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Who Makes Strong, Well Built, Rigid Frames?

16K views 92 replies 51 participants last post by  Dr. Jett 
#1 ·
I'm looking for a new rigid frame. I've had a few and I wanted some other opinions. I want a stock rake, preferablely a 4- speed.
I've had a Paughco and there cheap with poor welds.
I have a Kraft Tech and I think it's a rally good frame. It's tig welded beautifully but The fitment wasn't perfect and I want a straight backbone for a Frisco style gas tank. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
#86 ·
Issues will arise with any frame pushed pasted its design, jumping curbs usually isn't on the list. But keep in mind drilling holes to hide wiring in the wrong places can become trouble, improper frame shimming, painting motor/tranny mating surfaces, can lead to loose motor/tranny bolts causing frame cracks.

But you have to be higher than a birds dick to thank that west coast frames (which are no longer available) are poorly built. Pretty impressive actually.
 
#87 ·
Please don't think I said WCC were poorly built. I said I repaired one and heard about a few others (No, I have no proof). But I'm not alone in hearing it. It was .120 wall Dom tubing cracked right at the edge of the frame gusset. Completely around. I'm sure hard riding didn't help. If it cracked at a joint I would be suspicious of workmanship but in the middle of the tube I blame either design or owner treatment. As Ospey and I know, the owner rides like a nut. But who am I say that.
 
#91 ·
I hear ya. Don't think that, its all good.

I'm curious when he got that frame. Because the ones i've worked on and seen have had a .250 wall backbone.

The area that it cracked seems it could have been a combo of three things or just one of them. Vibration, abuse and the stock design of the CFL gusset that doesn't connect head tube and top motor mount.
 
#88 ·
One of the biggest failures any frame can experience is the lack of proper shimming of parts, not using washers under fasteners (of the correct size), and generally forcing things into place. Rear axle spacers cut exactly to length, to not overly stress the rear legs comes to mind on a proper build, and running at least 8lbs. of drag force the steering head bearings keeps the front fork from hammering the up-tubes and steering head.

Sleeving holes drilled for tank mounts and gusseting frame tabs and mounts is also a good idea to help the frame stay alive.

My $.02
 
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