47 Industries. Welding and fabricating

[MIKE47]

Thanks Pete! We appreciate you checking out the work.

Tyler-Absolutely buddy.

[MIKE47]

Got this one nailed down. Race Frame Engineering supplied us with the neck, backbone and support tube on this one. Took a bit to get it shipped from Australia but man are their parts worth it.
All fit up.


On the fixture table.



All welded up.

[Topher]

Hey Mike.

Thanks again for the sweet work. Much appreciated.

C

[MIKE47]

Originally Posted by Topher

Hey Mike.

Thanks again for the sweet work. Much appreciated.

C

Thank You Chris.

Here's the flavor of the week: Shovelhead!

[MIKE47]

Diamonds are forever!

Custom stainless steel bars. Customer's design idea. Flared bungs, welded and polished handles, nice and narrow. Custom bent stainless brake line too. Yes there is another grip. I couldn't get it off the old bars by myself before the pix.

[MIKE47]

We've been working on this for a bit. '94 1200 sporty. Ledsled +2" tail section that we reworked to be 1"+ as we moved the axle slots forward 1" to be able to run the Flyrite sprotor. 39mm front end witht he trees smoothed and shined. Rear 16" wheel was rebuilt in house with new stainless spokes and the rear hub l/s flange was machined off and rechromed. We used modified cb750axle adjusters to solve the clearance issue. Front wheel is a new cheapy 21". Avon rubber front and rear. Front street rear fender held on by a custom stainless sissy bar. and a nifty little fender brace/battery hold down thingy. Troyfab's lovely little tail light back cover is rad and there's enough room in there to hide some wire and connectors. We took 3/4" out of the front of the tank and nothing in the rear. We filled the filler and rolled a bump to resemble the ford spare tire cover style fender. Tunneled the hell out of it to hide the front master cylinder. Put a new filler in it with a standpipe vent. Moved the petcock back and ribbed the flat bottom to add some rigidity. The oil bag is stainless. Started as a 5" tube. We added flat side pieces and a bunch of bungs for the fittings. Notched it to fit around the backbone. I guess the rest of the details are Biltwell bars, Hippykiller pegs and grips, redtail seat, Haifley p-pad-yet to go on, Paughco pipes, and Biltwell risers. Paint on the frame and small parts by my buddy JR. The tins are of course by the very talented Ryzart. Polish and chrome by Artistic Metal Finishing in Somerville, NJ.

I'll post pix after it gets polished up. We still have a few details to wrap up and I need to wipe all our grubby finger prints off the shiny bits but I rode it a bit already and it is fun. Off to it's new home in Brooklyn next week.

[=(adam)=]

went down to Mikes today to get my bike that he made the above bars for. craftsmanship is excellent as most of you know and good all around guys in him and Ryan. The work on the above sporty is amazing and the paint is incredible in person. Got the new bars on that he made and took it out for a wet ride before the hurricane gets here.

[HD48FL]

That Sporty came out great and Rich nailed the paint, nice work.

Nice work on those bars as well, top notch all the way.

[ckunsman89]

I just read this thread from start to finish, and I must say, Mike, you are an inspiration to me. In ten years I hope to be where you are at. I do not post on the board much anymore, because I have alienated myself from society to the confines of my day job restoring cars, and my garage building anything I can afford to get my hands on. I have one question for you though. When you do frame repairs, how do you go about making sure the neck is level in relation to the rear axle? When I hardtailed my sportster I did not take this into consideration, and the bike always had a slight drift to the left. Any info you would care to share with a young buck would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chad.

[MIKE47]

Originally Posted by ckunsman89

...... I have one question for you though. When you do frame repairs, how do you go about making sure the neck is level in relation to the rear axle? When I hardtailed my sportster I did not take this into consideration, and the bike always had a slight drift to the left. Any info you would care to share with a young buck would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chad.

Chad, Sounds like my own bike! My bike is the first frame I ever built and it was done on a stolen school cafeteria table in the dead of winter with a string and a really old level. There's no secret except measuring a lot. Our frame jig and fixtures are built from known good frames and factory blueprints. The axle plates are level as you can see in the pix. We also use blocks and shims under the frame rails at times to check those as well, but that isn't always gonna mean that the frame is straight (or bent) either. Generally you want the axle plates and neck/front end in plumb to get a straight ride. As for the neck being level we use an alignment bar with cones to find center and point to the center line of the jig table checking height and rake angle as we go. A good amount of these HD frames are pretty far off from the factory so you might be dealing with that? Sometimes the neck pointer will be a full 1/4" off from the factory! We also use a couple visual pointers in other locations to check for plumb and level. Usually we can get to 1/16 to 1/8" of dead nuts. The longer the front end you put on the more noticeable any imperfections get. Hope that helps a bit.

[ckunsman89]

Awsome. Thanks for the reply. I just read a page i found by googling "how to keep neck level to rear axle" and it explaned how to build a frame from scratch over 70 pages of pdf. I did not read it all word for word but skimmed over it for the important stuff. The article described using an alignment bar and straight line as you have mentioned. Now it all makes sense to me. Once again, your work is top notch.

[MIKE47]

These wishbone frame axle plates had been "CHOPPERIZED" somewhere back in the day. The center stand mounts and stop blocks were sawed off. We made new loops and blocks from scratch and using our axle plate jig tools we aligned and welded them up.

[MIKE47]

Maico 250 frame. We added some gussets. They were precut on a cnc and supplied by Maicos Only.

[57rigid]

Originally Posted by MIKE47

These wishbone frame axle plates had been "CHOPPERIZED" somewhere back in the day. The center stand mounts and stop blocks were sawed off. We made new loops and blocks from scratch and using our axle plate jig tools we aligned and welded them up.

Thanks again for all the work mike, wish I could have made it down while was home tompick it up but it's in good hands for now. Ian

[MIKE47]

Thank YOU Ian!!


Show Class #4 just arrived.


...And we have 1-3 back issues too!

Also stocking Dice and Greasy Kulture

[MIKE47]

Evo sportster hardtail with 2" of stretch. Custom bent from dom tubing. All Tig welded. We added the little kick in the back bone extension to get rid of the dreaded "bump" under the seat. This way the bump is under the tank and you don't see it once the bike is assembled. We do these in 4" over as well and 2" and 4" over for later Ironhead frames too.

[MIKE47]

I haven't been updating this thread as well as I should be but we have been busy here and have lots to offer you guys so let's start here:

We have a new line of hardtail sections for 86-03 Evo Sportsters. Our tails are .120" wall DOM tubing. All TIG welded in our fixtures. Our design features 1 1/4" lower rails that match the front rails of the factory frame and give an uninterupted flow to the frame. Those rails extend back to the fender area before kicking up helping to fill the dreaded empty spot between the wheel and the engine that is so prominent on these bikes. This also allows the huge factory battery to fit in there. In addition this will also allow the use of sprotors as there is more room between the top and bottom tubes and your factory caliper can be modified and can fit in between as well. Our top tubes are 1 1/8" to lighten the look a bit. We add a kick down in the back bone to ease the "seat bump" and give a more inline backbone look. Our curved seat post allows more room for your oil tank. A 5" round tank fits without the need to notch it or jam in in the corner resulting in wide gaps between parts. Axle plates are a full 1/2" thick.

Installation is 3 cuts and 3 welds with some basic measuring. No plating. no extra ugly gusseting. Once its all together and the welds are filed smooth it has the appearance of a factory rigid frame. we offer installation as well if you chose to drop or ship your frame to us.

We offer options such as chrome axle and adjuster kits with all the spacers (no more guess work-we worked it all out for you including driveline alignment), battery trays, oil bags, fender mounts, and anything else you want.
Call 908-526-8865 or email mike@47fab.com for more details

I'll post more pix and some on a roller soon

[MIKE47]

Installed on frame:



And a roller we are adding a battery tray, oil tank, seat, fender, axle and adjusters to in the works.