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Nappy
08-09-2005, 12:44 PM
Well, I'm no expert but I've been thru this twice now and found out a lot of information along the way, so I guess I'll throw this out as a starting point for anyone wanting to hardtail a bike. Obviously if you have a Triumph the easy way is to buy a bolt-on, so I guess I should say that this is for anyone wanting to hardtail a Japanese bike.

Ingredients-
1 cheap XS650. Can substitute another bike.
A Grinder saftey glasses, and an assload of cutoff discs. The grinder will be your new best friend.
1 Good Welder or substitute a cheap welder to tack stuff together and a buddy that can do your finish welding
1 Tubing Bender (on sale now at HF for $70) or a buddy with a bender or two trees that are growing close together or anything else that will work to bend tubing.
Axle Plates- you can use the stock ones, buy a set at http://www.cyclexchange.net/ or if your welding buddy also has a plasma cutter (thanks, Clark!) make your own.
Tubing- 4 sections, each 4 or 5' long. I used probably 7/8"od that I got at a scrap yard. My buddy got 1" at Lowes (for probably 3X the price). Obviously don't use cheap thin shit like electrical conduit or something. And breathing Galvanized smoke isn't so cool, so avoid that.

Step 1- Cut it.
Strip that bitch down to the nekkid frame. But as you do, get some ziplock bags and label shit like you're at some sort of archelogical dig. It helps things go back together. Set up an Ebay box for stuff you know you're not gonna need. Once the frame is bare (you can leave the front and rear on), start cutting (photo #1). EXCEPT for the backbone, cut pretty much everything above the swingarm off. You can leave the swingarm attached, but basically you should end up with what's shown in photo #2.

Step 2- Stretch?
If you're keeping the stock wheelbase, skip this step. If you're going to stretch it or use axle plates other than the stock ones, you'll need to unbolt and remove the swingarm. Here's the plagurism portion of the Tech- I swiped photo 3 from an article by Lunatic on the Milk Barn board called 'How to Chop a Jap Bike'. Here's the link, it's a good tech piece...
http://www.network54.com/Forum/message?forumid=152868&messageid=1062039794
With the swingarm removed, cut across both sides evenly (a chopsaw works much better than a grinder here. Add metal evenly in the amount of stretch you want, weld it up, and put the swingarm back on.

Step 3- The Top Half.
Now with the wheels on mock up your bike to get the stance right. Either tack the swingarm or block up the frame well at the height you want. Now bend 2 pieces of tubing evenly and build the top of your hardtail by connecting the top of the backbone with the top of the axle plate.
I'm going to plagurize another time for photo #4 (I didn't take photos here on my build) this pic is from a guy named frogboy on the XS650-Garage board.
That's what ya need to do. Looks easy so far, doesn't it?

Step 4- Jig Thingys.
I built some cheezy little jig out of scrap metal to keep the bottom motor mounts from springing. I'll upload a photo of it, but don't make fun of my popcorn welds, I've gotten a little better since then. I also cut a piece of tubing the width of the rear wheel assembly. I slid out the rear wheel and put the axle thru this piece to keep me from doing something stupid like cutting thru my tire.

Step 5- The Ugly Half.
Now bend the two bottom tubing pieces, connecting the lower tubes to the bottom of the axle plates. The lower frame tubes get cut as you can see in the 'jig' photo. It's probably safest to do it one side at a time. Tack one side up then cut the other. This should keep your axle plates squared up. Eventually you'll have to cut off the bottom of the backbone, this is where having the jig is important so you don't spring the frame, which will make it ugly to get your motor re-mounted. After you get both sides connected, you'll have to bend a piece to connect the bottom of the backbone to the sides. Bend that puppy and tack it in there.

Step 6- Make it sturdy, make sure all's square.
Since I was only tacking my frame together for finish welding by a professional (Clark- are you professional?) this is the point where I made sure things were square and then sent it off for finish weld. If you're a decent welder, you can skip this step and take out the jig.

Step 7- Reassembly (not final).
Now start putting things back on it. You'll have to make up exhaust mounts, battery mounts, light, fender, and seat mounts, etc. so don't go sending the frame out for powdercoat quite yet. Plan out your controls, all that other fun crap. This is where I'm at on the 2 chops I'm building right now. Ideally someday there's such a thing as a teardown for final paint and assembly but I wouldn't know.

Again, I'm not professing to be some sort of expert. If the real bike builders have stuff to throw in here, it's certainly welcomed as I'm sure I forgot stuff or did some things the hard way. This is mostly stuff I found in tech pieces and just hacked thru myself. You can do it too, it's not that difficult.

Another option would be to just do steps 1 thru 3 and weld the swingarm in place, keeping the stock bottom back end. I thought about doing this, but it seemed a little cheezy after being into it that far already.

Happy Building-
~ Rob Napp 'Nappy'

Antibilly
08-09-2005, 12:50 PM
Great JOB!!! Man is this the first Tech of the new board!!!

Nappy
08-09-2005, 12:56 PM
Already I thought of something I'd forgotten...
Attaching the bottom tubing to the frame-
In order to add structural integrity here, you might have some better ideas than mine, but IMO one BAD idea is just butt-welding the two pieces of tubing together.

It's not so bad if one piece fits inside of the other and you can get a bit of overlap that way, but when the frame and your new hardtail are the same diameter, you should probably do a little more.

I guess the options are finding a smaller piece of tubing that fits inside of both tubes tightly and welding that up or sleeving it on the outside. I ended up making a top and a bottom sleeve out of a slightly bigger piece of tubing and getting that welded over the butt-welded pieces. It seems solid and was pretty easy to do.

Again, I'm sure I probably forgot other stuff too.

Nappy
08-09-2005, 01:10 PM
This one's pretty obvious, but when you're figuring out your bike's stance, remember that rear tires come in different heights and build appropriately. We mocked my buddy's bike up with my taller tire. Now that it's built, his sits kinda too low in the back. Oops.
Thinking off raking his as I did mine, but afraid that might make the whole bike too low. A taller tire would fix things, I suppose.

Bottom line is I spent a fair amount of time sitting looking at my frame between steps trying to get things to work out the way I'd pictured so as anxious as you get when it's coming together, don't rush things or you won't be happy with the final product.

BrianPettit
08-09-2005, 02:00 PM
This is AWESOME Nappy. Thanks. I will help my upcoming project. You also reminded me to get some new rubber and some magnetic protractors.

whizzerick
08-09-2005, 02:12 PM
man, that's gonna look great!

Cant wait for the rake tech.

mikey1610
08-09-2005, 07:54 PM
You bike looks killer. What year is it? And how much did you rake it?

BrianPettit
08-10-2005, 10:28 AM
Can someone please push this one into the Tech Archives? (http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5)

Richie
08-10-2005, 11:46 AM
Great job Nappy!

Thanks for posting this.
Any tech post using the word "thingy" is alright with me!
:D

BrianPettit
08-11-2005, 01:44 PM
Bumpo for the Archives...

BrianPettit
08-24-2005, 12:52 PM
Bump for Atch...

XCabbieS
08-24-2005, 02:08 PM
One other way to do this, is just to tack weld the new axle plates to the rear of the old ones. This gives you a few extra inches of stretch right off the bat, and everything stays nice nice as far as alignment goes. Then do your top tubes, then the bottom. Once they are in place, cut out the swingarm mounting points.. Its a little harder to get the bottom looking as good as Nappy's, but it does work well.. We didnt slug mine together where the lower cradle meets the new rear of the tail, but instead welded the seam all the way around and then welded a gusset "sleeve" around the joint..Should be plenty strong, I hope..Im going to keep my eyes on it for sure, but I have definately seen worse ideas..

Just another method..
Xcabbie

RedNeckBandit
08-24-2005, 08:28 PM
Awesome! I need to do that to this if I can't sell it.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/TopEndSpeedShop/Our%20Cars/CM400A001.jpg (http://photobucket.com/albums/b136/TopEndSpeedShop/Our%20Cars/?)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/TopEndSpeedShop/Our%20Cars/400ingarage.jpg (http://photobucket.com/albums/b136/TopEndSpeedShop/Our%20Cars/?)

bishop pdog
12-13-2006, 11:03 PM
great job . I hope the house wasnt rented otherwise you just lost you security deposit . my question is after you replaced the linoleum did you save any money. I just showed these pics to my old lady and got out of trouble for rebuilding a motor on the living room coffee table. You have to admire someone who does what they have to do no matter where they have to do it . kudos

Bonez
12-24-2006, 01:23 PM
nice fucking job

Homebrew
12-28-2006, 09:54 AM
Found this today on The Horse web site basically the same idea.
http://www.ironcross.net/Chopping%20a%20japbike.htm