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'62 Chop, 4th Rebuild in 42 years.....

135K views 574 replies 77 participants last post by  Cpt.Fred 
#1 · (Edited)
Did my first build on this '62 Pan in '68, it's had a couple rebuilds since, but has stayed essentially this way until now:

The frame is the original '62 frame, with my own homebrew hardtail welded on, didn't want to cut the neck, so left it stock, put on 18" over tubes on it, and dropped the back end down as low as I could and still be streetable, it handles fine and I've put many, many miles on this rig.

But I have had an old, original Denver's frame, in cherry unused condition, stashed away for a long time, can't remember, 20-30 years, stretched about 4" and with a 45 deg rake. I've been intending to move the hardware over from the present frame to the "new" frame for years now, and am finally getting to it.

Recently ran across an "old style" extended original HD springer, done right with the A-bone radius rods. Looks like about a 14" over setup. Put it on the frame and it just looks right, so I will be proceeding to transfer everything over and set it up with the "new" frame.

I'm also working on a '55 chevy, gasser style, and the bike is in the shop next to the gasser project, so I can put in time on both......


Already have had to do some small mods for the rear brake mount, clearances were needed, I'll take some pix and post 'em....

Here's the link to another thread here about this bike and it's "sister" '59 pan.
Aloha,
2Loose Willy
 
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#349 ·
My Dad and his brothers all rode too, but Dad also rode "on the job"...

His favorite ride was a Knuck he had bored and stroked, one of my brothers still has that bike....
 
#351 · (Edited)
I'll get some pix, but just wanted to quickly post this.....
The intake is wider than the intake ports on the heads...
Tried to loosen the head bolts to see if I could get more spread on the intake ports,
nawwww, still too tight, it's a function, I think, of modern thinner base gaskets and head gaskets, causing the "V" to come down, moving the heads closer together, which is what I'm seeing. Will mike the head spread and the intake width and see how much I gotta remove. Am thinking a belt sander with the right grit on it....
Aloha,
Willy

Update:
I need to do a mainland trip to help out on some family issues, so it'll be a couple weeks before I can get back on this project....
W.
 
#353 ·
Just got back home from Copper Mtn, CO, where my 12 yr old grandson placed 8th overall nationwide in the 12 yr old snowboarding events, and my 9 yr old grandson placed 6th overall nationwide in his age group freeskiing events. Wow, am I a proud grandpa or what !!!

Managed to get a little time in the shop, working on the interference fit between the intake tee and the heads....

Back to the heads and the intake, the intake tee would not go between the heads, probably because these new base and head gaskets I've installed are thinner than the originals, and being a "V" configuration, having thinner gaskets pulls the heads down and closer together...
I could stack an extra base gasket or two under each cylinder, which would push it back up and spread the heads further apart, gaining extra clearance....

Or, I could measure and remove a slight amount of metal off of the ends of the intake tee....
But......

So I pulled my trusty old calipers and took a good look at just how much interference
I had between the intake and the heads....



The intake measured 2.970"



The heads measured 2.950" at the intake ports...
So first, I'm going to try loosening the head bolts, and the top mount bolts,
and see if I can get that additional 0.020" I need to fit this intake in there....

After loosening all the appropriate bolts, and tapping the heads away from each other with a block of wood and a hammer, tried again, and it fit...



It's a snug fit, with the head bolts loose, so I slowly snugged down the head bolts,
a little at a time, starting with the inner most bolts, closest to the carb,
and kept checking the intake tee, it still was not "jammed", so kept snugging
down the head bolts, got them snugged down pretty good, not torqued yet,
and the intake tee still feels "good to go"....

Those two top mount bolts will be the last ones I tighten down....

More later....
 
#354 ·
Still might remove a slight amount from the ends of the intake tee, after I get the max. amount of clearance I can from "moving" the heads apart, just to make absolutely sure there is no "binding" of any kind between the heads and the intake tee when it is cold. As the motor warms up when running, those cylinders will grow and the gap between the intake tee and the heads will open up, that's the beauty (and the pita) of this o-ring and clamp system HD used on these panheads. But when it is cold, I want the tightest fit I can get without binding in any way....
Willy
 
#355 ·
Pulled the intake tee out and torqued down all the bolts....
Then measured it, got 2.970", same as the intake tee,
so I got my 20 thou. but still pretty tight....



I had these nice clamps, and tried to fit it all together....



Tried a bunch of ways, the clamps hit this, or that, just barely,
but wouldn't go in....



View from the right side....



Pulled it apart, and put the intake tee back in, it's a snug fit,
so think I will remove just a little bit off each end to get a better fit....



More later....
Willy
 
#356 ·
Now that I got the heads shifted away from each other
about 20 thou, I can get the intake in there, but it is too tight,
so got the mill file out and removed a little on each side
of the intake tee....


Ended up taking a total of 5 thou off, half on each side....
It left some sharp edges, so smoothed them out
with some emery cloth....


Ahhh, a perfect fit, slides right in with no slop at all...


Put the O-rings on, but do not like the clamps shown previously,
looking for the oem style clamps, have some around here somewhere....


Now back to my carb, "Indian Head" shellac was recommended to
seal the float attachment, my local hardware store has this,
I wonder if it will work ok?
 
#357 ·
These are the kind of clamps I'm looking for, might have to buy a new set if I can't find the ones I thought I had...
 
#358 ·
Yeah I have the OEM ones, they hurt if they come off tension when you're not expecting! done it a few times. I'm pretty sure they are easy enough to find! Bike looks great. I love my link.. such a good carb.
 
#360 ·
Heck of a good idea, I have 4 unused o-rings in a plastic bag, but think they are the old style stuff, will look around for the viton....
 
#364 · (Edited)
It's a bit of a "wrestling match" to get that intake, the two o-rings, and the two clamps in there, but with a couple of cold ones, I prevailed !!!

Check List:
-Install single fire ignition wires
-Find and install fuel petcock and fuel line
-Find and install throttle cable
-Adjust primary belt, and final drive chain
-Adjust mousetrap, clutch linkage and clutch pack
-Bleed front and rear hyd. brake systems
-Install air cleaner
-Check final timing for magneto
-Find and keep handy timing port plug
-Find and install crankcase drain plug
-Keep wife happy and grandkids out of trouble
 
#365 ·
Finally had a few minutes today to work on this....

I went ahead and sealed off the screw, nut, and mount
on the carb fuel float with the shallac product above I got at ACE hardware,
guess I'll find out if there is a problem with it, but I seriously doubt that....
I was advised to use 'only' the "Indian Head" brand shallac, but....

Next was timing the mag, as I had to pull the mag to loosen the
head bolts and get the intake tee to fit, now that it is all snugged down,
I rolled the front piston into compression mode and brought the flywheel
up to the "three dots"......
(More info here if you want, scroll down....)


Got it close, and hooked up my little mag style timing light....


Rotated the mag between the "not fired yet" light....


And the "fire" light, got it right on the money and tightened it down....


Mounted the carb....


And started looking at what I need to hook up the fuel...


This was taped up from painting, and when I pulled off the tape, I found this...
I can clean up the rust, no problem there,
but I do not know this thread, it is a fine thread,
OD on the threads measures 0.868"


More Later
 
#366 ·
I've just learned that this is a 22 mm fuel outlet, now to find a fuel petcock to fit it....
 
#370 ·
Yeah, I googled it and found out a bunch.
Will get one with a reserve, don't like runnin' outta gas out on the road....
 
#371 · (Edited)
Short on time, but have a few photos, so let's see if I can pull this off....



That tube in the screen allows a reserve function inside the tank at that level....
Probably about a quart, probably good for 10 miles if I milk it,
(been there, done that....)

Willy
 
#376 ·


That tube in the screen allows a reserve function inside the tank at that level....
Probably about a quart, probably good for 10 miles if I milk it,
(been there, done that....)
Willy
Beware of the above petcocks if your state has ethanol gas. The alcohol swells the rubber seal, then the seal rips when you turn the tap. The failed seal causes fuel to feed from both tubes and you will find no reserve of fuel when the carb runs dry. Been there, done that. If you don't want to be stranded, Pingle is the only petcock I've found whose seals stand up to ethanol fuel.
 
#374 ·
Had some time this am, so got these posted:

The single fire Morris ignition leads were cut to fit
and terminals were clamped on the ends...



This is a pretty cool system, there are huge capacity diodes in that large piece
in the middle of the wires that direct the spark to one or the other spark plug,
instead of firing both spark plugs as the normal HD system does.
It can do this because the magneto system reverses polarity of the spark
each time it fires, and sends fire to both spark plugs, giving wasted spark to
the cylinder that is in exhaust stroke mode....

These diodes are set up to function opposite each other, so when there is a
positive polarity originating from the magneto, it goes to only one spark plug,
and as the next spark is a negative polarity, it goes to the other spark plug.
That way only one spark plug is fired, on the compression stroke, with
a hotter spark, and no wasted spark on the cylinder with the exhaust stroke.

One side of the magneto output is grounded, and the other side
is connected to the pair of diodes...



I tied the diode unit under the fuel tank....



Most folks wouldn't even notice it up there....



If I have the wires on the wrong cylinders, I'll just swap 'em....



It's a clean looking setup....



Swapped out the mag cap for a keyed unit, so I can lock out the magneto if I need to...

I'm jones'n for my old setup with flat bars....
Pulled the bars offa the shelf, and
found a local set of used 9" risers. gonna use 'em...

 
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