Buy a good set of Nicholson files and put the grinder down if you'd like to put a really nice finish on something.
Understand that a file only cuts one way and that's usually forward. All that seesawing back and forth people do is bad and dulls your file. Clamp whatever you're working on down to something so you can apply firm pressure to it while filing. Hold the file with two hands; one on the handle and one at the other end. When filing tubing or round things slide the file across as well as forward to keep your round thing round. Files talk. If you're using one correctly it will say zzzzz, zzzzz, zzzzz like Fiscars scissors do. It will also FILE rather than gouge.
Think files are archaic? Go ask the best machinist you can find if he thinks so. He'll convince you otherwise.
I live by my files. Draw filing with a mill smooth file is the best way to keep something's shape and give a bitchin finish, I can actually feel the surface through my file and tell how good it is. The only thing better that that is surface grinding, but not everyone has access to a machine.
It's funny I see all these young apprentices going full bore with a grinder and fucking shit up. They all give me funny looks when I break out my files and blow them away.
100% back this.
I took down the rib weld on my fender w/ a file and it came out dialed.
The control you get with a file is unreal.
I like to be able to control the amount of material removed w/ out looking down and going... oh, shit.
Big up to a good set of files and taking the time to use them.
I decked my '66 BSA cases last week with some Dykem and a nice chalked coarse file. . . perfectly fucking flat, and better yet, SQUARE with the crank axis.
Took WAY less time than making a fixture for the Bport.
i only have a couple shitty old files i got at a yard sale for a buck. can someone post a link to a "set" that would be ideal for a backyard metal masher like me?
having a proper handle on the file is huge help also, not trying to hang on to the tang...
can anyone list the uses for the different files, i.e. mill, bastard, vixen, etc...
File in one direction when working with steel and back and forth when working with aluminum. It will clean out the aluminum on the back stroke. Especially when using a fine file.
Just used a small fine tooth file for setting ring gap, pretty essential unless you have a high dollar machine that does it for you. Then you're just lame, and I'm jealous.
I've always wondered where the term bastard file came from.
Files are classed as "coarse," "second cut" and "smooth," from coarsest to finest. Thus, a "bastard file" is a cut in between a "coarse" and a "second cut." The word "bastard" functions here in its meaning as "irregular." So, a "bastard file" is a file that is neither "coarse" nor "second cut."
This is as good as anything I have home. From the McMaster-Carr website:
American-pattern files generally are used to remove material quickly as opposed to Swiss-pattern files which are for more precise work.
Coarseness of Cut
Bastard- Heavy removal with coarse finish. Second- Light removal with fair finish. Smooth- Finer finishing than second cut.
Single Cut- Use with light pressure for smooth finishes and to sharpen tool cutting surfaces. A single set of parallel teeth runs diagonally across the width of the file.
Double Cut- Use with heavier pressure than single-cut style for faster, rougher-finish cutting and more rapid material removal. Diagonal rows of teeth run across the width of the file in opposite directions.
Swiss-pattern files are especially useful for finishing delicate and intricate parts. These files are excellent for removing burs, shaping, enlarging small holes, and finishing narrow grooves and keyways.
Swiss-pattern files are made to measurements that are more exacting than American-pattern files. This ensures precision smoothness. Select from a variety of shapes and coarseness grades ranging from No. 00 (coarse) to No. 4 (fine).
Cut No. 00- Comparable to bastard cut in American Pattern. Has 41 teeth per inch. Cut No. 0- Comparable to second cut in American Pattern. Has 51 teeth per inch. Cut No. 1- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 64 teeth per inch. Cut No. 2- Comparable to smooth cut in American Pattern. Has 79 teeth per inch. Cut No. 3- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 97 teeth per inch. Cut No. 4- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 117 teeth per inch.
This is as good as anything I have home. From the McMaster-Carr website:
American-pattern files generally are used to remove material quickly as opposed to Swiss-pattern files which are for more precise work.
Coarseness of Cut
Bastard- Heavy removal with coarse finish. Second- Light removal with fair finish. Smooth- Finer finishing than second cut.
Single Cut- Use with light pressure for smooth finishes and to sharpen tool cutting surfaces. A single set of parallel teeth runs diagonally across the width of the file.
Double Cut- Use with heavier pressure than single-cut style for faster, rougher-finish cutting and more rapid material removal. Diagonal rows of teeth run across the width of the file in opposite directions.
Swiss-pattern files are especially useful for finishing delicate and intricate parts. These files are excellent for removing burs, shaping, enlarging small holes, and finishing narrow grooves and keyways.
Swiss-pattern files are made to measurements that are more exacting than American-pattern files. This ensures precision smoothness. Select from a variety of shapes and coarseness grades ranging from No. 00 (coarse) to No. 4 (fine).
Cut No. 00- Comparable to bastard cut in American Pattern. Has 41 teeth per inch. Cut No. 0- Comparable to second cut in American Pattern. Has 51 teeth per inch. Cut No. 1- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 64 teeth per inch. Cut No. 2- Comparable to smooth cut in American Pattern. Has 79 teeth per inch. Cut No. 3- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 97 teeth per inch. Cut No. 4- No comparable cut in American Pattern. Has 117 teeth per inch.
I cringe when I see someone grind a bracket off and gouge metal...
I filed down my fork tubes last night where some fender brackets used to be.
Touched it up with a little emory cloth when I was done... and man, you'd never know the things were welded on!
Here is some file work... a bracket on our drag car. Notice the nice radius. It was done by first filing a 45 on the edges, and then splitting the difference between those angles, then again, then emory cloth.
RE: chalk, what do you just fill up the file surface with a stick writing chalk?
I have issues with aluminum loading up a gouging the surface or is there aluminum specific files?
Buy a good set of Nicholson files and put the grinder down if you'd like to put a really nice finish on something.
Understand that a file only cuts one way and that's usually forward. All that seesawing back and forth people do is bad and dulls your file. Clamp whatever you're working on down to something so you can apply firm pressure to it while filing. Hold the file with two hands; one on the handle and one at the other end. When filing tubing or round things slide the file across as well as forward to keep your round thing round. Files talk. If you're using one correctly it will say zzzzz, zzzzz, zzzzz like Fiscars scissors do. It will also FILE rather than gouge.
Think files are archaic? Go ask the best machinist you can find if he thinks so. He'll convince you otherwise.
Aluminum is softer and more "chewy" than steel, so it gums up the file pretty fast. We keep a few bars of Ivory soap around for drilling, tapping and filing aluminum, cuz it lets the tool bite but keeps it from loading up. You just drill or tap into the soap, or file the soap, and then use the tool as you normally would...always forward, light pressure, let the tool do the work.
I also like to use these deburring tools before finish filing. They save a ton of time, and can get into spots where the files are difficult to use. They work on aluminum and steel. Check 'em out at:
Dude...check out your local flea markets. Some of my first files are probably 40 years old, bought at flea markets and still use them. Keep them clean and dry and they stay sharp for years. Old tools show up all the time and the sellers usually let them go for a song.
I was just about to buy a decent set of files so I'll ask this question first.
Mill or machine files? I assume machine which was my initial thought, but all I can find locally is mill files. I would have to mail order machine files. This thread came about just in time.
I was just about to buy a decent set of files so I'll ask this question first.
Mill or machine files? I assume machine which was my initial thought, but all I can find locally is mill files. I would have to mail order machine files. This thread came about just in time.
I prefer machine or machinist's files, but I have about a zillion different kinds. Mill files are good too, but generally larger. If I had to make a recommendation, I'd say pick up a decent set of machinist's files and a small set of Swiss files. That'll cover most of the bases.
Once you know what you're looking for, hit the flea market and look for some old, American or European made tools. Be aware that there are plenty of cheaply made brand new tools out there.
Oilburner made the point about storage, and he's right. Nothing will screw up your files faster than banging around with other files. I make sleeves out of duct tape for my good files and chisels. Put a 1 1/2 inch strip inside a 2 inch strip, sticky side to sticky side and fold it in half to make the sheath. Takes a minute, costs a few pennies and lasts for years.
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