook them in the parkerizing bath. That way, you'll get a nice, consistent, and even finish. Have fun and let us know how you make out!

Geo.
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:10 PM   #54
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Would there be a down side to doing a gas tank with this method?? Outside of the tank only.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:22 PM   #55
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Farmass,
I haven't done anything that large yet, but I've heard about somebody wanting to do the inside of a tank for rust protection. As long as you had a big enough vessel to hold the parkerizing solution, I really don't see any downside to doing the whole tank. One of the other guys on the forum (foureasy) was making up a really good-sized stainless tank with a thermostatically regulated heating element and mucho gallons of parkerizing solution that would most likely be big enough for a gas tank. Maybe he'll check in?

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Old 05-12-2014, 10:38 PM   #56
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Kill two birds with one stone doing the inside aswell. Also wont have to worry about the thing floating. I think I have the perfect vessel, a turkey fryer that hasn't been used in about 6 years. Thanks for the idea!
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:34 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by old.wrench View Post
Frenz,
I think it would be a good idea to remove the rubber covers before parkerizing. You need to heat the solution to 190 - 200 degrees F.(when thoroughly heated it will just be coming up on a real slow boil, but use a thermometer) which would probably break down the rubber and also most likely trap some of the solution inside between the cover and the peg - not good .

Also, the parkerizing solution works best on really clean parts, so you want to remove all paint, rust, etc., and also make sure you degrease the parts real good before you cook them in the parkerizing bath. That way, you'll get a nice, consistent, and even finish. Have fun and let us know how you make out!

Geo.
Thanks much Geo.Really appreciate your help.I already cleaned my parts.I used citric acid instead of muriatic acid just because it's "friendlier" to work with and you can buy it at your local discounter in the household section for a couple bucks.The citric acid solution works surprisingly well once you heat it up.Zinc and cadmium plated parts to bare metal in 15-20 minutes.Muriatic acid surely is faster but I was kinda worried about the fumes etc.

Once the parts are out of the citric acid solution I put them in a hot mix of water and washing powder to neutralize the citric acid.After that in hot water for more cleaning and then a rub off with acetone shortly before I put them in hot water to pre-heat with matching temperature to the parkerizing solution.

I didn't do the parkerizing yet.Still wait for the delivery of my stainless steel bowl.Did I do anything wrong yet ?
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:27 AM   #58
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Frenz,
Your cleaning process sounds pretty thorough, you make a good point about how acids become much more active and efficient when they are heated. My experiments with heated muriatic acid has also shown the same increased activity, but I should mention that it also releases a higher volume of toxic fumes, so you need to be careful. The heated citric acid sounds like it may be a good and certainly safer alternative . I believe that the key to the Parkerizing process is the way that the phosphoric acid (in combination with either manganese or zinc) reacts when it's heated to approx. 195 degrees F. It's another example of how when heated, different elements and compounds become more volatile and active - sort of like the way the weather has been responding to the increased heat we've been dumping into the atmosphere.

Farmass,
I've had my eye on a turkey fryer too! I think it would make a hell of a good parkerizing pot and heat source. My current setup is a four gallon (16 quart) stainless pot and a hot plate. Cheap and efficient is what I like, no reason to break the bank!

Geo.

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Old 05-13-2014, 02:40 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old.wrench View Post
Frenz,
Your cleaning process sounds pretty thorough, you make a good point about how acids become much more active and efficient when they are heated. My experiments with heated muriatic acid has also shown the same increased activity, but I should mention that it also releases a higher volume of toxic fumes, so you need to be careful. The heated citric acid sounds like it may be a good and certainly safer alternative . I believe that the key to the Parkerizing process is the way that the phosphoric acid (in combination with either manganese or zinc) reacts when it's heated to approx. 195 degrees F. It's another example of how when heated, different elements and compounds become more volatile and active - sort of like the way the weather has been responding to the increased heat we've been dumping into the atmosphere.


Geo.
Thanks Geo ! I'm pretty curious to see how my parts will turn out.I even "polished" bigger parts with steel-wool hoping to get a cleaner more even finish.Just like it is with paint - preparation is everything.That's what I thought.Some parts had little scratches from using a wire brush.Let's hope all of this pays off.Thanks again Geo !
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:13 PM   #60
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Once the parts are out of the citric acid solution I put them in a hot mix of water and washing powder to neutralize the citric acid.
Just a short update.The washing-powder didn't do its job good enough.After a while the parts started to get small stains.It started to rust very quick.The acid was still active.I then used baking soda to neutralize the citric acid and that worked pretty well.The stains were gone in seconds.The higher concentration of natron obviously did the trick.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:25 AM   #61
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Thanks for posting this Old Wrench! Here is my first batch of home brew Parkerized parts. I think they turned out great.
Thanks again!
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:34 AM   #62
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Could only get one picture on the first post.
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Old 07-12-2014, 11:06 AM   #63
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Irondoctor,
They look good!
To help further and add to the homebrew knowledge base, what recipe did you end up using?

Geo.
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:35 PM   #64
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I followed the recipe from your opening post. 6 cups water, 2 cups acid, 3 d cell batteries, 1/2 biscuit steel wool. 190 degrees for 10-20 min. Then a dunk in water then into a bucket of old oil. I did not heat the water but it was about 100 outside when I did all this. I did heat the oil.

I pulled them out at 10 min and they looked a bit light so I put them back in for another 10. I think they all look great although the brake pedal and bracket are a bit dark. Pry should have checked them at 5 min. The bolts are a bit light so I am guessing the harder the material the longer it should soak. I showed the parts to some friends and they did not notice the different shades until I brought it to their attention. So I am pry being to critical of my work. You know how it goes.

Anyway I am stoked about this process and have already made a huge pile of parts next to the bead blaster to do this to. Now all my bikes and cars will be displaying the Old Wrench home brew parkerizing.
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:56 PM   #65
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Hm, that does look nice. Good way to spruce up some gun parts too I'd guess.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:38 PM   #66
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Default How to Parkerize Motorcycle Parts

I've been parkerizing some parts to go with my '33 VL build and put together a tutorial on how to do it. Turns out once you get the parkerizing solution, you can get all the other supplies for under $50. Plus the parkerizing solution is reusable, so it's pretty much a one time investment. If you can boil a pot of water, you have half the skills needed to parkerize your own parts.



How to Parkerize Motorcycle Parts
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:08 AM   #67
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I learned the hard way not to store the solution in the stainless pot. It ate through the bottom and spilled all over the place. What a mess!
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:23 AM   #68
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Default Re: Homebrew Parkerizing

Old Wrench. (remember the R). Thanks so much. I seem to be learning off JJ all the time.
I'm gonna try this out man but I like the zinc fingerprint.
The panhead jim 'spring' got me going.
So I took to lookin for the zinc on some Convict Oz link.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....ead.php?t=2787

http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/d...apons/BBC1.jpg

The way they're talkin is a bit beyond me for expert jobs on Brown Besses but man I like this process. Better than home chrome man.

And the other, sorry guys, not bike parts but the visual on the outcome is there.
This is YOUR baby Old Wrench. I'm gonna do it (one day) The young pups'll do it, in their Mumma's saucepans and I reckon more of the builders'll do it too. Goodnight.
DB

ps Play 'Soulshine' right now and go eat a peach!

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