Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build - Page 2 - The Jockey Journal Board

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Old 05-15-2017, 09:55 PM   #21
Timmy2times
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I have a VM38 Mikuni out in the garage somewhere......think it's jetted for a Shovel.

What you have there is a smoothbore CR Keihin. Good carb but the largest I believe they came in was 31MM.
The carb i got at the yard sale says makuni on the side idk anything about these side draft style carbs i just got it for extra crap to hang on to i guess i have what was identified as a kehin butterfly carb i just ordered a kit for. Im trying to talk my uncle out of his newr kehin carb that seems to be popular. But ill cross the carb road when its time. First on my list is finish the body work on my tank and fenders my dam grinder burned up doing the frame so harbor frieght on friday. And to get some filler and more sand paper. I dont think itll take me long to stab a trans in my nova i pulled it in a half an hour. Then ill finish my fendered and tank up spray em with a rattle bomb wet sand then clear it. Then start the engine and trans put together. Thats the im looking forward too
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Old 05-15-2017, 10:05 PM   #22
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Here is the chrome tail light i have and heres the molded one i have the lenses
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:45 AM   #23
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Look the counter shaft right side bearing boss over for cracks. Very common and better to repair before blowing out the corner of the case.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:04 PM   #24
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Look the counter shaft right side bearing boss over for cracks. Very common and better to repair before blowing out the corner of the case.
Will good lookin out itll be the first thing i look for
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:24 PM   #25
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Excellent advice. It can be repaired but if ya don't have to even better.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:32 PM   #26
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I talked to my uncle about it he said that was the first thing he looked at and that we going to weld the speedo closed since i wont be running one yo strengthen it up.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:35 PM   #27
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Excellent advice. It can be repaired but if ya don't have to even better.
Holy shit that sux. Thanks again for the advice guys that right there would hurt worse than the old lady runnin off with with my dad hahaha
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:43 PM   #28
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Press out the main shaft race and keep your cases bolted together when you weld.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:46 PM   #29
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Just to mention do you have a factory manual for your bike yet? You really need it.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:47 PM   #30
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Press out the main shaft race and keep your cases bolted together when you weld.
Thanks again man these are the things i dont know but need to know. Is there any other areas i should look at on these old iron heads
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:52 PM   #31
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

If you've been in engines and transmissions, on other bikes would best, and have the manual it is different but not that bad.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:41 AM   #32
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Trans set up takes some time to get right but spending the time is rewarded with a nice slick shifting reliable transmission. Again it's in the manual.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:50 PM   #33
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I have a old beat up manual need order a new one on friday with some parts new clutch pac and carb kit already have all gaskets and such.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:16 AM   #34
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

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I have a old beat up manual need order a new one on friday with some parts new clutch pac and carb kit already have all gaskets and such.
Nothing wrong with beat up factory manual as long as it's all there. You'll be beating it up some more anyway.
If you have the original clutch and still can see grooves in the frictions and those and the plates are flat, don't waste your money.
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmy2times View Post
I have a old beat up manual need order a new one on friday with some parts new clutch pac and carb kit already have all gaskets and such.
Nothing wrong with beat up factory manual as long as it's all there. You'll be beating it up some more anyway.
If you have the original clutch and still can see grooves in the frictions and those and the plates are flat, don't waste your money.
Ihave the original dry clutch and a wet clutch set up the original needs that main shaft and i have all the pieces to the other later clutch just figured to change the clutch plates is it worth buying the main shaft for the old clutch or is a newer wet clutch better
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:00 PM   #36
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These are the 2 i have not sure which is which but my uncle said i could run either it was my choice that didnt matter
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:23 AM   #37
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

Newer clutch with the anti chatter spacers, but it needs the newer primary cover with the clutch actuator in it. But the original is fine too.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:57 PM   #38
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

The trans on the right, is the dry clutch one. If you run it, you can still run wet plates. They just have to be for the early clutch drums. I would lay out all the motor parts, and do a visual inventory, just to see what I had, and did not have. Then, you can see what you can run, without having to dump a pile of cash in parts you don't have. You will not be welding it together, so it can be changed later, if you don't like it that way. If you basically have 70 motor parts, it would probably be easiest and cheapest to assemble what you have. The later trans you have is actually a even later model than the next in line, which changed in 72, and ran until 76. That one, is for the LH shift, which started in 77, and the trans can work, but you can not run the matching primary cover, as it is not a match for the primary cases. So, you would have to alter the shifter pawl, so the shifter shaft would clear it, and still match the exit bushing to the cam side. Of course, you could change the pawl, but that is expensive, unless you know someone that has one for sale, loose. Or gut the one on the older trans plate, and install on the newer plate, as a unit. There is a height check, that is in the service manual, when changing them. Shims needed if it does not match height measurement.

Now, I am not telling you to do it my way, but only warning you of the problems you may run into moving forward.

Not to mention, either trans, are equal, as far as performance. And even some gears and other parts do interchange.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:18 PM   #39
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Thanks bro my bike is at my uncles and there are piles of iron head parts there i bought my bike from him and he said any thing i needed was there all i have to do is put it together but.yes i need to round up all the shit and see what is what just havnt had a chance to head over to uncles house been working with no days off in site. Heres my uncles crusty ass daily rider
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Old 05-22-2017, 04:16 AM   #40
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Default Re: Timmy2times do it twice before its right 70 xlch build

I guess I am more in favor of keeping it more original, but that is your choice, not mine. But, from where you are starting, it would be smart to decide on original stuff, or updated stuff. Me, I prefer the old clutches and adjustment process, than the later wet clutch stuff. Of course, both have bad things, and good things. The dry system, was used by drag racers, because they will hold the power. The adjustment on the wet clutches is a little harder than the dry clutches. Pretty much, that is the main differences you will find that parts don't interchange.

I was incorrect on the pawl in my earlier comment, and it was exactly backwards. The later trans plate and final drive will work fine in the earlier bikes. It is the earlier trans plates and final drive units, that have to be altered, for the shifter shaft to clear the shifter pawl shaft, and a slot cut in on the trans plate for the shifter to go through. But, you will not have this problem, because your primary will not take that primary cover that allows the shaft to come through. I have seen people fab them, but none are available in the OEM or aftermarket world.

I have years of experience on Ironheads, and own several, not to mention tons of used parts on hand. So, if I can help, drop me a email or PM.
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72 Chevy C30 truck
73 Custom Shovel
72 XLH
70 XLH
69 XLH
68 XLCH *project*
66 FLH *Daily Rider*
66 Shovel/Pan/Pan
65 XLCH *project*
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51 FL *project*
42 UL*project*
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