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Old 07-29-2015, 08:29 PM   #21
ericthebeard
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Okay, back at it a bit... Still recovering from the financial hit from buying the steed and also just taking my time staring at her and letting it soak in.

But I did snag some Zombie Performance riserless bars for a sweet song.

Untitled

Mocked up with the existing controls:
Untitled

At this point I'm not going to be changing the front end for a while. I would love a narrow glide setup with a 21/18 wheel combo, but its not in the cards financially. Plus everything on her now is totally functional and in very good condition. So I'm putting my cash elsewhere and beginning project "make the wide glide and dual 16's look sexy". If Cherry (above) can make it sexy so can I.

Next up is the controls. The plan is a repop spoon front brake cable lever actuating a remote master, then to a single side disc. And switching to a rocker clutch setup with jockey shifter. Basically a "me too" setup but whatever. I'm not looking to be clever, just shape my ride.

That'll clean up the bars a TON.
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:34 PM   #22
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

To the ass end:

She currently has a shovelhead (square) rear swinger, and a GMA axle mounted disc brake.

One of these gems:


Is there anything forbidding me from switching to a round swingarm other than locating a mounting point for the brake brace? I assume the pivot bolt and rear axle is a straight across swap? And if the wheel is properly spaced for the above rear caliper, it'll stay that way on the new swinger?

Cheers.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:34 PM   #23
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

The pivot bolt is the same. The rear axle is not.The easiest way to do this is get an 3/4" diameter axle kit that fits between the axle plates on a round swing arm. The distance between the plates is different, and you will need either spacers with flats milled into them to fit the openings on the axle plates, and shorten your current axle, or a custom axle and spacer kit the right length with the flats milled onto the axle head and opposite spacer to center the axle in the axle plate openings, like the old rigid axles had. I am currently doing the same thing for a guy, and I used the V-Twin axle kit for just this purpose. the biggest modification I will have to make is welding a brake brace tab to the bottom of the swing arm.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:37 PM   #24
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Sweet, thanks for the info. Do you happen to have the VTwin part number for the axle kit needed?
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:07 PM   #25
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Its been a while, but things have been slowly moving along with the bike.

Slow and steady.

First off, Ive been making a black friday parts list for a few months now and pulled the trigger on some key bits while they were easier on the pocket book.

First off is a Pangea Speed ARC clutch pedal. Andy was nice enough to set one aside for me before they go to chrome. I want the look of this ride to be more muted, at least for the metal finish. Very little chrome. I plan on parkerizing many of the parts, this pedal included:



I'd also like to modify it al la Blackbetty's Killer Smile long bike and attach a little nubbin' for a heel perch when chutchin'.

Next up I scored a BDL primary. Probably going to keep cooped up in the tins (well vented of course) but I'm happy to be able to close off the factory auto-leaker with this one:



More mundane, got a trans plug for the speedo gear:



And grips:

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Old 12-13-2015, 06:21 PM   #26
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Lowbrow also was having a half off sale on their aluminum fenders. I had assumed that I was going to do the typical steel fender, painted in kind with the tank, but after thinking about it it seemed pretty dope to go with a polished/brushed alloy fender offset with the rest of the paint scheme. After "researching" some on other bike with this style, I also pulled the trigger on a 6" wide Manta Ray fender:



I've also finally taken off the fender struts here too. The shock bolts have a sliiiiight taper to them which made them not seat home all the way without the struts acting as a spacer, so I just threw on some washers to hold space so I can bolt it all up fully for now.

And on the bike, the plan is to rock simple mid-height shotgun style pipes, but on the left side. I got a head start on this with a portion of a rear cylinder crossover pipe... which I would expect is the most complex set of bends in the whole system.



I already lopped off the end of this pipe and the exit of this pipe isn't really headed in the right angle, but its a good start.







The general flow of the pipes hopefully will generally follow the upward angle of the primary tin top, and have a little kickout just before the shocks... and hopefully be really no wider than the shocks additionally.
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:40 PM   #27
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

My first visit to your build thread. I like it, think I'll stay tuned.

I'd like to expand on something you were talking about last July, the fork tins/headlight. Although the one in the pic isn't one, and probably lights up the trees (the green kind, with leaves.) I've thought you could probably use a V-Rod headlight in that application. And to carry the fatness from the headlight tins down to the sliders, accordion boots. In the pic below, the boots are from a BSA and compressed a little too much. They need a trim. The headlight here is a 5" unit that resembles the original, only scaled down. Needed to be set in the concave a little more. Also, you'll need panhead style tins, or reproductions. The ones from a Heritage Softail or Fatboy won't work, too long.

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Old 12-13-2015, 10:16 PM   #28
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Awesome, thanks for the complement. I hope people find this interesting. I'm going to be asking plenty of questions along the way so I'm trying to "give back" by showing off as much as I can of the build.

Regarding the tins... that's something I've waffled on over and over. The current (ever changing) plan is to not run a nacelle but possibly run cowbells. I keep trying to think of a way to make the flush light work without, as you say, only lighting up the trees... can't really without a lot of expenditure that I'd rather apply to other aspects of the build at this point. And I'm glad I didnt out and buy a softail or fatboy tin set only to find it doesn't fit!

For now I'm going to stick a smaller ~4.5" Bates-style headlight deep in the tree gap. That or the super trick wee little one Speed Dealer sells that was used on the Visionary Panhead "The Saint". Part of me likes how disjointed that would look inside of wide glide trees.
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:21 PM   #29
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Oh yeah, I also ditched the S&S Teardrop air cleaner for a Chopper Dave's unit I found on ChopperSwapper...









She's now a race bike.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:49 AM   #30
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

I like where you are going. Inmyarrogentopinion, hydraulic front ends look great. but then I come from 60's flat track.
I have one word for you to put in your memory banks.....Linkert........
Oh, and be sure to check the front cylinder exhaust spigot. That is what killed my pan....
Yeah, I should have kept it and fixed it, but first you have to be young and stupid....
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:05 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Britton View Post
I like where you are going.
Thanks man. Glad people are diggin it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Britton View Post
Inmyarrogentopinion, hydraulic front ends look great. but then I come from 60's flat track.
Me too. Besides, one of my main desires in picking up this sled was that it was the duo-glide frame. And springer front ends are just silly attached to a hydro rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Britton View Post
I have one word for you to put in your memory banks.....Linkert........
Hmmm... care to elaborate? I'm not a true-believer in the S&S but that's already on there are works well enough. What do I gain by switching over to a linkert?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Britton View Post
Oh, and be sure to check the front cylinder exhaust spigot. That is what killed my pan....
Yeah, I should have kept it and fixed it, but first you have to be young and stupid....
I checked that out when buying her, the front spigot has been repaired, re-welded a new sleeve on it. Welds look clean and even if nothing else... So there's that...
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:10 AM   #32
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

I tried a couple different carbs on my Pan with little luck until the folks at Brown's in Dallas suggested I go back to the Linkert that was originally on the engine. Found a good one, rebuilt it, and had no problems starting from then on. Just my experience, your mileage could vary.
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:11 PM   #33
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Mother what year/model are those BSA gaiter/rubber boots off of? Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:08 PM   #34
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Just trying to get ideas started for a new floorboard fwd mount, now that the shift perch it ditched in favor of the Pangea ARC clutch...

Also generally getting my metal shop skills and tools sharpened. My running philosophy is "if I simply give a fuck every step of the way, the end result will be awesome".

Doomed bit:
IMG_2899 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

The ARC in relation with the floor boards, showing the missing fwd perch position. I am also contemplating moving the floorboard inboard, but that would also require no primary cover, a non-compensating sprocket type primary and relocating the rear master cylinder on the right side...
IMG_2897 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

Marking:
IMG_2901 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

Destroying:
IMG_2905 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

Testing:
IMG_2906 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

Rough shaping:
IMG_2909 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

IMG_2911 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

Annnnd part of the way there.
IMG_2912 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

Still need to make the commitment on leaving the boards as is or re mounting them. Then the bracing and final shape will come forth out of this distilled hunk of the earth.

I know it looks like poop now. Its much better looking in my mind...
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:51 PM   #35
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Cool bike Eric. I also saw that on CL and wanted to call many times but with a baby on the way I saved myself from a long stay in the doghouse and didn't.

If you are still wanting the lower triple tree and "cow bells" I have them and will hook you up for a good deal. I'm in Stanwood.

I'll be watching.
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:54 PM   #36
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sent you a PM
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Old 12-19-2015, 05:19 PM   #37
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Haha, we'll I'll think of buying the pan as saving you from the doghouse. Its a service I'm happy to provide.

I only recently got married AFTER buying the bike.

A little brazing practice today... I'm no master craftsman, just trying to get competent with metal gluing. I'm interested to see what they look like after a little cleanup with Mr Flappy.

IMG_2919 by Eric Bott, on Flickr

IMG_2920 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
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Old 12-29-2015, 12:02 AM   #38
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Quote:
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I only recently got married AFTER buying the bike.
Haha, smart move
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Old 12-29-2015, 01:33 PM   #39
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Haha, smart move
Thanks, I also made sure to complete a few pending rifle builds, apply for a 30 cal suppressor, and upgrade the laptop while I was at it.

Back to the project...

I've been mulling this over a bit and there is a whole chain of dependencies that need to line up right, as I want to get the foot board (or pegs) places. But for that I want to have my butt position set. And for that I need a seat. And for that I need my seat pan done. And for that I need my fender mounted.

-So-

Fender mounting.

I got the Lowbrow Aluminum fender on their black friday sale. Pretty stoked on it BUT I am not sure what extra considerations I need to make for it being aluminum. The sucker is good and thick, but I don't have a good intuition on what support it needs for passengers and gear riding on the back. Does anyone have experience with these finders?

Searching around I find many people (rightfully so) making comment on how Al is pretty soft and brittle compared to steel, but not all fenders are created equal.

Lowbrow's site mentions this when using the same fender for their salt racer project:
"I wanted to make strong mounts as the .125" aluminum fender needs to support the weight of a passenger as that is where the rider sits on this purpose-built race bike."
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/tech/h...fender-part-1/

And looks to be simply bolting right to the fender, no weld in bungs or anything like that. Just through-bolted to a 3/8 domed bung:


Now, that's a hardtail. My main thoughts are to make external fender struts flowing out of the drop-seat castings, not unlinke these from Jeff Wright of CoC (though, less speed-holey likely, and I know this is a chopped up shovelhead seat casting... ):



My fender will be cut back to stop at the high-noon position if not slightly shorter, but much more landing area for an extra butt or duffle than the one above.

My main question is: what do I need to do for strength? I FEEL like cantilevered struts with maybe an internal arch between the aft-most mount points should (could?) be sufficient, just sandwich-bolted through the fender?

The next step up from there would be to weld in bungs to the fender to distribute the bolt hole loads and relieve possible cracking at that point.

The next from there would be welding in internal bracing.

These last two are problematic as I don't have much Al welding capacity in house other than buying an alloy spool for my wee MIG and just go for it. Or if its really needed I'll seek out a pro with a TIG for this simple part of the job. But is it necessary?

There's your OCD post of the day.
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Old 12-29-2015, 01:43 PM   #40
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Default Re: '55 Panhead Yet-To-Be-Named

Also, do I need Mods to update the thread name? The bike has a name now.

New cool guy thread title:
"Zodiac: 1955 Swingarm Panhead Build"
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