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Angry Monkey Motorcycles '58 Triumph Build "Old Man"

88K views 226 replies 67 participants last post by  vintagespeed 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I was holding out to do a build thread on my next personal bike to show off a few cool details we have been developing, but that keeps getting pushed back with client work. For those of you that know the "formulaic" look of our bikes, this one should be the best of the best, for whatever that is worth:

Chopped, narrowed, flat-bottomed, split 3.5g HD tanks (big filler caps)
16", 21" wheels
SHORT rigid rear section
Euro-made HD replica springer front end
Paint by Ryzart

So, here we go again..... This time the subject is a seized '58, with a titeld, numbers-matching frame and motor.

Since the motor was seized, I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and get that at least split and assessed before proceeding too far.

With the help of a hole-saw the pistons gave up their positions in the cylinders.





 
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#2 · (Edited)
Dan at *** Engine got the crank and rods sorted. While I was waiting, I took care of a what I could without the crank and rods.

rocker spindles cleaned and polished...


Bead blast, and rebuilt rocker boxes...


Bead-blast cases.


Since the client wants no battery, this will be an alternator bike. Here is a block off for the generator hole that I made out of 1/4" alloy.


Fresh from Dan at *** Engine: bored/honed/painted cylinders, re-bushed and weight-matched rods, and new pistons with fitted rings...


 
#3 · (Edited)
Since this bike will have a dry BNR belt drive, an oil seal had to be retro fitted to the drive-side case...



Alignment tool setting the ring...


Ready for a proper oil seal...


Head cleaned and bead blasted...


...Typical head bolt boss cracks


grind, TIG, grind, file...


Deck the head
 
#16 ·
Good start, Nice
I have a question I'm running BNB Racing drive and have a similar oil seal set up to you.
I've done a couple of thousand miles on bike and now I'm wondering about breathing
did the engine breathe through here into primary?
because when i stop(After a thrash) i have maybe 2 teaspoons of oil under bike at crankcase breather(for sure some oil is misting out when running.
Also do you do anything at gearbox mainshaft bushing? (I'm using longer bronze bush)I have a weep there that flicks onto back of clutch basket i was thinking of putting an oil seal there.
thanks
 
#18 ·
There was a little breath-through to the primary, but not much. Remember that the next model up came with a seal on the drive-side case and they both have the exact same cam-driven, crank breather, window arrangement. BTW, Often overlooked is the seal quality of the timing-side case half to the generator. If it is not sound, more oil will get spat out of the crank breather tube, as well as other areas.
Cheers, Dan.
 
#19 ·
more updates. This beast was in desperate need of some love.


New Brushes, bearings, seals, condensor, and a thorough cleaning/bead-blasting on my end. Then I sent the mag out to be re-magnetized and hot-run checked, The original armature, pick ups, and slip ring tested perfect, as did the new Bright-Spark condensor. Check one of my tech threads about these IC capacitor. It is the single best thing ever made new for these K2FC mags. I have put several K2FC's back into service with these caps and just a basic cleaning and tuning.


Next is the box...
 
#20 ·
this bike gets the pimp Euro-made HD repop front end. So, if you're thinking about one for a triumph, here's how it works...



first remove this ring from the bottom of the stem.


Chuck up the castle nut...


Face it off to the right length. Also notice the shoulder cut on the right side...


open up the hole on a dust cover, or make one from scratch.


I like them to fit nice and flush...


...A little silicon bronze to keep from over heating the thinner dust cover.


Get the right Timken bearings and adapters for the Triumph neck cups and BAM! Like a glove. but what about those unsightly threaded holes in the rear legs?


Turn up a pair of reducing bungs...


That fit in there like this...


Then turn a couple tapered, counter-bored alloy bungs, and top them with some ss socket head bolts.


Here are a couple cold-rolled axles I made for this bike and the next. Castle nuts locked down with cotter pins will give some piece of mind out on the road.
 
#27 ·
trans cases glass bead blasted...


Well, the inner cover's hole for the kickstart quadrant stop was screwed. I drilled out the inner cover to the next size up and turned this new stop. good as new.



Fourth gear bush was spent, so a later "unit" fourth gear with a new bush was in order. The rest of the gears were good to go.


The camplate was trashed too so a new replacement went in with the rest.


Camplate bushing leaks. I'm not a big fan of them. This is a solution to one of the many pre unit leaky spots...


Speedo drive leaks, not a fan of those either. I turned this o-ring equipped bit to make this leak a thing of the past.


Now it's on to the fun stuff!
 
#31 ·
Excel 21 and 16 rims back from getting drilled.


...after media blasting.


...after masking nipple countersink holes...


...back from powder coating


...back from Buchanan's Spoke, with ss spokes and nippples, and with new rubber mounted. Pic has maximum distortion on the 16 rear :D
 
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