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Old 05-13-2017, 08:01 PM   #1
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Default Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

This is my pos first basket case 70 xlch. Im putting it together as fast as i can so i can ride it see what i like and what i dont and blow it apart and build it again. Well heres how it started
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:05 PM   #2
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Then it was this
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:13 PM   #3
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Then this too this. I just sprayed the tank and fenders with a can oh black so i could really see the high and spots on them so i can sand them down and use filler to smooth them out my rear fender is pretty bent up i may have to get another. Im starting on the motor this week so i will be asking some dumb questions
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:05 PM   #4
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

This promises to be exciting. Im down to watch.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:26 PM   #5
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

It's nice to get something on wheels, however temporarily. Now you can sit on it going RUMpow, RUMpow.
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:53 AM   #6
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Release the Ranchero.

But, seriously, I'm glad you painted it. We can't have two of these things running around.

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Old 05-14-2017, 09:37 AM   #7
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Release the Ranchero.

But, seriously, I'm glad you painted it. We can't have two of these things running around.

Wow that is spot on how my bike was at least i know who to bug when i have questions now
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:55 AM   #8
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I'm in.
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:24 AM   #9
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

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Wow that is spot on how my bike was at least i know who to bug when i have questions now
I'll help where I can! Always loved CHs..damned painful addiction.
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:49 PM   #10
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Took my boy over to my uncles where my bike is to weld up some throttle linkage for my 70 f100
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:54 PM   #11
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I have a choice either run the stock style fender or run this one the stock is tweeked and they welded on the taillight housing its going to be alot of work i might trick my lil bro into doing or the fx style i have a chrome housing for the stock style one what u guys think
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:08 PM   #12
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I swooped up this makuni carb at a yard sale 3 houses down was it worth 10 bucks and is it worth rebuilding
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:09 PM   #13
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Cool, I'll be watching to see if I can learn something
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:11 PM   #14
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Quote:
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I swooped up this makuni carb at a yard sale 3 houses down was it worth 10 bucks and is it worth rebuilding
Would make a average paper weight or ash tray.
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:28 PM   #15
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I like the molded in light on the stock fender. You can get new lenses for it.
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:05 AM   #16
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Default Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

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I swooped up this makuni carb at a yard sale 3 houses down was it worth 10 bucks and is it worth rebuilding


You can buy a brand new one on Amazon for $100. VM-38-9 is the one you need for an XLCH.

What manifold do you have?
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:27 AM   #17
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I have a VM38 Mikuni out in the garage somewhere......think it's jetted for a Shovel.

What you have there is a smoothbore CR Keihin. Good carb but the largest I believe they came in was 31MM.
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:24 PM   #18
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I like the molded in light on the stock fender. You can get new lenses for it.
i have an extra lense and brass for it and i have the whole chrome bazel too i was going to run that because the molded one is bent up
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:32 PM   #19
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You can buy a brand new one on Amazon for $100. VM-38-9 is the one you need for an XLCH.

What manifold do you have?
i have a chrome lil y looking one i cropped a existing pic its crappy pic but here it is
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:44 PM   #20
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You folks are helping me out a whole lot. This weekend ill be putting trans in my 74 nova but after that im starting the motor for the bike. Ive never put one together but i built big block chevys before. I have a manual a uncle full of bike knowledge and will. And a rebuild kit for 60 over. And all the gaskets. Heads are done already
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Old 05-15-2017, 09:55 PM   #21
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I have a VM38 Mikuni out in the garage somewhere......think it's jetted for a Shovel.

What you have there is a smoothbore CR Keihin. Good carb but the largest I believe they came in was 31MM.
The carb i got at the yard sale says makuni on the side idk anything about these side draft style carbs i just got it for extra crap to hang on to i guess i have what was identified as a kehin butterfly carb i just ordered a kit for. Im trying to talk my uncle out of his newr kehin carb that seems to be popular. But ill cross the carb road when its time. First on my list is finish the body work on my tank and fenders my dam grinder burned up doing the frame so harbor frieght on friday. And to get some filler and more sand paper. I dont think itll take me long to stab a trans in my nova i pulled it in a half an hour. Then ill finish my fendered and tank up spray em with a rattle bomb wet sand then clear it. Then start the engine and trans put together. Thats the im looking forward too
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Old 05-15-2017, 10:05 PM   #22
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Here is the chrome tail light i have and heres the molded one i have the lenses
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:45 AM   #23
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Look the counter shaft right side bearing boss over for cracks. Very common and better to repair before blowing out the corner of the case.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:04 PM   #24
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Look the counter shaft right side bearing boss over for cracks. Very common and better to repair before blowing out the corner of the case.
Will good lookin out itll be the first thing i look for
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:24 PM   #25
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Excellent advice. It can be repaired but if ya don't have to even better.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:32 PM   #26
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I talked to my uncle about it he said that was the first thing he looked at and that we going to weld the speedo closed since i wont be running one yo strengthen it up.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:35 PM   #27
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Excellent advice. It can be repaired but if ya don't have to even better.
Holy shit that sux. Thanks again for the advice guys that right there would hurt worse than the old lady runnin off with with my dad hahaha
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:43 PM   #28
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Press out the main shaft race and keep your cases bolted together when you weld.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:46 PM   #29
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Just to mention do you have a factory manual for your bike yet? You really need it.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:47 PM   #30
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Press out the main shaft race and keep your cases bolted together when you weld.
Thanks again man these are the things i dont know but need to know. Is there any other areas i should look at on these old iron heads
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:52 PM   #31
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If you've been in engines and transmissions, on other bikes would best, and have the manual it is different but not that bad.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:41 AM   #32
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Trans set up takes some time to get right but spending the time is rewarded with a nice slick shifting reliable transmission. Again it's in the manual.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:50 PM   #33
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I have a old beat up manual need order a new one on friday with some parts new clutch pac and carb kit already have all gaskets and such.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:16 AM   #34
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I have a old beat up manual need order a new one on friday with some parts new clutch pac and carb kit already have all gaskets and such.
Nothing wrong with beat up factory manual as long as it's all there. You'll be beating it up some more anyway.
If you have the original clutch and still can see grooves in the frictions and those and the plates are flat, don't waste your money.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I have a old beat up manual need order a new one on friday with some parts new clutch pac and carb kit already have all gaskets and such.
Nothing wrong with beat up factory manual as long as it's all there. You'll be beating it up some more anyway.
If you have the original clutch and still can see grooves in the frictions and those and the plates are flat, don't waste your money.
Ihave the original dry clutch and a wet clutch set up the original needs that main shaft and i have all the pieces to the other later clutch just figured to change the clutch plates is it worth buying the main shaft for the old clutch or is a newer wet clutch better
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:00 PM   #36
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These are the 2 i have not sure which is which but my uncle said i could run either it was my choice that didnt matter
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:23 AM   #37
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Newer clutch with the anti chatter spacers, but it needs the newer primary cover with the clutch actuator in it. But the original is fine too.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:57 PM   #38
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

The trans on the right, is the dry clutch one. If you run it, you can still run wet plates. They just have to be for the early clutch drums. I would lay out all the motor parts, and do a visual inventory, just to see what I had, and did not have. Then, you can see what you can run, without having to dump a pile of cash in parts you don't have. You will not be welding it together, so it can be changed later, if you don't like it that way. If you basically have 70 motor parts, it would probably be easiest and cheapest to assemble what you have. The later trans you have is actually a even later model than the next in line, which changed in 72, and ran until 76. That one, is for the LH shift, which started in 77, and the trans can work, but you can not run the matching primary cover, as it is not a match for the primary cases. So, you would have to alter the shifter pawl, so the shifter shaft would clear it, and still match the exit bushing to the cam side. Of course, you could change the pawl, but that is expensive, unless you know someone that has one for sale, loose. Or gut the one on the older trans plate, and install on the newer plate, as a unit. There is a height check, that is in the service manual, when changing them. Shims needed if it does not match height measurement.

Now, I am not telling you to do it my way, but only warning you of the problems you may run into moving forward.

Not to mention, either trans, are equal, as far as performance. And even some gears and other parts do interchange.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:18 PM   #39
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Thanks bro my bike is at my uncles and there are piles of iron head parts there i bought my bike from him and he said any thing i needed was there all i have to do is put it together but.yes i need to round up all the shit and see what is what just havnt had a chance to head over to uncles house been working with no days off in site. Heres my uncles crusty ass daily rider
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:16 AM   #40
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I guess I am more in favor of keeping it more original, but that is your choice, not mine. But, from where you are starting, it would be smart to decide on original stuff, or updated stuff. Me, I prefer the old clutches and adjustment process, than the later wet clutch stuff. Of course, both have bad things, and good things. The dry system, was used by drag racers, because they will hold the power. The adjustment on the wet clutches is a little harder than the dry clutches. Pretty much, that is the main differences you will find that parts don't interchange.

I was incorrect on the pawl in my earlier comment, and it was exactly backwards. The later trans plate and final drive will work fine in the earlier bikes. It is the earlier trans plates and final drive units, that have to be altered, for the shifter shaft to clear the shifter pawl shaft, and a slot cut in on the trans plate for the shifter to go through. But, you will not have this problem, because your primary will not take that primary cover that allows the shaft to come through. I have seen people fab them, but none are available in the OEM or aftermarket world.

I have years of experience on Ironheads, and own several, not to mention tons of used parts on hand. So, if I can help, drop me a email or PM.
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:46 PM   #41
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I guess I am more in favor of keeping it more original, but that is your choice, not mine. But, from where you are starting, it would be smart to decide on original stuff, or updated stuff. Me, I prefer the old clutches and adjustment process, than the later wet clutch stuff. Of course, both have bad things, and good things. The dry system, was used by drag racers, because they will hold the power. The adjustment on the wet clutches is a little harder than the dry clutches. Pretty much, that is the main differences you will find that parts don't interchange.

I was incorrect on the pawl in my earlier comment, and it was exactly backwards. The later trans plate and final drive will work fine in the earlier bikes. It is the earlier trans plates and final drive units, that have to be altered, for the shifter shaft to clear the shifter pawl shaft, and a slot cut in on the trans plate for the shifter to go through. But, you will not have this problem, because your primary will not take that primary cover that allows the shaft to come through. I have seen people fab them, but none are available in the OEM or aftermarket world.

I have years of experience on Ironheads, and own several, not to mention tons of used parts on hand. So, if I can help, drop me a email or PM.
Bro who are you your the best of the best im pretty sure im going to need all the help i can get to get her running i really appreciate all the help. I havnt had much time off work but i did mess with some body work
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:53 PM   #42
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I guess im in favor of the stock set up too so ill buy the pieces for the dry clutch set up. I havnt had much time to work on the motor but did some body work today on the rear fender cut of the dented up molded on taillight housing so I can run a chrome one i have still have a lot of sanding to do
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Old 05-23-2017, 02:39 PM   #43
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I have a fully equipped shop, so I do things more involved than most. So, I prefer to try to run OEM stuff, and in a OEM configuration. But, for the daily rider, and the guy who does not have a lift, tons of tools, and a fully equipped shop, the best clutch to run, is the wet one. You run it, in the dry clutch drum, but you don't have to worry about leakage through the derby cover, or the bearing feed holes in the hub, leaking into the dry plates. They slip when you get oil on the dry plated. The wet ones are still better than the later wet clutchs, because they are three times as wide, like the original dry ones.

You must love that fender, to work that hard to get the welded tail light off. I guess I do the same thing sometimes, but not to often on a sportster part, that is always available at the swap meets for pennies.

You can get my email, off my page. So, if you need to contact me, drop me a email. Or, for the more involved questions not really related to the thread. Or to ask about a part. I don't sell much, but sometimes, I get soft, and let a few things go. Depends on the attitude and needs on my end, and yours.
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Old 05-24-2017, 08:12 PM   #44
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Im just trying to save money and i think its good practice for my other projects darn fender though and my bike is still at my uncles house laid out on his bench and i havnt been able to get my ass over there because of long hours at work so im messing with the fender for fun the other fender i have is pretty roached too but hey it dont have to be perfect this time around. Now you talked me into running the wet clutch again and ill keep the old style one so i can switch them later if i want.
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Old 05-24-2017, 08:22 PM   #45
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So i was drinking coffee getting ready for work and thought i bid 10 bucks on this lid not really wanting it and i won it for 20 and 10 shipping how am i going to splain this old crusty thing coming in the mail hahahaha
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Old Yesterday, 11:45 PM   #46
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Well today i was talking to a old biker that used to date my aunt and he was telling me that the weakness with old.iron heads was that if the trans wasnt done right and you hop up the motor its like a ticking time bomb so what can i do to make mine bullet proof thanks i think im going to takle the trans first so on my first days off i get im going to start on that
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Old Today, 09:35 AM   #47
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

The trans it self is almost bullet proof once set up. The problem is the case corner. That can be fixed. Best done before the catastrophic failure.
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Old Today, 10:48 AM   #48
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I have had two ironhead shift disks(? not drums) round out and get caught in second gear. Bent shift forks are apparently pretty common too. The word around here too is that ironheads have glass trannys and that's why I have wanted to do the separation for either a big twin or British transmission. But I don't own an ironhead right now.
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