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Tech. - How to use a file

40K views 53 replies 39 participants last post by  karl wolf 
#1 ·
Grinder this. Grinder that. Phooey.

Buy a good set of Nicholson files and put the grinder down if you'd like to put a really nice finish on something.

Understand that a file only cuts one way and that's usually forward. All that seesawing back and forth people do is bad and dulls your file. Clamp whatever you're working on down to something so you can apply firm pressure to it while filing. Hold the file with two hands; one on the handle and one at the other end. When filing tubing or round things slide the file across as well as forward to keep your round thing round. Files talk. If you're using one correctly it will say zzzzz, zzzzz, zzzzz like Fiscars scissors do. It will also FILE rather than gouge.

Think files are archaic? Go ask the best machinist you can find if he thinks so. He'll convince you otherwise.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I live by my files. Draw filing with a mill smooth file is the best way to keep something's shape and give a bitchin finish, I can actually feel the surface through my file and tell how good it is. The only thing better that that is surface grinding, but not everyone has access to a machine.

It's funny I see all these young apprentices going full bore with a grinder and fucking shit up. They all give me funny looks when I break out my files and blow them away.
 
#24 ·
Files are classed as "coarse," "second cut" and "smooth," from coarsest to finest. Thus, a "bastard file" is a cut in between a "coarse" and a "second cut." The word "bastard" functions here in its meaning as "irregular." So, a "bastard file" is a file that is neither "coarse" nor "second cut."
 
#25 ·
This is as good as anything I have home. From the McMaster-Carr website:

American-pattern files generally are used to remove material quickly as opposed to Swiss-pattern files which are for more precise work.

Coarseness of Cut
Bastard- Heavy removal with coarse finish. Second- Light removal with fair finish. Smooth- Finer finishing than second cut.
Single Cut- Use with light pressure for smooth finishes and to sharpen tool cutting surfaces. A single set of parallel teeth runs diagonally across the width of the file.
Double Cut- Use with heavier pressure than single-cut style for faster, rougher-finish cutting and more rapid material removal. Diagonal rows of teeth run across the width of the file in opposite directions.

Swiss-pattern files are especially useful for finishing delicate and intricate parts. These files are excellent for removing burs, shaping, enlarging small holes, and finishing narrow grooves and keyways.
Swiss-pattern files are made to measurements that are more exacting than American-pattern files. This ensures precision smoothness. Select from a variety of shapes and coarseness grades ranging from No. 00 (coarse) to No. 4 (fine).
Cut No. 00- Comparable to bastard cut in American Pattern. Has 41 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 0- Comparable to second cut in American Pattern. Has 51 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 1- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 64 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 2- Comparable to smooth cut in American Pattern. Has 79 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 3- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 97 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 4- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 117 teeth per inch.
 
#39 ·
This is as good as anything I have home. From the McMaster-Carr website:

American-pattern files generally are used to remove material quickly as opposed to Swiss-pattern files which are for more precise work.

Coarseness of Cut
Bastard- Heavy removal with coarse finish. Second- Light removal with fair finish. Smooth- Finer finishing than second cut.
Single Cut- Use with light pressure for smooth finishes and to sharpen tool cutting surfaces. A single set of parallel teeth runs diagonally across the width of the file.
Double Cut- Use with heavier pressure than single-cut style for faster, rougher-finish cutting and more rapid material removal. Diagonal rows of teeth run across the width of the file in opposite directions.

Swiss-pattern files are especially useful for finishing delicate and intricate parts. These files are excellent for removing burs, shaping, enlarging small holes, and finishing narrow grooves and keyways.
Swiss-pattern files are made to measurements that are more exacting than American-pattern files. This ensures precision smoothness. Select from a variety of shapes and coarseness grades ranging from No. 00 (coarse) to No. 4 (fine).
Cut No. 00- Comparable to bastard cut in American Pattern. Has 41 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 0- Comparable to second cut in American Pattern. Has 51 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 1- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 64 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 2- Comparable to smooth cut in American Pattern. Has 79 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 3- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 97 teeth per inch.
Cut No. 4- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 117 teeth per inch.
cool thanks
 
#26 ·
I love files.

I cringe when I see someone grind a bracket off and gouge metal...

I filed down my fork tubes last night where some fender brackets used to be.
Touched it up with a little emory cloth when I was done... and man, you'd never know the things were welded on!

Here is some file work... a bracket on our drag car. Notice the nice radius. It was done by first filing a 45 on the edges, and then splitting the difference between those angles, then again, then emory cloth.

 
#27 ·
Great post, I love the file.

RE: chalk, what do you just fill up the file surface with a stick writing chalk?
I have issues with aluminum loading up a gouging the surface or is there aluminum specific files?

Grinder this. Grinder that. Phooey.

Buy a good set of Nicholson files and put the grinder down if you'd like to put a really nice finish on something.

Understand that a file only cuts one way and that's usually forward. All that seesawing back and forth people do is bad and dulls your file. Clamp whatever you're working on down to something so you can apply firm pressure to it while filing. Hold the file with two hands; one on the handle and one at the other end. When filing tubing or round things slide the file across as well as forward to keep your round thing round. Files talk. If you're using one correctly it will say zzzzz, zzzzz, zzzzz like Fiscars scissors do. It will also FILE rather than gouge.

Think files are archaic? Go ask the best machinist you can find if he thinks so. He'll convince you otherwise.
 
#28 ·
Aluminum is softer and more "chewy" than steel, so it gums up the file pretty fast. We keep a few bars of Ivory soap around for drilling, tapping and filing aluminum, cuz it lets the tool bite but keeps it from loading up. You just drill or tap into the soap, or file the soap, and then use the tool as you normally would...always forward, light pressure, let the tool do the work.

I also like to use these deburring tools before finish filing. They save a ton of time, and can get into spots where the files are difficult to use. They work on aluminum and steel. Check 'em out at:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=12469695&PMT4NO=34697231
 
#29 ·
looks like i gots some shopping to do come tax time!

1.bar of soap
2.emery cloth
3.shitload of various files
4.deburring tools
5.a little more patience


this shit is exactly why i need to take some machine/weld/fab classes.


if this thread isn't tossed into the tech section i am going to throw a fit.
 
#30 ·
looks like i gots some shopping to do come tax time!

1.bar of soap
2.emery cloth
3.shitload of various files
4.deburring tools
5.a little more patience

this shit is exactly why i need to take some machine/weld/fab classes.

if this thread isn't tossed into the tech section i am going to throw a fit.
Dude...check out your local flea markets. Some of my first files are probably 40 years old, bought at flea markets and still use them. Keep them clean and dry and they stay sharp for years. Old tools show up all the time and the sellers usually let them go for a song.
 
#32 ·
I was just about to buy a decent set of files so I'll ask this question first.

Mill or machine files? I assume machine which was my initial thought, but all I can find locally is mill files. I would have to mail order machine files. This thread came about just in time.
 
#42 ·
I was just about to buy a decent set of files so I'll ask this question first.

Mill or machine files? I assume machine which was my initial thought, but all I can find locally is mill files. I would have to mail order machine files. This thread came about just in time.
I prefer machine or machinist's files, but I have about a zillion different kinds. Mill files are good too, but generally larger. If I had to make a recommendation, I'd say pick up a decent set of machinist's files and a small set of Swiss files. That'll cover most of the bases.

Everything you ever wanted to know about files:

http://www.fedfile.com/file_terminology.html

Once you know what you're looking for, hit the flea market and look for some old, American or European made tools. Be aware that there are plenty of cheaply made brand new tools out there.

Oilburner made the point about storage, and he's right. Nothing will screw up your files faster than banging around with other files. I make sleeves out of duct tape for my good files and chisels. Put a 1 1/2 inch strip inside a 2 inch strip, sticky side to sticky side and fold it in half to make the sheath. Takes a minute, costs a few pennies and lasts for years.
 
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