Well, I was holding out to do a build thread on my next personal bike to show off a few cool details we have been developing, but that keeps getting pushed back with client work. For those of you that know the "formulaic" look of our bikes, this one should be the best of the best, for whatever that is worth:
Chopped, narrowed, flat-bottomed, split 3.5g HD tanks (big filler caps)
16", 21" wheels
SHORT rigid rear section
Euro-made HD replica springer front end
Paint by Ryzart
So, here we go again..... This time the subject is a seized '58, with a titeld, numbers-matching frame and motor.
Since the motor was seized, I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and get that at least split and assessed before proceeding too far.
With the help of a hole-saw the pistons gave up their positions in the cylinders.
Oh, and I added a proper oil seal for the crank feed: I TID'd on extra material around the feed boss, then turned out the recess to fit a "unit" seal and clip.
Thought about going with the Alton gen/alt... Going to look into doing the crank alt also since I have a few hanging on the wall and more about reliability rather than "original"..
Good start, Nice
I have a question I'm running BNB Racing drive and have a similar oil seal set up to you.
I've done a couple of thousand miles on bike and now I'm wondering about breathing
did the engine breathe through here into primary?
because when i stop(After a thrash) i have maybe 2 teaspoons of oil under bike at crankcase breather(for sure some oil is misting out when running.
Also do you do anything at gearbox mainshaft bushing? (I'm using longer bronze bush)I have a weep there that flicks onto back of clutch basket i was thinking of putting an oil seal there.
thanks
There was a little breath-through to the primary, but not much. Remember that the next model up came with a seal on the drive-side case and they both have the exact same cam-driven, crank breather, window arrangement. BTW, Often overlooked is the seal quality of the timing-side case half to the generator. If it is not sound, more oil will get spat out of the crank breather tube, as well as other areas.
Cheers, Dan.
more updates. This beast was in desperate need of some love.
New Brushes, bearings, seals, condensor, and a thorough cleaning/bead-blasting on my end. Then I sent the mag out to be re-magnetized and hot-run checked, The original armature, pick ups, and slip ring tested perfect, as did the new Bright-Spark condensor. Check one of my tech threads about these IC capacitor. It is the single best thing ever made new for these K2FC mags. I have put several K2FC's back into service with these caps and just a basic cleaning and tuning.
this bike gets the pimp Euro-made HD repop front end. So, if you're thinking about one for a triumph, here's how it works...
first remove this ring from the bottom of the stem.
Chuck up the castle nut...
Face it off to the right length. Also notice the shoulder cut on the right side...
open up the hole on a dust cover, or make one from scratch.
I like them to fit nice and flush...
...A little silicon bronze to keep from over heating the thinner dust cover.
Get the right Timken bearings and adapters for the Triumph neck cups and BAM! Like a glove. but what about those unsightly threaded holes in the rear legs?
Turn up a pair of reducing bungs...
That fit in there like this...
Then turn a couple tapered, counter-bored alloy bungs, and top them with some ss socket head bolts.
Here are a couple cold-rolled axles I made for this bike and the next. Castle nuts locked down with cotter pins will give some piece of mind out on the road.
Well, the inner cover's hole for the kickstart quadrant stop was screwed. I drilled out the inner cover to the next size up and turned this new stop. good as new.
Fourth gear bush was spent, so a later "unit" fourth gear with a new bush was in order. The rest of the gears were good to go.
The camplate was trashed too so a new replacement went in with the rest.
Camplate bushing leaks. I'm not a big fan of them. This is a solution to one of the many pre unit leaky spots...
Speedo drive leaks, not a fan of those either. I turned this o-ring equipped bit to make this leak a thing of the past.
I did that so I wouldn't have to drill excess powder coating from the holes and countersunk recesses. Long term, I feel it is better for the nipples to seat directly on the alloy rim, as designed.
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