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Building Pan, need cam and lifter advice

10K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  pzokes 
#1 ·
Putting my first pan engine together, not factory, but still a Panhead. Here is what I have so far:
S&S generator cases 65-69 style
STD dual plug heads,stock rockers and blocks
T&O 4.5" stroke wheels with S&S rods and new Jims shafts
Stock 74" cylinders bored .010 over
I started buying these parts here and their over the past year, I also have several of the small parts to complete the motor. I have almost made up my mind on an Andrews B cam but am looking for your suggestions on the cam and lifter choices. I know of the velva touch setups that come complete with lifters, blocks, pushrods etc, their is also Vulcan Engineering that sells a complete kit also. Do any of you guys have any other suggestions on the cam and lifters, blocks, pushrods? Engine is going in a lightweight bobber style bike. Looking for arm stretching low to mid range in the cam. Thanks in advance. Oh, would love to find a set of stainless Pan covers I could polish up also.

I
 
#2 ·
Here's the spec's on my build:
Heads totally rebuilt, re-conditioned with lead free seats, new guides, new shovelhead valves and STD specific springs. They are decked and will be CC'd
The top end has Baisley roller tip rocker arms
Big Jims, Brass push rod tubes.
Set of 4 with re-conditioned Blocks
The Pans are aluminum,polished
S&S 514 cam
Truett and Osborne 4 1/2" stroke lower end completely balanced and trued with a rebuilt, balanced set of Shovelhead rods
Original 58 panhead cylinders re-sleeved to standard bore
S&S stroker pistons
S&S billet oil pump
S&S original style intake manifold
S&S shorty E carb with a Thunderjet
Cycle electric Generator with 14 tooth gear
JIM's lifters and blocks along with Jim's adjustable push rods
Cam gear, idler gear, timer gear, ignition breaker with e-beyond 2000 quick start unit and a polished cam gear cover
84ci.
 
#5 · (Edited)
For a street engine, I think the B cam has too much duration. It is true that once you get up into the power band of the B it really pulls, you have to ask yourself how often you want to turn it that hard.

I have two pan motors with AB in them and I am very happy with their performance. My '48 has STD heads on it with a mikuni 45, the '60 has stock heads with a super E on it. Both engines are 8.5 to 1 with stock stroke. In general the extra stroke you have allows more cam, but also accelerates slower.

I built an 80 inch shovel with a B cam in it years ago (before I owned the pans) it was reccomended by the builder. His claim was it feels like you found another gear.
I removed the B cam and installed a competition cams cam with duration between the A and B, the bike was much more fun to ride. Better torque and hauled my OL much easier.

I use Jims solid lifters and vulcan pushrods
 
#6 ·
Thanks hd74 for the info. And after talking this morning with Gary at Andrews, he basically told me the same thing you did wahoo, the B cam is probably a little off for where im wanting my power. He advised me to use the A2 grind and keep the comp to 8.5-9.0:1.
 
#8 ·
Like hd74 I like the Jims lifters., been running them for years and they're great. Just remember to check the bearings in them when you start getting some real mileage on them.
 
#9 ·
For street motors I like the duration in the low 40's. There are already plenty of over cammed motors running around out there. I need to do one more side project and I'll have enough bucks to order a set of stainless rocker covers myself. I see that V-Twin offers them, the price isn't too bad.
 
#12 ·
I like low compression bikes with an appropriate cam for kicker bikes. An Andrews #2 and 7.5:1 with your set up would be a nice running bike.

The benefits are stock or OEM replacement components will live long with that and regular gas is a bonus. Depends on what the end goal is with the bike. Low compression bikes tend to live long too.
 
#18 ·
Those Leineweber cams look interesting, but the real steep lobe ramps look like they would be kinda tough on the valve train. Interesting design though, if power is more of a priority than longevity.

Regards,
Geo.
 
#20 ·
I like the Crane 296A cam. Has served me well for 90K+ miles. I have the lifter blocks, lifters and adjustable pushrods from Flo Headworks. They also have 90K+ miles on them. They are basically modified EVO lifters and lifter blocks. Makes for a bullet proof valve train.

-Craig
 
#21 ·
Oh Hell yeah! This is my 2nd 84" panhead, and Im as happy with it as the last one.
I have a 1949 Panhead with stock 74" bore and a 4 1/2" stroke S&S wheels, S&S stroker forged pistons a Sifton Cam with 412 lift and a shitload of duration ( cam is used, not sure about length of duration). Im running stock original cast aluminum lifter blocks with solid lifters and non adjustable aluminum pushrods. Basically stock (non-plumbed for outside oiling) 1963 rear head and a 1964 front head converted to inside oiling both. The heads have the original brass seats which I was able to get buy with just lapping in the valves and turning out some valve spring spacers on the lathe. I do use lead additive with each fill-up and a dash of auto trans fluid (Its a farmer thing) every 3rd fill if I remember to and Im at home. '49 distributer, 30" 1 3/4" drags with 8" baffles installed. Im running a OLD S&S Super B with a 70 mainjet and an intermediate which I cannot make out the size.
You wont have to down shift to pass traffic!
Mish
 
#23 ·
The performace descriptions for '48-'69 camshafts are usually based on a Shovelhead. A Panhead has a higher ratio rocker arm. IMO you pick the camshaft description that you like, then buy the next milder one. For hydraulic lifters, the camshaft needs a bump in the lobe to activate the hydraulic mechanism. If your running hydraulic liifters, make sure your cam is a hydraulic cam. I've had good luck with Crane lifters. Some of the milder Andrews camshafts have a soft lead in ramp, making a quieter valve train. The Leinweber has a hard lead in ramp, making the most power, but is noisier and has shorter valve train life. The Crane, and some others, have a ramp that is somewhere in between. The harder the ramps, the stronger the valve springs will have to be to follow the ramps. NEVER use aluminum valve retainers. They all eventually "pull through", destroying your top end.
 
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